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6.0 running rough, no throttle, no hot start
- Thread starter 04gold60
- Start date
Cool I will look into them, I am gonna go have my batteries, alternator and starter tested, might as well have them all tested with the strain I have put on themYou can always have a logic board failure in the FICM, and that is what it looks like to me. FICMrepair.com can test it. IIRC it is $75. They are honest and won't sell you on repairs that aren't needed.
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Well I got the batteries and starter and alternator tested, all good, starts fine for having the oil system open, now I put it in drive and I can floor it and it only goes up to 1100 rpms. Got a fuel pressure tester and I am in the process of making an adapter to check that.
I am leaning towards it being the FICM but I might as well check the fuel pressure and make sure, might get lucky and need to replace all the gaskets on the secondary fuel bowl and fix the problem but I am not holding my breath. I have a feeling I might need to replace the gaskets and still have a FICM issue
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I am leaning towards it being the FICM but I might as well check the fuel pressure and make sure, might get lucky and need to replace all the gaskets on the secondary fuel bowl and fix the problem but I am not holding my breath. I have a feeling I might need to replace the gaskets and still have a FICM issue
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So an update now:
I hooked up a fuel pressure tester and checked my fuel pressure key on engine off and it was about 65 psi and then I had my wife start the truck and it cycled up to 70-75 psi and then it went down to about 55-60. So then I had my wife put the truck in drive and then hold her foot on the brake and press on the gas and she had it all the way to the floor and the pressure dropped to 50 psi and essentially stayed there even back in park and I had her bring it up to 2k rpms and it stayed at 50 psi. So I had her turn it off and then bled the pressure out which had already dropped to about 10 psi almost immediately after turning the key off.
Went to restart it and turned the key on and the pressure was reading 0. Pump was working, opened the cap on the secondary fuel filter and it would fill with fuel but also bubbled and had bubbles in that line. I feel stumped.
Also you can hear an air leaking sound coming from the fuel bowl when the pump is running. Wondering if I have two issues, gonna try and replace gaskets on the fuel bowl and the hfcm, thinking about possibly dropping the tank and checking the pickup screen and etc.
Any other ideas?
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I hooked up a fuel pressure tester and checked my fuel pressure key on engine off and it was about 65 psi and then I had my wife start the truck and it cycled up to 70-75 psi and then it went down to about 55-60. So then I had my wife put the truck in drive and then hold her foot on the brake and press on the gas and she had it all the way to the floor and the pressure dropped to 50 psi and essentially stayed there even back in park and I had her bring it up to 2k rpms and it stayed at 50 psi. So I had her turn it off and then bled the pressure out which had already dropped to about 10 psi almost immediately after turning the key off.
Went to restart it and turned the key on and the pressure was reading 0. Pump was working, opened the cap on the secondary fuel filter and it would fill with fuel but also bubbled and had bubbles in that line. I feel stumped.
Also you can hear an air leaking sound coming from the fuel bowl when the pump is running. Wondering if I have two issues, gonna try and replace gaskets on the fuel bowl and the hfcm, thinking about possibly dropping the tank and checking the pickup screen and etc.
Any other ideas?
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Fixing the air in the fuel is the first priority for sure. Sometimes the filter o-rings are the culprit, sometimes it is the WIF plug o-ring, and sometimes the fuel pump itself. Those would be my first choice in troubleshooting. If your fuel level in the tank is above 1/4, then it would be unlikely for the issue to be there IMO.
So I got the air out of the line, had good pressure, started it and ran it.Fixing the air in the fuel is the first priority for sure. Sometimes the filter o-rings are the culprit, sometimes it is the WIF plug o-ring, and sometimes the fuel pump itself. Those would be my first choice in troubleshooting. If your fuel level in the tank is above 1/4, then it would be unlikely for the issue to be there IMO.
Now updates since it has apparently been a month (stupid tapatalk app)
I found out apparently I had incorrectly torqued my injectors and combustion gas was blowing by, failed the bubble test, got a new kit for all the injectors and replaced the gaskets and cleaned the injector cups, all back together and got a code for cyl 3 contribution again and running rough. Pulled number 3 and the tip was spotless while the others were dirty, and swapped it with number 1 in hopes to see if that injector is bad and yesterday I got it started it was hard starting and then black smoke and some white and it was rough throughout the rpms and now today trying to start it won't and puffs black smoke.
I think I am now in the market for injectors.
Side note been looking at Warren Diesel injectors I have heard good things about them and also hear how people say only ford remans
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Oh I also should say once warm the icp is hovering around 800-1000 while it was idling, ipr was at 26-29%, ficm was at 48v output lowest was 47.5v while cranking, ficm logic and vehicle power were 13.5v. All the stats of it seem good and no codes now other than my conversion to mech fan clutch. I am using ForScan Lite for codes and monitoring now with torque pro assisting
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Warren Diesel has had their share of problems w/ their injectors. That said, they stick by their warranty and have good customer service. For me, I will stick to Ford remans or the "new OEM" Pure Power injectors.
What's your thoughts with my diagnosis? I just have a hard time swallowing the cost of a set of injectors but I am so tired of this truck not being up and runningWarren Diesel has had their share of problems w/ their injectors. That said, they stick by their warranty and have good customer service. For me, I will stick to Ford remans or the "new OEM" Pure Power injectors.
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When you have an injector leaking combustion gas, it usually takes out all the injectors on that side. It would seem that at a minimum you need all new injectors on the passenger side. If they have very many miles on them, then it would be wise to do all 8.
