Rear diff or trans problem

[iracemine]

I took a look today and found that they slip yokes have their boots eld on by odicker clamps so I am holding off till I get some before I do this. However I found that there is a rubber thing that holds the drive shaft in place, this thing has about 1/2" inch of play. Will I need to get this changed to?

 

[sagebel]

If the rubber thing is between the transmission (t-case on 4x4) and the rear diff. it is the carrier bearing. By 1/2" play I assume up and down. My new carrier bearing has about 1/8"-1/4" play. Easiest way to replace is to remove the driveshaft and take it and a new carrier bearing to a shop and have them press off the old and press on the new.

 

[JRJ04]

anyone have any pics of what exactly all this looks like and how it is to be done? I really think this is my problem.

 

[iracemine]

anyone have any pics of what exactly all this looks like and how it is to be done? I really think this is my problem.

yeah dude I was thinking about taking some pics and doing a informal DIY. I will pick up some metal zip ties and do it up on my day off (Wednesday).

 

[JRJ04]

that would be awesome because i have never done anything like this before and know i have the ability, but just dont have the knowhow.

Someone, somewhere osted a link that had pics...anyone remember?

 

[sagebel]

Test drive complete. It is a much smoother ride.

Couple of tips:

Use a straight edge long enough to span the boot and make two marks on each side of the boot to ensure proper alignment during re-assembly.

Use a punch to mark each side. Divots will not wash off.

If you are gentle you can re-use the clamps.

 

[iracemine]

Gone

first pic, move all race cars from garage. chock wheels and use your e-brake!!!!

second pic, mark your yoke side with your boot as so you know how it goes back together. this is important as due to the drive shaft being balanced. I only took off the one odiker clamp on the one side carefully to be used again. and then unbolt the u-joint and stick a pry bar in there and pop it free and then drop it down to the ground.

third pic, I went to far in my opinion, if I had to do it again I would not take the yoke of the shaft. I found that there was plenty of grease on the yoke, but I went ahead and rubbed in some new ford grease on the splines but not too much. make sure never to get anything on or around the grease. Yeah its hard with all the rust but make it so.

fourth pic, I have this tool for oditker clamps installation but regular nail head snips works fine.

5th pic, test drive across the border for some good beer, and I cannot belive that this tiny amount of grease can do that.

 

[dpantazis]

POACHER! that was my barrel...

do you think that little cold pack is going to do much?

good write up. i may have to get dirty this weekend.

how bad to press the u joint out?

 

[JRJ04]

which side of the boot did you take loose? the one closer to the front or the rear of the truck? as far as the ujoint goes...and yes im a total newb at this...is it under the boot or just in front of it?

do you just unbolt it? one side? Just looking for a little more clarity.

Great writeup! The pics have got me going in the right direction!

 

[iracemine]

POACHER! that was my barrel...

do you think that little cold pack is going to do much?

good write up. i may have to get dirty this weekend.

how bad to press the u joint out?

ha ha, yeah thats the only thing I had to keep it cold, but I only live 30 min from the border so it didn't get that warm when I got it back.

you can see the pry bar that I had to use and it was not bad at all to pop off (1 out of 10). I even made a thread about "axel wrap" because I was going to buy $200 worth of shocks thinking it was that. but just this little bit of grease took out something that would make some nauseous riding in my truck.