truck cranks but wotn start... Cam sensor????.. or what else??

[kamaleon]

Hey guys... i just got a 4" inch exhaust put in yesterday... soon after that a 'service engine soon' came up.. didnt pay much attention...

later that day i stoped at car place to get a read out on the computer, nothing camer up but the truck refused to start again.. It cranked but just wouldnt start.

TWO things i noticed:
1) The "wait" light didnt came up
2) Tach was not registering a thing..

SO, i though that most likely it was the cam sensor... to day i replaced it with the blue international one..

Same exact result as before... only cranks, no wait light nor tach movement..


Any other ideas?? anyone???

 

[whatabudro]

Go somewhere that has a real code reader. If you set an SES there are codes present. Not all code readers will work with our trucks.

 

[kamaleon]

checked all fuses, cab & engien bay.. #16 in engine bay is blown.. going out a few mins to get a few 20A fuses just in case..

whats wired to fuse #16?


edit:
Ill take it to other place once it starts..

 

[Tail_Gunner]

If you turn the key to on, but not crank it, the SES light should normally come on and then go out. If it stays on, then there is something amiss that a code reader should reveal.

You would then need to use a code reader that will read enhanced Ford codes. The codes for a Powerstroke diesel are not part of the regular OBD II codes. Snap-On, AutoEnginuity are just a couple of code readers/scanners that will read enhaced codes.

I believe the "wait to start" light is an output of the PCM as opposed to the glow plug relay. If the W.T.S. light isn't coming on, it's likely because for some reason the PCM isn't turning it on.

I think what I'd try first is to disconnect the batteries for about 10 minutes or so. Doing so will reset the PCM. Also ensure that the battery connections are clean, free of corrosion and tight. Bad cable connections have caused a long list of wierd symptoms.

on edit: I remember someone saying that the fuel filter bowl heater element and the PCM get power from the same fuse. If you find a blown fuse and the replacement blows also, try unplugging the fuel filter bowl heater element plug from the outside of the housing. If a blown/ shorted heater element is blowing the fuse, that'll remove power from the PCM too. Unplugging the element will isolate the short and prevent that fuse from blowing, allowing the PCM to function and truck to start.

 

[kamaleon]

just changed teh #16 fuse and nothing changed..

unpluged the diesel heater element... nothing changed..

Opened the fuel filter.. there is fuel there alright, when i put the cap back there was more fuel than when i took it out.

I unpluges teh batteries to resent the computer and they are beign charged since they got weaker after every failed crank..

 

[Tail_Gunner]

Is the SES light coming on at all when you turm the key on?

 

[kamaleon]

oil level is a tad lower than teh full mark due to the incline..

when i turn the key i dont hear the pump come on..

In two ocations i heard what to me seems like an air pump very close the top/passanger fender..


Under the battery (driver side) there are two sounds about 3 or so seconds after the key is turned in the ON position.. bubblign air and then what it osunds to me a relay/solenoid that goes on and then off (one sicle)..

The withces decided to hunt my truck....

edit: the SES light does come on when i turn the key and then it turn off... that seems normal..

 

[JLDickmon]

It's a guess, but if the tach isn't working, it may have a bad crank position sensor.

You'd need to read the serial data to be sure...

 

[Tail_Gunner]

when i turn the key i dont hear the pump come on.. ..

You should hear the fuel pump come on for approx 20 secs every time you turn the key to on.

In two ocations i heard what to me seems like an air pump very close the top/passanger fender....

That's normal. What you're hearing is the electric vacume pump come on when you turn the key to on. It won't come on every time because it has a vacume sensing switch. The pump fuctions only when vacume gets low.

Under the battery (driver side) there are two sounds about 3 or so seconds after the key is turned in the ON position.. bubblign air and then what it osunds to me a relay/solenoid that goes on and then off (one sicle)..

Nothing comes to mind about that one....

edit: the SES light does come on when i turn the key and then it turn off... that seems normal..

Indeed it is normal, this is a good thing.

 

[whatabudro]

Bubbling air sound under drivers battery

Have you checked the batteries? It may be the battery itself bubbling. If you have a bad one then charging it wont cut it. Replace it, AND the other battery at the same time. The old battery will drag down and wear out the new one if you don't.

Try jump starting the truck.