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6.0 running rough, no throttle, no hot start
- Thread starter 04gold60
- Start date
Well now I don't have to worry about that, I'm thinking I must have messed something up, it sat for a little while now it won't startI really wouldn't expect much at all. If you do feel a little hestitation at first, I wouldn't be concerned.
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So noticed I am having fuel bubbles in the secondary filter from the fuel pump and not from cranking (tried cranking test and no bubbles) just with key on engine off and then when the pump isn't running a few more bibbles come out and the fuel slowly drains back.I really wouldn't expect much at all. If you do feel a little hestitation at first, I wouldn't be concerned.
I found an o ring on the water separator plug that is falling apart, got a new cap for the HFCM.
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Not uncommon for an o-ring on the primary fuel filter to cause a no-start. Either the o-ring on the WIF drain or the filter cap o-ring. It is hard on the injectors when you get air in the fuel. Good that you found it quickly.
Well I was having the starting issues and my wife suggesting checking the fuel filters to see if it had gelled (had that issue this winter) and it has been 40s and up but I figured what the hell and had her cycle the key while I had the top filter off and I had already done the bubble test and it passed no bubbles from compression, and noticed that it was bubbling from the fuel pump line.Not uncommon for an o-ring on the primary fuel filter to cause a no-start. Either the o-ring on the WIF drain or the filter cap o-ring. It is hard on the injectors when you get air in the fuel. Good that you found it quickly.
So its back to digging and replacing to hopefully get this thing running consistently, I am losing my mind with this.
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You are doing just fine. You have found numerous issues. Look at it this way, it was sort of amazing that it was "hanging in there" with all you had going on. Afterall, the issues you have described/found just didn't happen in the last few days/weeks (IMO anyway).
Yeah I'm not too surprised by that, we moved across country hauling a 10k+ lbs trailer and truck overloaded, with a Dorman oil cooler and oil leaked into the coolant and travelled about 10k miles like that, had no house and no means to fix it then but got that done last year.You are doing just fine. You have found numerous issues. Look at it this way, it was sort of amazing that it was "hanging in there" with all you had going on. Afterall, the issues you have described/found just didn't happen in the last few days/weeks (IMO anyway).
I'm sure it had a lot more issues I will find and fix in the years to come
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Ready for some more issues?You are doing just fine. You have found numerous issues. Look at it this way, it was sort of amazing that it was "hanging in there" with all you had going on. Afterall, the issues you have described/found just didn't happen in the last few days/weeks (IMO anyway).
So before I could get the seal I pulled the fuel pump fuse and the ficm relay so I could cycle the key on to roll my windows up.
I replaced the seal on the drain plug, it looked like it had been cut a few times. Cycled the pump numerous times after that. 20+ times. Had the FICM relay out so as not to let the batteries drain down and cause a FICM problem. The batteries drained down after so many cycles but at least I could hear I got the air out. Tried starting but had no juice so I didn't push it I said forget it I will let the batteries take a trickle charge. Let them charge all night and then I went out today and it had trouble starting (started and immediately died) and then I tried again and it started and sounded like it had a little miss and then when it kicked into high idle out sounded okay. Then I turned it off and checked codes and now it really feels like it isn't my year.
P0046
P0113
P0231
P0611
P1378
B1676
This is driving me nuts, how much crap do I have to replace?
The main harness has its issues especially where it goes into the vgt solenoid.
Lots of stuff with this truck and its driving me nuts, I can't wait to get this thing up and going
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P0046:
Code P0046 is set when a short to ground, open, or short to power is identified in the VGTCV or wiring between the PCM and VGTCV. This circuit is a continuously monitored circuit that takes less than 1 second to set. First thing to do is to verify that the VGT actuator is fully plugged in and that the connector and wiring are not damaged.
Sounds like you already know that. I had an issue w/ that connector and just spliced in a new one. No issues since.
P0231:
Possible causes: Open/short circuit, relay, inertia switch or fuel pump (DTC is for no voltage on the fuel pump monitor circuit)
btw - this relay is not serviceable separately - it can be serviced only with a replacement of the Central Junction Box, CJB, under the steering column
P0113:
IAT low: -40 *F. This is the code for a disconnected MAF.
P0113 and P1102 could be caused by a broken/damaged Vref wire at the Mass air flow sensor. I have seen this cause a buck/jerk and black smoke since the engine uses both sensors to control fuel, VGT position, EGR position and monitor how much EGR is flowing as well as how much fresh air is flowing. Pull up the MAF pid and IAT1 pid on your scanner and watch them very closely while you wiggle the harness right where it goes into the connector up and down and side to side. If you see any fluctuation in it while wiggling it, then you would definitely want to replace that connector with a new pigtail. The P1102 could also be caused by a boost leak, exhaust restriction, binding turbo, egr valve, or lack of proper fuel into the cylinders.
P0611:
FICM memory fault. Loss of FICM Power or internal FICM failure: FICM memory fault will set if a RAM or ROM fault exists. Loss of FICM Power. Other internal FICM failure.
P1378:
Low FICM logic power. System detects less than 7 volts. Could be low batteries, loose connections (or excessive circuit resistance), bad relay, or even a bad FICM: FICM detects logic power low, less than 7 volts. Low batteries, loose connections/ resistance in circuit, defective relay.
B1676:
Battery Voltage Out of Range EATC Module, Battery Voltage Out of Range DSM, Supply Voltage Out of Range ABS
Sounds like the FICM may need to be rebuilt and I would definitely load test each battery individually.
Check MAF (IAT1) wiring, and resolve the vgt wiring issue.
Unfortunately the fuel pump issue might be a pain. You can get a new fuel pump without buying the entire HFCM. That isn't the issue. The issue is that it sounds like you might need a new CJB, central junction box.
Code P0046 is set when a short to ground, open, or short to power is identified in the VGTCV or wiring between the PCM and VGTCV. This circuit is a continuously monitored circuit that takes less than 1 second to set. First thing to do is to verify that the VGT actuator is fully plugged in and that the connector and wiring are not damaged.
Sounds like you already know that. I had an issue w/ that connector and just spliced in a new one. No issues since.
P0231:
Possible causes: Open/short circuit, relay, inertia switch or fuel pump (DTC is for no voltage on the fuel pump monitor circuit)
btw - this relay is not serviceable separately - it can be serviced only with a replacement of the Central Junction Box, CJB, under the steering column
P0113:
IAT low: -40 *F. This is the code for a disconnected MAF.
P0113 and P1102 could be caused by a broken/damaged Vref wire at the Mass air flow sensor. I have seen this cause a buck/jerk and black smoke since the engine uses both sensors to control fuel, VGT position, EGR position and monitor how much EGR is flowing as well as how much fresh air is flowing. Pull up the MAF pid and IAT1 pid on your scanner and watch them very closely while you wiggle the harness right where it goes into the connector up and down and side to side. If you see any fluctuation in it while wiggling it, then you would definitely want to replace that connector with a new pigtail. The P1102 could also be caused by a boost leak, exhaust restriction, binding turbo, egr valve, or lack of proper fuel into the cylinders.
P0611:
FICM memory fault. Loss of FICM Power or internal FICM failure: FICM memory fault will set if a RAM or ROM fault exists. Loss of FICM Power. Other internal FICM failure.
P1378:
Low FICM logic power. System detects less than 7 volts. Could be low batteries, loose connections (or excessive circuit resistance), bad relay, or even a bad FICM: FICM detects logic power low, less than 7 volts. Low batteries, loose connections/ resistance in circuit, defective relay.
B1676:
Battery Voltage Out of Range EATC Module, Battery Voltage Out of Range DSM, Supply Voltage Out of Range ABS
Sounds like the FICM may need to be rebuilt and I would definitely load test each battery individually.
Check MAF (IAT1) wiring, and resolve the vgt wiring issue.
Unfortunately the fuel pump issue might be a pain. You can get a new fuel pump without buying the entire HFCM. That isn't the issue. The issue is that it sounds like you might need a new CJB, central junction box.
I should say I also cleared them and they all came back, monitoring the ficm voltage and logic power it was above 13 running and about 10.5 cranking and the ficm output didn't go below 47P0046:
Code P0046 is set when a short to ground, open, or short to power is identified in the VGTCV or wiring between the PCM and VGTCV. This circuit is a continuously monitored circuit that takes less than 1 second to set. First thing to do is to verify that the VGT actuator is fully plugged in and that the connector and wiring are not damaged.
Sounds like you already know that. I had an issue w/ that connector and just spliced in a new one. No issues since.
P0231:
Possible causes: Open/short circuit, relay, inertia switch or fuel pump (DTC is for no voltage on the fuel pump monitor circuit)
btw - this relay is not serviceable separately - it can be serviced only with a replacement of the Central Junction Box, CJB, under the steering column
P0113:
IAT low: -40 *F. This is the code for a disconnected MAF.
P0113 and P1102 could be caused by a broken/damaged Vref wire at the Mass air flow sensor. I have seen this cause a buck/jerk and black smoke since the engine uses both sensors to control fuel, VGT position, EGR position and monitor how much EGR is flowing as well as how much fresh air is flowing. Pull up the MAF pid and IAT1 pid on your scanner and watch them very closely while you wiggle the harness right where it goes into the connector up and down and side to side. If you see any fluctuation in it while wiggling it, then you would definitely want to replace that connector with a new pigtail. The P1102 could also be caused by a boost leak, exhaust restriction, binding turbo, egr valve, or lack of proper fuel into the cylinders.
P0611:
FICM memory fault. Loss of FICM Power or internal FICM failure: FICM memory fault will set if a RAM or ROM fault exists. Loss of FICM Power. Other internal FICM failure.
P1378:
Low FICM logic power. System detects less than 7 volts. Could be low batteries, loose connections (or excessive circuit resistance), bad relay, or even a bad FICM: FICM detects logic power low, less than 7 volts. Low batteries, loose connections/ resistance in circuit, defective relay.
B1676:
Battery Voltage Out of Range EATC Module, Battery Voltage Out of Range DSM, Supply Voltage Out of Range ABS
Sounds like the FICM may need to be rebuilt and I would definitely load test each battery individually.
Check MAF (IAT1) wiring, and resolve the vgt wiring issue.
Unfortunately the fuel pump issue might be a pain. You can get a new fuel pump without buying the entire HFCM. That isn't the issue. The issue is that it sounds like you might need a new CJB, central junction box.
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