Start/No Start then Start/No Start. Not Fuel Filters...

[mike avery]

Have you tested voltage at the fuel pump? Many times the fuse box is to blame when the fuel pump relay burns up and won’t supply full voltage.

 

[bismic1]

I agree that checking power to the pump is important, but in this case, he proved that the pump will fill the secondary fuel filter bowl quickly with the key on (post #10).

 

[BigMook89508]

I agree that checking power to the pump is important, but in this case, he proved that the pump will fill the secondary fuel filter bowl quickly with the key on (post #10).

I will be pulling everything out of the way today to get the ICP unplugged, but since fuel came up again, I wanted to mention something.

One thing that seems consistent in reading about signs of a bad ICP is terrible fuel economy. Our last trip from Reno to Yellowstone and back before the no start issue came about. I tore though fuel at an alarming rate. Even towing the 5th wheel I never used this much fuel.

I probably spent 4 times more in fuel that normal. It cost me over $800 for an 11 hour drive one way and about the same or more coming back. I just kept justifying it with maybe I was headlong in the wind and it was having to work harder.

Now that I look back at fuel economy, struggling with hill climbing, (Steep or not) and a couple other issues then maybe, just maybe this ICP has gone bad.

Figured I would just toss this out there while waiting for me to get back and say whether or not it started with the ICP unplugged.

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[BigMook89508]

If it comes to needing a new HPOP, I would buy an upgraded one from DieselSite.

It is expensive, but VERY reliable. Buying a cheap HPOP will have a high probability of giving you trouble!!

The early 04 and the late 04 HPOPs will "interchange". The late 04 is the same pump with SLIGHTLY modified internals to SLIGHTLY increase capacity. The late 04 HPOP will work fine in the early 04 engines. The 05 HPOP is the one that was completely changed.

If your ICP sensor is behind the turbo, then you have the early 04 truck with the 03 engine.

Be sure you get on the ICP sensor and not the IPR valve when you go to unplug it.

Okay. I unplugged the ICP sensor not the IPR valve. Actually the plug ended up breaking off while trying to remove it in the crazy tight space.

Got it all back together and NO START...

So I suppose the issue is the HPOP then? I was hoping for once it would be something simple. Looks like I have my winter project. I will push it behind the RV gate and work on the tear down and take a look at replacing the Turbo, IPR and ICP while everything is out of the way.

If there is anything else other than this please let me know. Otherwise down the road I will update when it is completed. Thanks so much for the help.

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[bismic1]

Typically intermittent starts are electrical. If the ICP connector broke, then you probably should replace it. That is not an uncommon thing to have to do with the early engines.

The IPR actuator is a key suspect when you have intermittent starting behavior, but usually it causes unexpected stalling also.

Usually an HPOP problem isn't intermittent.

 

[BigMook89508]

Typically intermittent starts are electrical. If the ICP connector broke, then you probably should replace it. That is not an uncommon thing to have to do with the early engines.

The IPR actuator is a key suspect when you have intermittent starting behavior, but usually it causes unexpected stalling also.

Usually an HPOP problem isn't intermittent.

It only luckily started at has gas station and that one time in the driveway and then died never to start again.

I will replace the ICP and the pigtail. I had no intention of leaving it that way.

I thought that if it was a no start then it was the HPOP? Now I am totally confused.

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[BigMook89508]

Typically intermittent starts are electrical. If the ICP connector broke, then you probably should replace it. That is not an uncommon thing to have to do with the early engines.

The IPR actuator is a key suspect when you have intermittent starting behavior, but usually it causes unexpected stalling also.

Usually an HPOP problem isn't intermittent.

So if driving down the road it surges and cuts out and keeps running while driving that may be the IPR? Before thus mess I had that happen a few times intermittently. Then like my experience now that it wouldn't start at the car wash and then finally started and then started once again in the driveway but never started again, that is the IPR?

Should I just remove the turbo so I can easily get to both very easily, check the turbo for issues and hopefully that was the issue?

When I removed the air filter inlet tube that connects directly to the turbo I saw that the plastic tube was either worn away and broken or melted a bit. Luckily I had some turbo hose to wrap it with to try and start it.

Let me know and maybe I will go that route and forget about the HPOP for now.



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[bismic1]

Unfortunately, an electrical issue w/ the IPR is hard to nail down with confidence, so I hate to recommend changing something simply based on a failure rate that is a bit higher than other components.

Fact is that sometimes the FICM can do essentially the same thing - erratic performance. That is why I like to have a known good FICM to try. PLUS - I really do recommend just having it upgraded at CircuitBoardMedics or FICMRepair.com simply for long term reliability. Based on your codes and data though - I don't believe you have a FICM issue.

The turbo heat is a problem. It can ruin an ICP sensor, the IPR electronics, or cause issues with the wiring to either one. Since you have signs of heat damage, I would probably want to get a very good view of the electrical harness going to the IPR and the ICP.

It might even be worth replacing the IPR.

As far as the HPOP goes, that can get expensive. If you end up removing the IPR valve, you can put air into the HPOP discharge through the IPR port. If that air flows backwards into the crankcase or into the oil filter, then the HPOP is likely to be bad. The thing is, you really need to rotate the HPOP with the air on the discharge because you can have a few pistons inside the HPOP leaking back, but not all of them.

There are ways to bench test the IPR also, but that doesn't always pick up on an electrical issue inside the actuator.

You can get parts at Auto Nation White Bear Lake for a reasonable price. Sometimes their shipping is high though. If you set up an account on FordParts.com, you can set your dealership the Auto Nation White Bear Lake and you get the same price on parts, but a little cheaper shipping.

Sorry it isn't a "more definitive" assessment, but that is all I can see at this point.

 

[bismic1]

Also - did you ever look at injector #1 connector and wiring?

 

[BigMook89508]

Also - did you ever look at injector #1 connector and wiring?

Wiring look good and is connected at Injector #1

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