2 questions > Using oil/u-joint connecting axel to wheel

[rammertide07]

I think my truck has been using more oil than it usually has. I don't see any oil stains in the parking lot at work and my grass at home is still alive. I've had diesel shop run a diagnostics for compression, contribution, and buzzed the injectors. Is it possible for the turbo to be putting oil into my pistons? I think this oil usage may be related to my "miss". I accidetly let the truck idel without the intake on for about 10min doh after I drained the fuel bowl. It seemed to not be missing with the filter off.....intake causing enough suction on the turbo to suck oil in I have not seen a decrease in fuel milage or performance.

Also, I was just starting my trip back home friday and I got 5miles down the road and as soon as I got onto a bridge the truck was vibrating like the whole road was the rough side. I pulled over and looked around my truck and didn't see anything. So I got back in and took off again. Everything was fine until I came across another bridge (bump) and it did it again. My theory turbed out correct that as long as I didnt hit a bump the truck didn't vibrate, but there was no way I was making a 1200mi trip in that condition. I took it by a mechanic and the the universal joint, on the driver side, that connects the axle to the wheel was bad loose and had fresh grease all around it...unlike my passenger side. They said they would need the truck all day and have to take the entire front end apart to change out that piece. I drove my truck back home and swapped everything into my wifes car...went to the gas station to fill it up. I saw one of my friends there and told him what the mechanics said and he said they was full of it, and that the parts are maybe $20 (called autozone and they said they were ball joints for $30 a piece and it has a top and bottom).

...So is it true that the entire front drive shaft has to come apart to fix that part? The mechanics priced it to me for $350-$400 and I want to make sure they are not jerking me around.

 

[CKyle494]

How much oil are you talking about using? Turbo could be a start has the boost been less than usual?, or could be injector(s). Are they original? Have you used bio-diesel lately?

 

[rammertide07]

How much oil are you talking about using? Turbo could be a start has the boost been less than usual?, or could be injector(s). Are they original? Have you used bio-diesel lately?

I really can't tell how much oil I'm using yet. I just started to pick up on it and I filled it to the full mark last thursday....and then friday my u-joint in the front driver side axle went out. So I haven't been driving the truck untill I get that fixed. I really haven't noticed a drop in boost...except when I got my 4" exhaust 3-4 months ago and then it dropped by about 10psi. I can get on it and go just fine......fuel milage hasn't dropped.

Yes the injectors are original....182,000 miles. Would that not show up on the diagnostics if it was using oil? I figured it wouldn't pass the compression test if it was injectors. I'm looking at trading my truck anyways on a 2x4 as soon as I get it fixed.

How would I check the turbo to see if it was using oil? And I'm not aware of using any bio-diesel....pretty sure I haven't. I've been keeping the truck above half a tank. I was trying to shim the fpr but ran into some complications and only raised it by 1psi to 60psi.

 

[dpantazis]

1. your friend does not know what he is talking about. REAL ball joints for these trucks cost more like $60-75.

2. the WHOLE side of the front axle has to come out. yes, really. again, RTFM. if you took the time to read the wiki pages, you might see articles on things like hub replacement and ball joint replacement.

3. acceptable oil use in these motors varies, but can be up to 1 qt/1000 miles. yup, you read that right. diesels have blowby. oil consumption via the PCV. leaking turbos are not part of that. live with it. deal with it. read the ford and navistar docs if you do not believe me.

get a gasser. you will be happier.

 

[rammertide07]

1. your friend does not know what he is talking about. REAL ball joints for these trucks cost more like $60-75.

2. the WHOLE side of the front axle has to come out. yes, really. again, RTFM. if you took the time to read the wiki pages, you might see articles on things like hub replacement and ball joint replacement.

3. acceptable oil use in these motors varies, but can be up to 1 qt/1000 miles. yup, you read that right. diesels have blowby. oil consumption via the PCV. leaking turbos are not part of that. live with it. deal with it. read the ford and navistar docs if you do not believe me.

get a gasser. you will be happier.

I didnt even mention ball joints (autzone priced them to me for $30 each...I checked because the first mechanic told me it was cv joints and the guy at autozone said ball joints...so yea I was a little lost as it is my first rodeo with this) ...again, me and him were talking about the u-joint that connects the axle to the wheel . $400 seems kind of excessive for a u-joint repair and was wanting to see if someone else had a mechanic shop done this at a cheaper price. Wiki article did not go as deep as the u-joint...just to the hub assembly/ball joints. And I have noticed an INCREASE in oil consumption...so I take it that something is going on. I asked about the turbo because of this article 7.3 USING OIL - Diesel Power Forums at Diesel Power Magazine

Nahh...I'll stick with diesel. And I already have a gasser, but it wont pull my 5th wheel.

Here is a link for anyone else that may find themselves in my situation...
Dana 44 Front Axle Shaft U-joint Replacement .: Articles

Thanks DP

 

[bigrigr]

If you took it to a reputable shop, they would probably be quoting you to do both sides? You need to clarify this, because, if it is for both, then that is a great price. If it is just one side, then it may be a little high. I am assuming that they would also do the ball joints at the same time, which would be smart if they have not been done recently. It is a semi-major teardown to get to that axle. And remember, those mechanics have familys to feed and bills to pay too, plus most will give a warranty with their work. Ask for clarification on EXACTLY what is being done, and make sure your comparing oranges to oranges. Jmo

 

[DaveBen]

Don't get the Auto Zone ball joints. Use only Moog ball joints and get the heavy duty type for your truck. You can quit reading Diesel Power, they are hardly a good source of information. That rag is advertising at its worst.

Dave

 

[BIG JOE]

Don't get the Auto Zone ball joints. Use only Moog ball joints and get the heavy duty type for your truck. **You can quit reading Diesel Power, they are hardly a good source of information. That rag is advertising at its worst.

Dave

TIMES 2 FER SHUR

**Biggest bunch of non-sence & mis-information available, IMO.

 

[JLDickmon]

OK WAIT...
if the truck is vibrating after it hits a bump, the axle joints & ball joints don't have anything to do with it..

check this before you go any further..

look at the U-joints where the have straps holing them to any of the yokes.. tell me if you can move the U-joint caps up and down in the yoke...

I know to look for this because....

 

[rammertide07]

TIMES 2 FER SHUR

**Biggest bunch of non-sence & mis-information available, IMO.

yall's opinion usually comes from experience....best opinion in my book