No dash function, windows, radio, ect

[DaveBen]

Looks like you have a short in #35 fuse. That is why it keeps blowing every time you replace the fuse. Now you get to crawl under the dash and trace that wire to whatever is shorted to the chassis (ground). I would look at the latest electrical devices that you have installed. Any bare wire to ground will cause a short. Good Luck.

Dave

 

[BIG JOE]

does the door ajar indicator on the dash stay on?
what about the courtesy lights?

as far as the wires from the pillar to the door, just pull back the rubber boot and visually inspect..

I would look at the latest electrical devices that you have installed. Any bare wire to ground will cause a short. Good Luck.

Dave

What John & Dave said are yer best places to start.

Joe

 

[02Oilburner]

Thanks for the replies guys. I took boot and looked at wires. They all seem to be fine. I have no new electronics. I think its a problem somewhere in the door. I was having to open and slam the door to get windows and radio to work a few times in the last couple months. Any way to unplug that wad of wires in the door and test outside the truck?

 

[BIG JOE]

Thanks for the replies guys. I took boot and looked at wires. They all seem to be fine. I have no new electronics. I think its a problem somewhere in the door. I was having to open and slam the door to get windows and radio to work a few times in the last couple months. Any way to unplug that wad of wires in the door and test outside the truck?

Could be one of the door jumb switch/buttons has shorted to ground ? (the need to slam the door)

Yul halfta remove the door panel to inspect & replace'm.

Joe

 

[02Oilburner]

Update:

I sprayed all the door latches with Wd-40. I held door handle up and worked latches back and forth a few times. Unfortunately I also took off the passenger side kick panel at the same time (I read that you can isolate the interior lighting there). I put the 10 amp fuse in and IT DIDN'T BLOW!!! I then cranked up the truck and the dash worked. I cut truck off, put the kick panel back on, closed the passenger door, got back in closed the driver door and cranked it up.
Fuse has blown again!!!!!!! It was getting dark and I used the last 10 amp fuse so I was going to get a resetable 10 amp fuse. I get in truck and start off to the auto parts store and I hear a sound like broken glass or something under my truck. I notice the battery light came on and no power steering or brakes! I limp back to the house and find one of the belt tensioner pulleys is gone! I had a little coolant dripping under the truck when I got home. I'm hoping the pulley did not puncher anything under there. Im going to get parts this morn and I'll update again this afternoon.

 

[02Oilburner]

Well I got the resetable fuse and did get the dash working this morning for about 10 minutes. I went to a couple of auto parts stores looking for a door jamb switch and they said they would have to order it. I called around and found one this afternoon that I'm going to get tomorrow morning. Ill let you guys know if this fixes it. Thanks again for the help!

 

[02Oilburner]

Update

Wow I cant believe its been this long and I still haven't fixed it!!!!(sort of)

Door Jamb switches seem to be working. Horn beeps twice when doors are open, beeps once when they are closed. I started to think maybe the problem was somewhere in the interior lighting. (I bought a 10 amp breaker to use instead of continuing to blow 10 amp fuses) I have the 10 amp breaker in and shut all doors then I turned on the interior lights by the dimmer switch and BOOM goes the #35 breaker(bulbs barely light the filaments). So I pop open the panel with lights and dimmer switches. I then unplug the dimmer harness. At this point the #35 breaker has reset, doors are shut. I turn key and to my surprise the dash funtions like normal!!!!!! I have Tach, speedo, fuel,temp ect!!!!!#35 10 amp breaker will trip and dash loses power if doors are open, and resets to normal after doors are closed. The radio,windows still do not function. They did function for a second or two before the breaker would trip before unplugging dimmer switch.

If anyone has any suggestions as to what to do next would be great! Diagram of wiring in truck for the interior lights.
As always thanks for the help guys!!!!!

 

[BIG JOE]

Hmmm..

Drop the fuse panel and check out the GEM box ?

These things are known to leak water, from the D-side windshield area.. water runs down and drips into the GEM & Fuse panel.. corroding part.. or all.. of the assembly.. where you can't see it.. unless you pull it, and inspect it.

 

[02Oilburner]

Hmmm..

Drop the fuse panel and check out the GEM box ?

These things are known to leak water, from the D-side windshield area.. water runs down and drips into the GEM & Fuse panel.. corroding part.. or all.. of the assembly.. where you can't see it.. unless you pull it, and inspect it.

Thanks BIG JOE
Ill drop the fuse box to check. What is the GEM box?

 

[BIG JOE]

Thanks BIG JOE
Ill drop the fuse box to check. What is the GEM box?

Simply put.. It's a "distribution terminal". If it's corroded.. you might have 12v going to ground.. not going where & when it should.. kinda sounds like that MAY be your problem ? Maybe one of the other guyz will chime in with what "GEM" stands for ?

When you drop the fuse panel assembly down.. yul see it.. and the Crud, if any, will be apparent.

Some have been able to clean it up.. Some have had to replace it

Joe