no power at cold starts ...

TEXF350

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hey well i got problem .. i just kinda want some other people info on ...at cold it starts ...idles RUFF ...then i let warm up a min then drive .. then .. no power sounds like missing and no really loud thumping or any thing ... but i do notice some sounds at idle that is really fast rattle but sounds liek its coming form my dash ...:dunno but im thinking that i have a bad injector ..have not done the test neather ... and have ...engine lite ... but i think thats my (icp )... so if any one could have any info of what the think this is ... please let me knwo thatnks ...
 

KRISTOLSON

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how cold is "cold"? My 05 6.0 does just the same thing, has always done it. I just let it warm up (2mins or so) and it is fine. It only does it now when it is around zero or colder, but when I had 15w-40 in it, it would do it all the way up to 30 or 40 degrees. Also, it seems like every interor panel on mine ratttles when it is cold out. my dad's 04 250 gas in the same way.
 

TEXF350

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well thats what i use and its like 30 or 40 ...too...and once it warms up its fine really ...and when im driving it cold before the thermostates open liek i was late for work today ... it will fall on its face a littel bit and like rattle to get up to speed like 50 or 60 ... it never done just got worried abouit it though ... thanks ...
 

TEXF350

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(My f350 7.3 has had a cold skip for sometime now. Way back when it only skipped after first starting it when the temp was below 45. Now it skips if it has been setting for 10 hours or so and the temp is below about 75. Below about 30 it won't start at all. No smoke during cranking. No smoke after start. If I hit the road and mash on it about half throttle is like you flipped a switch and all 8 come to life and it is happy the rest of the day. Here while back it had set for several days and it was about 40 out. It started right up but was only running on about 4 cylinders. Mashing the throttle had little to no effect, just a rough idle. After a few minutes it would finally pull off. Got out to the dirt road, mashed on it, it coughed and pooted till it finally reached 1500 RPM and the switch flipped. Came to life and ran like a scalded cat. If I plug it in, no skip, starts and runs fine. It set for a week, went to it to use it in 75 degree day, started fine and was only missing on 1 cylinder. If I let it idle it takes about 10 minutes for the skip to go away.)




this is whats its doing to the T ... so... well he corrected the probelm with injectors ... so ... i think what i have to do is get a infa red gun and check each cyclender ...i think BIG problem is the injectors but maby liek cold oil would make it do it too or teh poppet valve that controel the oil flow to the injector maby it get stuck with cold oil ..this IS MY FIRST BIG PROBLEM OUT OF this truck and had since day off the lot ...ill post fromw hat i find out ... seems to be a problem with trucks about the 125 to 140 mile range ... k thinks you guys ..
 

big bear

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shell rotella t

i heard a deisel mec. tell a customer that he should remove the rotella from his 7.3 and go with dello 400, ford pwd oil from mortorcraft or castroll gtx 15w-40. i notice that when i put shell rotell in my 7.3, it started with a loud clacky-clack-clack. well i listen to the noise as long as i could before i finally took the rottela out and replace it with castroll gtx 15w-40. right away it got real quite, ran smoother, started up real easy and idle a lot smoother, warm up quicker and shifted a whole lot better. over all performance was half again more better than it was with the rottela. needless to say, i'm a happy camper:notworthy:hail so uall don.t have to take my word for it, just try it urself and u will notice the difference right away.:sweet
 

dachshund

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Tex, I'm 99% sure your problem is your injectors are wore out. I had very similar problems. I had a #8 miss on a cold start even with a warm ambient temperature and it wouldn't start firing for about 8 miles of driving at 55mph or 15-20 minutes of idling. Also a couple other cylinders were not contributing like they should on a cold engine.

Then this winter when it would reach 40F or below it would not start. Also no smoke during cranking or after starting ever. It also had zero power when it was below 40F or so till she warmed up for a few minutes. When I say zero power, I mean it would not even move off idle.

I have ran Royal Purple oil and a by pass filter since 90,000 miles. I don't think my injectors would have lasted as long with out those two. It will be interesting to see how long these injectors will go now using the same oil and filter setup since new.

I changed the injectors and glow plugs(while I was in there) and now it has started at -15F without being plugged in(15W40 oil) and this is with 470,000 miles on her. And yes she smoked a little but what diesel wouldn't at that temp.

I should mention I did have a code "P1273 High to Low Side Open - Cylinder #3" which turned the SES light on. I'm fairly sure it was a bad solenoid but changed the VCH anyway. I had over 400K on my injectors and they no longer ticked. I have no reason to believe the bad solenoid had anything to do with the starting issue though.

I just noticed you also have the SES light. I would definitely find out what the code or codes are before digging in to her. I love my AutoEnginuity. You can do tons more than just retrieve codes including a cylinder contribution test, injector buzz etc.
 
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KRISTOLSON

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I was thinking about the problem you are having... have you checked the ebpv (exhaust back pressure valve)? it is on the exhaust output side of the turbo. Anyway, when the temp is cold this will close to help with cold weather warmup. It will close in a cold start and open when the engine warms up. It is what causes the limited power until the engine reaches operating temp, but if it is sticking or not functioning properly it might be what is causing your power troubles.
 

dachshund

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His sig notes that he deleted it. At least I assume the "ebv delete" means that.
 
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TEXF350

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well guys ... i got to do a buzz test ont hem .. but i had all injectors pass while hot ... then i got to do some on while it was cold the next day and had 2 fail ... so .. is that the injector or the poppet valve that allow oil to the injectors ... :dunno and all the cyclenders ... have the same temp with a infra red gun there about 10oF off ... the 2 that failed whiel cold then after thermostat opened .. they passed and as hot .. as the other ones ..
 

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