OK Guys... recommend for me please...

[JLDickmon]

I've lurked around here for about a week now.. I'm gonna launch my bomb...

Here's what I've got... a '99 crew cab... here's a pic of the truck... all STOCK with the exception of a set of 265 Wrangler Silent Armors (I work for Goodyear, so go figure)... by the way, does NOT have a cat/con...

here's the deal... this thing is a gutless pig. I keep the clean filters in it, change the fluids once a year, etc... I've got three trailers I haul with this thing at least a couple times a month... the 24" travel trailer hauls SWEET behind it.. the 7'6" four horse bumper pull isn't as nice, but once you get rolling, it's easy to forget it's there... I just bought a new 24' gooseneck stock/combo trailer so I could haul the two Clydesdales and a hitch wagon...

my dilemma is... with the big trailer, this thing is a gutless friggin' HOG...

would I be better off buying a chip, swapping out the turbo, opening up the exhaust, or what?

You guys are the ones that play around with this stuff; I just drive it, ya know?

PS... I'm not keen on anything that'll KO what little fuel economy this thing gets... 13 mpg to work and back...

went down to Elyria, Ohio a couple weeks ago, and on the turnpike, I was getting close to an enjoyable 16...

in advance....

 

[JLDickmon]

here's a link to the trailer... if it matters
http://www.exiss.com/php/horse/products/product.php?PRODUCT_ID=3

 

[CHPMustang]

To start things off right you'll want gauges,programmer/switch chip,a 4" turbo back exhaust system and a big intake filter such as the AFE Stage II or the Big $20 conical filter

If your spending budget allows I'd do em all at once for instant results.

Sweet truck by the way! I may pick your brain about the Silent Armors in the near future

 

[whatabudro]

Ok first thing we need to know. There are two different 99 models. An early 99 and what's called a 99.5 The main differnce is the turbo and some programming, the type of intakes you can run. Let us know what you have for a budget. There are many different roads to travel from here. Take some pictures of the turbo and we'll tell you which model you have.

 

[oi8228oi]

First things first GET GAUGES (Pyro, Boost, Trany temp) then Air Intake (for what your doing i suggest Stage 2 by afe) and Exhaust (full 4 inch turbo back for haulling[might i suggest hog performance or mbrp]) then you can chip it(i suggest chips over programmer[hate my programmer cant wait to chip it and be on the fly]) as far as turbo goes get a Wicked wheel from dieselsite.com
also because you pull a trailer i suggest you get an exhaust break if your anywhere arround hills or mountians.

with these things you should have no worries.. as far as being 99 or 99.5 im almost sure you have 99.5 which is the better to have. i say this because of the type of powerstoke badge you have and the fact that there no cat. early 99 have the powerstroke badges that look like the gas badges.

once you have done those first 4 things then you can look into other types of mods like FASS/Airdog, Propane, NOS, Methonol Injection, and so on.

good luck and i hope this helps.

 

[JLDickmon]

I'm not worried about budget... I'm not flush with cash, but I'm not afraid to spend some money to get results... I dig that $20. filter upgrade...

 

[JLDickmon]

someone wanted pics of the turbo and build date...

built 05/99

 

[JLDickmon]

one further note... one of the guys that works for me is ASE H-D Master certified (I'm ASE Auto Master), so major changes are only limited by my wallet... problem is, most of his experience is on line-haul stuff, like Freightliners and Peterbuilts... and none of the "Big Three" diesels are the same as they use in the highway tractors...

 

[CSIPSD]

You have a late 99. This is really a good thing, bigger turbo (but a surger, more on that later) bigger injectors (very small differance but) Bigger CAC pipes (intercooler tubing) bigger HPOP (hi pressure oil pump).

From the pic's, one cheap mod is to delete the intake air heater, it blocks about 20% of the air flow into the motor and only turns on under very controled timing (never!!! LOL). This will not effect your cold starting. There are several ways to do this, gut the one that is there(remove all the wires to there sorces), a Cummins oil drain plug(grind it down so it does not protrude in to the intake) or buy a plug from dieselsite or ITP diesel. See red paint arrow.

Second see the oil build next to the blue arrow, take some time and remove all those boots, clean them with soap and water, reinstall. That oil is from the crank case vapors, it is normal, but can cause boost leaks and lost of performance. If you want to spend some cash, www.dieselsite.com has a kit to replace all of them with a higher quality material ( I have it and love it!!!)

Start with the basics, Gauges... I have a thing for them... I have ten...

You only need one or two. Pyro, your Exhaust Gas Temp. This is the most important one in a diesel rig, keep it below 1250-1300 for any extended time and your good. A few seconds passing or drag raceing is nothing but not for more then 10-15 seconds.

Second is a tranny temp, opinions veary, but keep it under 215-230 and your good. See it higher then that and pull over, put it in nutural and let it idle for a few minutes.

Skys the limit after that, intakes-$50 to $400, exhaust-$50 (BTM) to $1100, Chip or Programmer- used $100-$300 new $300-$500... and on and on and on... see my sig for alot of other "stuff" you can do.

 

[CSIPSD]

Ok, some more...

The red arrow(in this pic) This is where the crank case vapors enter the intake tract, causing the oil to leak out of the boots. You can remove this piece, install a piece of 4" exhaust tubing about 3" long. Then the tube that runs from the valve cover (look down by blue arrow)to that piece can be routed to the back of the truck somewhere, and the Crank case vapors will vent to the air...

The yellow is just another boot you need to remove and clean.