Starting Issues

[roosterdiesel]

As to the guy that said you shouldn't need GP to start in 70* weather, that is not true.

Ya I already know that.

Personally, I lean towards GPR, or some other malfunction of the GP system. Bad batteries usually just mean lots of cranking without start, not start and die like is described.

We think alike! I haven't had a chance to jump the GPR, been in hurry to get to class in the mornings. But this morning it started almost normal....just a little romp and not too much white smoke. Gonna try in the morning before heading out to get a load of steers to auction. First heavy pull since being modded! Now I'm off to prep the truck and trailer for tomorrow.

 

[kenh]

To reiterate:
I HAVE NO PROBLEMS starting @ 60* w/o g-plugs.
If it is "rough",another problem may be responsible.
No, I do not make a practice of starting w/o G-plug cycle.

 

[whatabudro]

Just for others info, especially new to diesels, it is bad on glow plugs or the battery ( not sure which) to start without waiting for the glow plug "wait to start" to cycle off correct? I have been told this by elder family members and just want to clarify? I've been told that even if it starts with easy with good batteries it's not friendly to the glow plugs. Not trying to steal the thread but maybe I should start a new one. Budro

 

[BIG JOE]

Just for others info, especially new to diesels, it is bad on glow plugs or the battery ( not sure which) to start without waiting for the glow plug "wait to start" to cycle off correct? I have been told this by elder family members and just want to clarify? I've been told that even if it starts with easy with good batteries it's not friendly to the glow plugs. Not trying to steal the thread but maybe I should start a new one. Budro

Hi Budro,

Ya, we're prolly kinda Off Topic but, when yer PSD is "Cold Iron", you need to cycle the Glow Plugs. After that (?), as long as yer Temp needle is anywhere in the operating range (Normal), you don't need to wait for the Wait To Start light to go out. The WTS light, along with all the other little lights that light up when you turn the key on, is just part of a "Systems Check", conducted by yer ECM/PCM.

Block coolant temp sensors tell the ECM/PCM the ambient coolant temp, which then controls whether the GPR cycles or not.

I'm at 95K and still on the OEM GPR an set of Glow Plugs. Must be some truth to what my maintenence/repair CD sez....

Roosterdiesel ? My .03 would be: Batteries first, then yer GPR needs lookn at.

JOE

 

[roosterdiesel]

Well jumping the GPR got me back to a start with no "romping" but I still had the puff of white smoke that I've had the last couple of weeks. Not as big a puff as when it romped, which it only did Saturday and Sunday morning. I don't have any issues after the truck's been driven once for the day. It's the "cold iron" starts that gave me to really rough and smokey starts for the past couple weeks. Going to have batts checked this afternoon.

And as far as the PCM reading coolant temp, I was told by a programmer that the PCM uses oil temp and IAT that's in the airbox for the GPR system "cold" fuel tables, EBPV, hi-idle and tranny patterns on an auto. The oil is the "blood" of the PSD, it runs through the crank, block and heads yielding the true temp of the internal engine parts. I was told when racing don't let your EOT get below 150 degrees. That's when injector timing is "advanced." Things could go boom!

Thanks for all the input guys!

 

[kenh]

No doubt then, Texicas 70* is radically diffrent than western 70*
Low compression will require more G-plug use.
Per 01 manual, EOT controls" plug on" and EOT and Barometric pressure decide the duration of cycle.

 

[roosterdiesel]

Well it's a bad battery. My friendly NAPA guy tested them for me and the driver's side is bad.

Now comes, the question Mega-Trons or Optimas? But that's another thread.

 

[BIG JOE]

And as far as the PCM reading coolant temp, I was told by a programmer that the PCM uses oil temp and IAT that's in the airbox for the GPR system "cold" fuel tables, EBPV, hi-idle and tranny patterns on an auto. The oil is the "blood" of the PSD, it runs through the crank, block and heads yielding the true temp of the internal engine parts. I was told when racing don't let your EOT get below 150 degrees. That's when injector timing is "advanced." Things could go boom!

Your Programmer guy is correct. I just did'nt get that technical.

When I stop at the store, the gas station or am out of my truck for a short while, I don't wait for the WTS light. I base that on what the 2K FORD Maint/repair CD sez in it's explanation of the GPR system and it's operation.

Some common sence here too. Alot of variables.

Just a Point to Ponder, I guess.

 

[roosterdiesel]

Well Red Top Optima's were installed last night. Sears was the only place in town that had 2. They wanted $60 to do them and I asked if there was anything involved in the change over, guy looked at the screen and said, "uh no." So I took them and figured the hold downs on the truck would work knowing that the gel cells are smaller. Got the old ones outs and realized there are adapters -mad . Got her started, went inside and looked at the receipt. At the bottom it gives the part numbers under reccommendations.

Down into the high 40's last night, started died once. Then fired off with a small puff of white. GPR's going to be picked up after class.

 

[roosterdiesel]

Only one GPR in town on a Saturday. O'reilly's had a Motorcraft piece for $73 and some change after taxes. Napa wanted 140 bucks but was out. Autozone said dealer item only. Carquest too.


This morning oil temp was 56 degrees at startup. WTS light went off, turned the starter over and she fired off like new with a small cloud of BLACK smoke now. Yesterday under the same conditions was a totally different story! My son wondered what was wrong, then he gave me crap about how I should have got a Dodge and Papa's truck never did that. 6 year olds!