2 questions > Using oil/u-joint connecting axel to wheel

[rammertide07]

If you took it to a reputable shop, they would probably be quoting you to do both sides? You need to clarify this, because, if it is for both, then that is a great price. If it is just one side, then it may be a little high. I am assuming that they would also do the ball joints at the same time, which would be smart if they have not been done recently. It is a semi-major teardown to get to that axle. And remember, those mechanics have familys to feed and bills to pay too, plus most will give a warranty with their work. Ask for clarification on EXACTLY what is being done, and make sure your comparing oranges to oranges. Jmo

I just moved to Louisiana and I'm not very familiar with which shops are "good" and fair. And yes, its for one side (driver side). I think because I wasn't sure what I was talking about when I first took it to the mechanic they decided to jack up the price. They didn't clarify warranties or any of that. I showed him the u-joint and he said that it was a $350-$400 fix. Everyone I do business with, I want them to make money but I want them to be fair and not taking advantage of my lack of knowledge. Like the guy at Firestone that charged me $25 per qt of gear oil for servicing both differentials....all because I didn't know that autozone sold them for $12 a qt.
I thought about replacing the carrier bearings as well since I'm in there....guess I would do ball joints as well.

Thanks for the help guys

 

[rammertide07]

OK WAIT...
if the truck is vibrating after it hits a bump, the axle joints & ball joints don't have anything to do with it..

check this before you go any further..

look at the U-joints where the have straps holing them to any of the yokes.. tell me if you can move the U-joint caps up and down in the yoke...

I know to look for this because....

http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/axle/ujoint/1.jpg

This is a u-joint from a jeep...hopefully it will suffice for visual refference

In the pic, the description says that the red arrow is pointing to a clip that holds the u-joint cap in place. Is the cap the part that looks like a bushing on the u-joint...thats is against the yolk?? Just making sure so I will know I'm looking at the right thing this evening.

 

[rammertide07]

YouTube - U-Joint.MPG

This is my u-joint. I dont think its the actual u-joint. It seems to be at the base of the outside yolk.

 

[jestersv]

could be bearing or the hub lock does the 4x4 work? well to do the axle u joint you have to start by pulling the wheel, brakes and rotor, hub lock then next comes the hub bearing assy (4 nuts on the back side) then you can pull out the axle shaft and the seal that comes out with it DON'T try to reuse that seal if you have ESOF if it works when you put it back together it won't for long.if you have it that far apart i'd look at the ball joints while your there.check bearing assy also. you can easly spend 500 bucks in just parts(on 1 side) on the front end, and the ball joints and the axle u joint can be a bear if you don't have the tools to do it. also the seal isn't cheap when you trash the first one for the learning curve but the good news o'reillys carries the parts so you don't have to go to the dealer.

 

[rammertide07]

could be bearing or the hub lock does the 4x4 work? well to do the axle u joint you have to start by pulling the wheel, brakes and rotor, hub lock then next comes the hub bearing assy (4 nuts on the back side) then you can pull out the axle shaft and the seal that comes out with it DON'T try to reuse that seal if you have ESOF if it works when you put it back together it won't for long.if you have it that far apart i'd look at the ball joints while your there.check bearing assy also. you can easly spend 500 bucks in just parts(on 1 side) on the front end, and the ball joints and the axle u joint can be a bear if you don't have the tools to do it. also the seal isn't cheap when you trash the first one for the learning curve but the good news o'reillys carries the parts so you don't have to go to the dealer.

The hub assy was replaced last week...so at least I got that $400 out of the way lol. I think when my bearings went out the first of june it might have screwed up my u-joint. I could feel something for about a month after my bearins went out...jerking every now and then. I thought maybe I had bad locking hubs and they were trying to engage.

 

[DaveBen]

The way you are moving it in the You Tube Video, it is NOT the U-joints. It is the collar where the axle goes into the spindle.

Dave

 

[Dieselpwrdredneck]

back to the oil consumtion, with the original injectors there is a good chance your o-rings are goin bad, when the get really bad i've seen the oil pushed back into the fuel boil and mixed the fuel and burned. if it's o-ring, you will never see a leak. smell your exhaust to see if it smells like burnin oil

 

[JLDickmon]

The way you are moving it in the You Tube Video, it is NOT the U-joints. It is the collar where the axle goes into the spindle.

Dave

I agree with Dave..
that's got exactly one buttload of play where it goes through the spindle..
getting the vibration only in 4WD?

I'm confused...

 

[rammertide07]

I agree with Dave..
that's got exactly one buttload of play where it goes through the spindle..
getting the vibration only in 4WD?

I'm confused...

Idk about 4WD....i had my hubs out anyways when I was driving because I thought it was the hubs trying to engage. And I just now got everything down to the hub assy off. I'm going to try to get the rest off tomorrow.

Inside, where the locking hub goes into, there was what looked like silver grease and metal shavings....I guess from bearings are there bearings on the backside? I had a repair manual...but my wife decided to clean and now I can't find the darn thing.

 

[rammertide07]

back to the oil consumtion, with the original injectors there is a good chance your o-rings are goin bad, when the get really bad i've seen the oil pushed back into the fuel boil and mixed the fuel and burned. if it's o-ring, you will never see a leak. smell your exhaust to see if it smells like burnin oil

But if I had bad o-rings could I still pass the compression test? I started it today after it has sat for almost a week and it suttered once after it started and leveled out.....then started "missing" again. I went out today and bought some rotella 15-40. Was going to get the FRAM filter but I saw that price at $4.XX and thought that was kinda a cheep for a "good" filter. I usually run the K&N or Motorcraft filter. I'm going to try changing the oil and filter and go back to the stock air box and see if that affects anything.

I thought about oil getting past the injectors...I haven't smelt the exhaust but I have been keeping an eye out for smoke/haze. I'll try taking a big wiff tomorrow.