Start/No Start then Start/No Start. Not Fuel Filters...

[BigMook89508]

Unfortunately, an electrical issue w/ the IPR is hard to nail down with confidence, so I hate to recommend changing something simply based on a failure rate that is a bit higher than other components.

Fact is that sometimes the FICM can do essentially the same thing - erratic performance. That is why I like to have a known good FICM to try. PLUS - I really do recommend just having it upgraded at CircuitBoardMedics or FICMRepair.com simply for long term reliability. Based on your codes and data though - I don't believe you have a FICM issue.

The turbo heat is a problem. It can ruin an ICP sensor, the IPR electronics, or cause issues with the wiring to either one. Since you have signs of heat damage, I would probably want to get a very good view of the electrical harness going to the IPR and the ICP.

It might even be worth replacing the IPR.

As far as the HPOP goes, that can get expensive. If you end up removing the IPR valve, you can put air into the HPOP discharge through the IPR port. If that air flows backwards into the crankcase or into the oil filter, then the HPOP is likely to be bad. The thing is, you really need to rotate the HPOP with the air on the discharge because you can have a few pistons inside the HPOP leaking back, but not all of them.

There are ways to bench test the IPR also, but that doesn't always pick up on an electrical issue inside the actuator.

You can get parts at Auto Nation White Bear Lake for a reasonable price. Sometimes their shipping is high though. If you set up an account on FordParts.com, you can set your dealership the Auto Nation White Bear Lake and you get the same price on parts, but a little cheaper shipping.

Sorry it isn't a "more definitive" assessment, but that is all I can see at this point.

Nah I totally understand why you cannot make a definitive diagnosis without being right here. I supposed then I should start with pulling the Turbo because I did not like seeing melted plastic like the Turbo is getting too hot. I can see how that will damage the IPR and ICP as well as potential wiring loom areas.

So the plan is:

1. Pull and deal with possible turbo issue based on heat presence and codes.
2. While the Turbo is out making the IPR and ICP easier the get hands on, I will change both out and replace wiring and plugs on both.
3. If it presents itself maybe I will pull the HPOP cover and check seals. If it appears seals are bad and pump is good maybe I will just do that.
4. Optional FCIM upgrade later.

Does that sound like a decent plan?

Thanks for all the help and insight.

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[bismic1]

That sounds like a good plan to me.

 

[bismic1]

I understand about tight budgets, but every model year has some weak points and sometimes when you are into the "tear down" mode, it is ultimately best to address them!

The 2003-2004 HPOP issues is truly a disappointing issue - just like the STC fitting on the 2005 and up and the 2004.5 and up EGR cooler.

Fuel pressure (all model years) is another disappointment, but the blue spring usually fixes it.

The weak FICMs (all model years also) is another disappointment, but a lot of times they fail because of battery or alternator problems.

 

[bismic1]

I guess the last reliability thing to throw your way is in regards to the oil cooler.

You really need to keep an eye on the oil vs coolant temperature differentials. Anything approaching 15 degrees is a potential issue with the oil cooler being plugged. Changing to an EC-1 rated ELC coolant (AFTER properly cleaning the coolant system) will practically eliminate issues with plugged oil coolers. Eliminating plugged oil coolers greatly reduces the chance of a failed oil cooler.

 

[BigMook89508]

I understand about tight budgets, but every model year has some weak points and sometimes when you are into the "tear down" mode, it is ultimately best to address them!

The 2003-2004 HPOP issues is truly a disappointing issue - just like the STC fitting on the 2005 and up and the 2004.5 and up EGR cooler.

Fuel pressure (all model years) is another disappointment, but the blue spring usually fixes it.

The weak FICMs (all model years also) is another disappointment, but a lot of times they fail because of battery or alternator problems.

Thank you.

I bought the blue springs kit and will do that as well. While it is torn down I figure at least looking over the HPOP may be a good idea if for no other reason to replace with new seals.

A new FCIM is a lot cheaper than an oil pump and I may just change that out later.

Since the Turbo coded I will definitely deal with that. It adds yo but not like it would in a shop and I have all winter to do a little at a time.

What do you think about the EGR delete?

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[bismic1]

Don't get a new FICM. They are still made with weak parts. As I posted, get it upgraded at one of the two places I recommended. New ones are just as bad as the old ones. Some people get new power boards, but the logic board goes bad about as often as the power board does.

Since you can not get tunes for EGR deletes anymore, I do not think it is wise. Just my 2 cents.

 

[bismic1]

Any updates?

 

[BigMook89508]

Any updates?

None as of yet. I am still waiting in the new IPR and ICP, then I will pull the Turbo. I just yesterday got it behind the RV gate.

I was going to ask if it is an issue if I try to start it with the turbo off so if it doesn't fire I can go straight to the HPOP.

Also is there only 1 turbo for the 6.0L and no different ones? If I go ahead and order one I do not want to have spent the money and have to return it.

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[bismic1]

You can do the ICP and IPR with the turbo on.
Remove the intake, the degas bottle (or at least remove the holddown bolts and push it to the side), and the FICM. You should be able to reach around and do what you need to do. You will need to plug up the small hose openings on the degas bottle or drain 2 gallons of coolant. I have small sections of hose with plugs in the end that I put on them. I also put plugs in the ends of the small hoses when I remove them from the degas bottle.

There are good videos on it - IIRC DieselTechRon has a few.

Don't try to fire it off without the turbo on.

There are different Turbos for the 6.0L depending on how much horsepower you want or what type of performance you want (towing, acceleration, etc). They even sell non-VGT turbos (you need a tune for it).

The OEM turbo is fine IMO, but I really like the turbos sold by KC Turbo.

 

[BigMook89508]

You can do the ICP and IPR with the turbo on.
Remove the intake, the degas bottle (or at least remove the holddown bolts and push it to the side), and the FICM. You should be able to reach around and do what you need to do. You will need to plug up the small hose openings on the degas bottle or drain 2 gallons of coolant. I have small sections of hose with plugs in the end that I put on them. I also put plugs in the ends of the small hoses when I remove them from the degas bottle.

There are good videos on it - IIRC DieselTechRon has a few.

Don't try to fire it off without the turbo on.

There are different Turbos for the 6.0L depending on how much horsepower you want or what type of performance you want (towing, acceleration, etc). They even sell non-VGT turbos (you need a tune for it).

The OEM turbo is fine IMO, but I really like the turbos sold by KC Turbo.

Thank you. So they are based in how much HP rather than different types like mounting points. I saw a turbo where they made it a point to show that it had no tabs for bolts to mount to the stand. That made me question if there were differences that I needed to be concerned about. If it doesn't matter then I will pick a turbo up.

I wanted to remove the Turbo for 2 reasons.

1. To unplug the ICP, I removed the Degas bottle, air intake tubes from the air filter to the turbo and the FICM. That is where I found the melted part of the tube in the turbo. The ICP plug mainly broke off because of my giant hands and I still could not get close enough to even touch the plug.

2. Also there was that DTM code for the Turbo and the Melted Intake tube. Perhaps I have a Turbo issue as well. I wanted to make sure and replace it all if that became an issue. This will also make it easier for my caveman hands to replace the ICP and IPR along with new pigtails.

I will update as soon as I can do the job when the parts come. In the meantime I will start the teardown.

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