What to look for when buying used 6.0

acende

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The other point about a manual shift is when in reverse they go back quickly. Mine backs up at about 8-10 mph. It seems quick if your not used to that speed in reverse or in tight spots. Other than this quirk manuals are the way to go when you tow in my opinion.
 

Crumm

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Wonder why they made reverse so high. I do a quite a bit of trailer backing up and when maneuvering into a tight spot such as backing around the house into my shop high speed is not a good thing.
 

Kleetus

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Wonder why they made reverse so high. I do a quite a bit of trailer backing up and when maneuvering into a tight spot such as backing around the house into my shop high speed is not a good thing.

Simple... they want you to buy the friggin automatic...

If the low to first gear range wasn't so F'd up I'd have never bought the auto. I like it, but I miss the control and the efficiecy and longer brake life of the manual.

If this transmission ever goes out, I'm seriously looking at an Eaton 7 or 8 speed to put back in it's place. heavy and unbreakable...
 

wcsmithiii0911

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From what I've experienced and read here have the EGR cooler checked out real good. They seem to fail quite unexpectedly with no preceding indications other than a small loss of coolant.
 

bushpilot

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If the low to first gear range wasn't so F'd up I'd have never bought the auto. I like it, but I miss the control and the efficiecy and longer brake life of the manual.

interesting...i always thought brakes were cheaper than clutches or
transmissions...

sure you get an added measure of "control" w/ a manual but given my
choice (and time/safety margin) ill use the brakes over the transmission
since (brake pads are cheaper & a heck of a lot easier to service).
 

Maxtor

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I will trust my manual helping me keep the 5th wheel back while going down a steep grade, plus the added benefit of better fuel mileage. 20.9 mpg today after taking a trip to Manton, 102.7 miles, 4.9 gallons. This was at a leisurely 60 mph average.:trip
I like to keep our fuel tank topped off, ready for a trip.
:D
 

Kleetus

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interesting...i always thought brakes were cheaper than clutches or
transmissions...

sure you get an added measure of "control" w/ a manual but given my
choice (and time/safety margin) ill use the brakes over the transmission
since (brake pads are cheaper & a heck of a lot easier to service).

I'll take that bet.. a clutch is what, $500, and I'm being generous, brakes are 50-75 per axle assuming you don't have to do rotors, add rotors, 200 per axle. they last 40-50k, I usually get 150k+ out of a clutch.

If you're doing the work yourself, which I think is completely normal, brakes and yes the clutch, although more involved, but not impossible.

Clutch, $500 over 150k miles.

Brakes $1500 over 150k miles

Not counting the mileage increase either...

And when you think about it, the real trucks use manuals too. Yeah they have automatics, but you don't see many.
 

bushpilot

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I'll take that bet.. a clutch is what, $500, and I'm being generous, brakes are 50-75 per axle assuming you don't have to do rotors, add rotors, 200 per axle. they last 40-50k, I usually get 150k+ out of a clutch.

If you're doing the work yourself, which I think is completely normal, brakes and yes the clutch, although more involved, but not impossible.

Clutch, $500 over 150k miles.

Brakes $1500 over 150k miles

Not counting the mileage increase either...

And when you think about it, the real trucks use manuals too. Yeah they have automatics, but you don't see many.


man i dont know where you do your parts shopping...but...

replacement rotors @ autozone & the likes (w/ a warranty)
are 54 bucks per rotor, pads are 28-54 bucks a SET (depending
on the type/brand...and THAT includes a lifetime warranty...
never PAY for another set)

so im into the brakes (if i cant turn the rotors) for no more than 150
bucks...ive got 62k on my original set of brake pads (and i AM no
doubt an agressive driver w/ plenty of local trips)...my pads look like
theyve got at LEAST 50% left on 'em.

a brake job (takes no more than 30 to 45min at best)....youd
spend that much time just getting the tranny unbolted...and MOST
shadetree's arent equip'd to do a tranny...a brake job can be done
by just about anyone.

as for real trucks and the types of trannies...looked at any over
the road trucks lately...its tough to find a volvo 6x0, 770 or 800 series
WITH a full manual...at best most are autoshifts if not COMPLETELY
automatic these days.
 
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Kleetus

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Well to be truthful with ya, I haven't looked too hard for brakes for mine yet, and my pricing was based on our old 97 250. One thing I'll never waste money on is turning a warped rotor... I did that game twice, and all it did was come back and warp even worse. Not worth the time or aggravation.

What year is yours, I forget?

I did forget to mention the 100 dollar oil change every 36k or whatever it is... if you can find the damn fluid locally. You're lucky, you can find it without having to get bent over by a dealer...

Now the autoshifts aren't really an automatic, per say... auto shift yes, but there's still a main clutch in it, that isn't a fluid drive. At least that's what's behind my buddy's 60 Series in his truck.

Guess it's what ya like... I can see advantages to both, but I just like being able to put it in any gear at any time, right wrong or indifferently...
 

bushpilot

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mines a 2004, and i agree turning rotors isnt what it used to be...
thins 'em out aand theyre not made as thick or high quality as they
used to be.

i can remember w/ my 96 5.0L gasser it was 6 bucks per rotor
to turn each one...and that was in about 99 or 2000.

not sure what "oil" youre talkin' bout changin' @ 36k

i change my oil <dino rotella> every 5k its NOW costing me
about 38 bucks w/ filter (based on a 55 buck case of oil).

the tranny fluid isnt cheap 3 bucks per quart now for the mercon sp
(which is a welcome reduction from the 8.50 they were getting in 2004)
21 quarts and the factory by-pass filter gets you a complete flush
(in your driveway) for less than 100 bucks.


and i agree...autoshifts are different animals...but youre not really
wearing the "starting" clutch per se like you would w/ a conventional
manual.

and ABSOLUTELY the manual has its place...less maint. over all and
better mpg....the 5r110 torqshift is a good trannie...the failures are
few and far between and its holdign up the the towing AND the HP
mods (unlike the old 4r100)

fwiw the 5r110 allows you to select ALMOST any gear...1, 2, or 3
for starting out.

on a long haul open road/interstate id like to have a manual just
for the MPG.
 

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