Running Issues

rsjohnsn

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Ok, here is the deal, the temp this morning in the garage was 69 degrees and the temp outside was 52 degrees. I had my truck in the garage unplugged from 4pm yesterday until 6am this morning. The truck started fine but it acted like it was 10 degrees and wouldn't get out of it's own way until she hit 4th gear. She had a missing and jerking feeling until she warmed up a little bit. This doesn't happen if I leave her plugged up all night. This has been going on for a while and she is now throwing codes (cel) but I have no way of reading them. I am now experiencing an erratic idle which I didn't have before. I cleared the CEL once and it returned this morning. Any ideas before I take her in to the shop? Oh yeah, I have the Banks 6 gun installed but it does this with or without it.

Thanks
Scott
 

bushpilot

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could be any number of related items

glowplugs/gpr
fuel filters
hfcm
injectors
icp
ipr

one thing i can be certain of is that clearing the CEL wont resolve
the problem or make it go away...and it might make it harder to
trouble shoot <since the codes are probably now cleared too>
 
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rsjohnsn

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Ok, I finally got around to removing the Banks Six Gun and running the truck in factory mode. While doing this I also reset the CEL by disconnecting the batteries. Immediately upon start up the CEL returned so I took it to my local Advance Auto so they could use there code reader. The amazing thing is they couldn't pull any codes nor could they reset the CEL. I know I need to take it to my dealer but they told me it would be up to 2-3 weeks before they could even look at it. I would like to figure this out before then and maybe fix it myself over the holidays while I have time off. Anyway, while stopped at a red light today she lurched forward twice, like hitting the gas pedal while holding the brake. What other options do I have for reading the codes before my dealer can get to it?

Thanks
Scott
 

rsjohnsn

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Thanks for the info. I went to AE's website but I got confused as to what I need to run the system on our engines. Can you enlighten me on what I need? :dunno

Thanks
Scott
 

DaveBen

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Scott, Click on products and that will show the "Scan Tool" and that is what you want. YOu will get the OBD II harness and the program to run the scan tool. You will also get a program that will allow you to drag race for times right in the comfort of your truck. This uses real data from your truck during the run. Read over their product literature.

Dave
 

rsjohnsn

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This is directly from there FAQ section and this is what I am confused about. Did you have to purchase anything else besides the scan tool itself?

How do I know if my vehicle is OBDII/EOBD compliant?

If your passenger vehicle or light truck was manufactured for sale in the U.S., with the model year of 1996 and newer (and rarely some 1994 and 1995 vehicles), you will have the OBDII interface. EOBD vehicles follow the same rules except new gasoline models became complaint in 2000 and existing models became compliant in 2001. EOBD diesel vehicles start with the 2004 model years. You can also check in the engine compartment for an emissions sticker that will verify your vehicle's compliance.

For vehicle's 1994 and 1995, CARB has provided this list: CARB_OBDII_Compliance.pdf

What OBDII/EOBD vehicles does the ScanTool or SpeedTracer not work with?

We will connect to the Duramax, Cummins, and Powerstroke diesel vehicles; however, because their gross vehicle weight exceeds the maximum requirements of the OBDII standard, they are not OBDII compliant and a very limited amount of data and sensors will report with generic OBDII. However, with the enhanced Ford, GM, or Chrysler interfaces, the proprietary powertrain and other systems sensors are available. Check the Software Enhancements page for more details..


Thanks
Scott
 

DaveBen

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Scott, Your truck is OBDII/EOBD. You need nothing else unless.

Use it and later you can add on the Extended Ford package, or whatever they call it. That is what I did.

Dave
 

rsjohnsn

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Ok, per a buddies recommendation, I took my truck by the local Diesel mechanic today. After talking to him a while just to see what kind of guy he is, he put a reader on my truck. After running a few test he came back with an error with the ICP sensor. He explained everything to me in detail as he was doing the test. After he pulled the code he proceeded to crawl on and under the motor with a long skinny light and lens. After he got to where he could see the ICP sensor he showed me what was wrong with it. It looks as though the end of it has busted out a little and causing my recent oil leak. He said that it is losing pressure and that this is what is causing my surging at idle. He quoted me labor at 2-3 hours and the part for $250.00 plus tax. I feel comfortable with this because there is no way I could get to the part without removing the turbo and thats not going to happen. The guy seems to know what he is doing and he explained everything to me so I feel comfortable with him. Who knows, maybe I have found me a new mechanic. As far as the price goes, is he in range?

Thanks
Scott
 

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