Where to buy 2008 differential cover?

bushpilot

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its the way heat-sinks work...air flow (even by convection)
amplifiers, power supplies, transistors...and DIFF covers ;)

imo the fact that the paint WONT stay on the factory stamp'd
cover is an indication to me...in fact if you look at the covers they
typically show signs of surface rust (lack of paint) on the lower
portion of the cover (where the "WARM" fluid would be)

the 08 cover is cheap insurance in my mind...worst case...the 08
cover looks better & WONT rust..certainly it wont cool LESS than the
ugly stamp'd cover
 
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Crumm

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IMHO, it also looks better too!

Thats the key ;tu Who has ever over-heated the rear-end in a pickup truck? The rear axles in the big truck I drive approach 300º at times but I bet Crummy has never seen 200º.

I picked up a 2008 cover a week or so ago and have started polishing it. I can tell you that polishing all those fins are not a easy task. I have begun to think that even starting this project was not the thing to do :doh:
 

NASCAR Mike

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Isn't there some kind of blasting the cover to polish it? I know sand blasting wouldn't do it but I have heard that walnut shells can polish when blasting?

It might not be a high lustre like polishing but it might offer some improvement.
 

Kleetus

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Polished only looks good, it's not going to improve performance of the heat transfer. Unless you're going metal to metal, and even then you'd use thermal grease, it ain't gonna make a difference.

More surface area, higher capacity, and aluminum vs steel are the only things that are going to assist in keeping the heat to manageable level.
 

BamaSixGun

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Polished only looks good, it's not going to improve performance of the heat transfer. Unless you're going metal to metal, and even then you'd use thermal grease, it ain't gonna make a difference.

More surface area, higher capacity, and aluminum vs steel are the only things that are going to assist in keeping the heat to manageable level.

I think we all understand that the polishing is only for looks.



But I think with the ruff edges knocked off, it could reduce drag ;)
 

Maxtor

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I think we all understand that the polishing is only for looks.



But I think with the ruff edges knocked off, it could reduce drag ;)



:lmao :lmao :lmao :lmao :lmao

Aluminum vs steel, yes it transfers heat faster, yes the fins help dissipate heat, is it really necessary, probably not.
How many differentials have you seen in a stock PSD that went bad because of excess heat?
Being a old racer, we have used aluminum to transfer heat faster than steel in numerous applications on the engine, with the added benefit of lighter material. If I was continuously pulling a very heavy load in very hot weather, I might change to aluminum. In most uses, it is not needed.
 

BamaSixGun

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I'll be the first one to admit it and it don't bother me to say it.............

I bought it mainly cause it looks better. The fact that it may disipate heat better and keep it cooler was beside the point.

Plus it was another fairly cheap MOD to do, that actually has some benefits.


But looks was the main reason.





















Just wished I had gotten it polished first.
 

Maxtor

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I'll be the first one to admit it and it don't bother me to say it.............

I bought it mainly cause it looks better. The fact that it may disipate heat better and keep it cooler was beside the point.

Plus it was another fairly cheap MOD to do, that actually has some benefits.


But looks was the main reason.





















Just wished I had gotten it polished first.


Yes I have to agree with you that an aluminum differential cover looks better than a steel one, with the added benefits of better cooling.
Now they need aluminum valve covers. In race cars, using aluminum valve covers helps keep the valve train (mainly springs) living longer. Of course we are talking 6000-9000 rpm on a race engine compared to 2000-3000 rpm on a diesel.
 

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