Truck not running for a week - Need help!

[BBT]

My truck stoped running a week ago as described in this thread. The mechanic said I had a bad PCM. The code for a faulty ROM kept coming up. So I got a new PCM from DP-Tuner with Jody’s Economy burn. The PCM was installed today and the truck still won’t go, codes for a faulty ROM came up again. I suppose it‘s possible that I got a bad PCM from Jody, though highly unlikely.

The mechanic told me I need to get a factory PCM before he can do any more diagnosis, and that the aftermarket units like the one I got are unreliable. I told him to put it all together and close up the job.

I’ll need to find someone in the area to tow it to who is familiar with our trucks. Does anyone know of a good mechanic near San Rafael, CA?

I can get to the truck this weekend in the parking lot if anyone out there can offer any help on what‘s wrong. I’ve already put in my spare CPS with no improvement.

This is my original post:

Do I need a new PCM?
Hi all,

Been reading the forums and learning a lot for the last several months. Now I have a problem to post about - lucky me.

Sunday afternoon I was driving home from a job when my formerly problem free truck Died While Driving. The engine just quit. Both tanks about half full. After pulling over I cranked and cranked again, but not a sign of life from under the hood. Switched tanks and tried again. The tach moved during cranking so I ruled out the CPS. Next thought - fuel., so I walk home and get the spare fuel filter, replace the dirty filter then clean the FPR screen which looked totally blocked. Checked the filter bowl fuel level again after turning on the ignition, all seemed fine. Then I cranked again and got a few burps from the engine. After a few more times it started, but only ran a few seconds. I kept at it, but it would always die again though once it ran for over a minute.

I was ready for the Tow Truck. Had it towed to a nearby shop and went back this morning to try starting it again. It ran for 3 minutes then died. Checked in to the shop and waited for the call. It came late this afternoon, the guy said it was the computer. Looked like it had taken some water and needs replacement.

What do you guys think? Is that a reasonable diagnosis? If the PCM is still in the truck I might go back tomorrow morning and pull the Banks chip to see if that makes a difference.

What is a reasonable price for a new PCM? I looked at the DP-Tuner site, they have a programed new PCM for $250. Seems like that might be the way to go.

Your thoughts and advice are welcome.

Thanks

 

[clem]

If your batteries are weak,low oil,or a blown fuse will keep the truck from starting.Are you getting any smoke while cranking?You may hve cranked all the oil out of the HPOP.Others will chime in.Good luck

 

[jharvey]

BBT, you may want to check the maxi fuses under the hood make sure they are all good, next would be a CPS, even if that doesn't fix it you'll need a spare.

Check the oil level in the HPOP, should be within an inch of the top, you may have cranked the oil out in previous attempts.

Let us know how you're getting along with this.

 

[BBT]

Thanks for the replies,

To summarize from previous posts:
The engine starts but won’t keep running. Usually goes for a few seconds (once once it ran a little over a minute) before it dies.

I changed the fuel filter and cleaned the regulator screen.

The mechanic had the truck all week and checked the injectors and the fuel pressure, both working OK. There was a code for a bad PCM ROM. I got a new PCM from Jody at DP-Tuner, but it showed the same code. I also brought my spare CPS to the mechanic to see if that helped, but the truck still doesn’t go.

I’ll check the fuses and HPOP oil level when I go visit the truck today.

Please keep your ideas coming. I need my truck!

Any thoughts on a mechanic in my area (San Rafael, CA) that I could have it towed to for who is good with Powerstroke engines?

Thanks

 

[BBT]

Just back from looking at the truck. The new PCM from DP-Tuner was installed. I thought I had told the mechanic to install the new CPS that I had supplied, but it was still sitting on the front seat in it’s plastic bag. I then tried to install it myself but couldn’t move the 10mm bolt. My wrench slipped a couple of times and I was afraid that if I kept trying I might ruin the bolt head.

After I reconnected the lead to the CPS I checked the fuses under the hood, all were OK.

I’ve never looked inside the HPOP before to check the oil level and as it didn’t have an obvious to me inspection port I left it alone. Do you pull the whole cover?

After closing everything up I cranked it. It started but died after about 5 seconds. I cranked again and this time it ran for almost two minutes before quitting. BUT, I noticed that it was running very rough. Before this, even when it would run only briefly, it ran smooth - like normal. I gave it a little throttle and let it idle at about 1K RPM on the tach. After it quit I tried a few more times to start it and then noticed that the tach was no longer moving. I gotta change that CPS!

So, can anyone offer advice on getting that 10mm bolt out of the CPS? And, how do I look inside the HPOP to check oil level? And yes, I don’t know much about this stuff.

I’m going back tomorrow to try again, let me hear from you by then please. I need my truck!

Thanks

 

[jharvey]

BBT make sure you're using a good 6 point socket, take along some penetrating oil as well, some of those are real buggers.

On the HPOP there is a plug on top that a 1/4" driver fits into, take that out and peer into the HPOP with a flashlight, oil should be near the top if not top off with some of whatever you use.

 

[BBT]

Thanks John, I‘ll stop by Sears on my way there tomorrow for a 6 point, mine is a 12.

I need my truck!
BBT

 

[95_stroker]

Ditto on the 6 pt socket, it will facilitate removal of the CPS a bunch.

Drop our member JOAT a PM as well, he is in your neck of the woods sorta kinda, Pittsburgh Antioch is where he is, he might be able to point you towards a reliable mechanic, whatever you do though, find a new mechanic as yours sounds no so up to speed on PSD's.

 

[JOAT]

Weird set of problems. I don't know of any mechanics to recommend in your area, but Richard Hheynow is up in the North Bay area and may know someone good.

Definitely get that CPS changed.

If the plug on top of the HPOP is stubborn, the other side on top is the Oil Pressure Sending unit. You can pull it to check the level too.

Also look around the top of the engine at the wiring, sometimes diesel eats the insulation away and things short out.

Pull the fuel filter, and unplug the heater wire under it inside the bowl. Not real likely thats it in these temps, but easy to eliminate it.

When it does run, does it run normal, then suddenly die? Or is it more of a struggle and then gets worse and dies?

 

[BBT]

Don,

Thanks for the tips. When it runs it runs normal, then dies suddenly.

BBT