Starting Issues

[roosterdiesel]

This morning went to start my truck to take my friend to the airport. Waited the usual 10 or so seconds after the WTS light goes out, turned over, fired and died. Did this 2 more times. Popped the hood to make sure nothing out of the ordinary like critters or something. Went back and started the truck, it romped pretty hard and had a huge cloud of white smoke. I've been getting white clouds at startup for a couple weeks now. Temps have been around 70 degrees. I've started it once since the initial startup this morn and it seems to have longer cranking time but no smoke.

No codes. Batteries are 4 years old and are the originals I believe. I'm thinking GPR, possible GPs, or batteries. What do you guys think?

 

[95_stroker]

Try jumping the terminals on the GPR with a heavy pair of jumper cables, see if it starts easily after doing that, if so, then your GPR is the culprit. Very well could be batteries too. But the GPR is the first thing to check and the cheapest and easiest to replace.

 

[roosterdiesel]

Try jumping the terminals on the GPR with a heavy pair of jumper cables, see if it starts easily after doing that

Thanks Mike! I'll try that. How exactly do I do that? I don't want to fry anything!

The batteries are showing 12.5V engine off with my digital volt meter. I'm kinda ruling them out.

 

[whatabudro]

Mine did that last summer and after looking at the batteries I noticed the normally green indicator on top of the battery was red. I changed both batteries with Interstates and the problem disappeared. I wasn't sure it would fix it, but a 4 year old battery in 100 degree Texas heat was my best guess. Budro

 

[whatabudro]

The batteries are showing 12.5V engine off with my digital volt meter. I'm kinda ruling them out.

Mine showed 12.5 too, but whats important is how far they drop under load.

 

[roosterdiesel]

Hmmm. Maybe I won't rule them out. The eyes are still green though.

I totally forgot to see what they were when the GPs are supposed to be on.

 

[95_stroker]

Thanks Mike! I'll try that. How exactly do I do that? I don't want to fry anything!

The batteries are showing 12.5V engine off with my digital volt meter. I'm kinda ruling them out.

Dont be fooled by 12.5 V on your batts, they can still be bad. The only way to know is have them load tested to see if they are putting out sufficient amps.

To check the GPR, take your jumper cables and hook the same cable (ie, red end and opposite red end) from one of the big terminals on the GPR across to the other big terminal on the GPR, one comes from the batts and the other goes to the GP harness's. You can also do it with a big ole screwdriver or a heavy pair of pliers but be prepared for some sparks. But in essence you are eliminating the possiblity of the relay coil being fried and hooking the batts directly to the GP harness by jumping like this, just keep it jumped for about as long as your GP's normally cycle, then unhook and go hit the key.

 

[kenh]

In 70* weather, should not need the glow plugs.
I've started mine at around 60* w/o waiting.
Battery's probably the problem.
You should see about 200 RPM while cranking (with AIC).

 

[police stroker]

Mine did the same thing but it was bad gas try draining the fuel bowl behind the intake and see how much water comes out!...... After doing this mine ran fine. Free try before you go buy two new batteries. I went to the ford house and bought the higher cranking amp ford motorcraft batteries for mine. I had the problem you do but it was a couple of mounths ago long after I replaced the batteries......

 

[Hoss 350]

Hmmm. Maybe I won't rule them out. The eyes are still green though.

I totally forgot to see what they were when the GPs are supposed to be on.

I would jump the GPR like was suggested. Just go from one terminal on the relay to the other, and wait for a couple seconds, then start it up. Easier start, then you have your answer.

As to the guy that said you shouldn't need GP to start in 70* weather, that is not true. A cold start at 70* F will still be pretty rough without GPs. It will do exactly what he is saying it does. Even if you don't wait for the WTS light to go out, the plugs are still heating in teh cylinder, and still help quite a bit with starting combustion.

Personally, I lean towards GPR, or some other malfunction of the GP system. Bad batteries usually just mean lots of cranking without start, not start and die like is described. I know some have had this happen. You can have your batteries checked at Schucks for free, I don't even think you have to remove them... I would do this if the glowplug test doesn't work out...