The Baldwin # is B-5134, TG. Mine is hooked up like yours and I have allways used the Baldwin filter... with No op temp issues. Maybe something there with the Wix ????? I wouldn't think so but
Joe
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I'm Stumped
- Thread starter Tail_Gunner
- Start date
The Baldwin # is B-5134, TG. Mine is hooked up like yours and I have allways used the Baldwin filter... with No op temp issues. Maybe something there with the Wix ????? I wouldn't think so but
Joe
Tail_Gunner
CRJ & ERJ A&P Mech.
The Baldwin # is B-5134, TG. Mine is hooked up like yours and I have allways used the Baldwin filter... with No op temp issues. Maybe something there with the Wix ????? I wouldn't think so but
Joe
I just crossed the B-5134, and the Wix number is the 24070. So according to Wix, it's the same filter. I think I'm gonna take a stroll out to the garage and take a good long close look at the old pump.
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Tail_Gunner
CRJ & ERJ A&P Mech.
On looking at the old water pump, the port the filter kit draws from is prior to the t-stat. So it might be feasible that the coolant filter kit may be flowing enough coolant to prevent sufficient heat build up to open the t-stat.
I wonder if a flow resrictor may help.
I wonder if a flow resrictor may help.
The Baldwin # is B-5134, TG. Mine is hooked up like yours and I have allways used the Baldwin filter... with No op temp issues. Maybe something there with the Wix ????? I wouldn't think so but
Joe
you might be on to something there...
If you put a valve in the coolant filter line then I'd suggest that you shut off flow to the filter (or from the filter, same difference). That way you have effectively removed it from the system. If that's the problem (big if), then the valve could be adjusted closed to make sure you got some flow back to the de-gas bottle, but not much.
dmd
Member
Just use a clamp and clamp off one hose, easier than a valve just to test it..
powerboatr
living well in Texas
TG
the kit for the 6.0 taps in at the heater hose(hot side) and then the degas small return line from the top of the radiator....
maybe your on the right track as your filter is now a big BYPASS and its allowing to much flow and resulting lower temps.
might need to change your point of access into the anti-freeze loop
the kit for the 6.0 taps in at the heater hose(hot side) and then the degas small return line from the top of the radiator....
maybe your on the right track as your filter is now a big BYPASS and its allowing to much flow and resulting lower temps.
might need to change your point of access into the anti-freeze loop
Tail_Gunner
CRJ & ERJ A&P Mech.
I'm waiting for a genuine Ford coolant temp sensor to arrive. I got two from Advance and with neither one, did the temp gauge reach the cold mark. I was thinking that with both working the same way, they both had to be OK right? What if they are not calibrated right for that application?
I'm also thinking about what DMD said about just pinching the filter hose off. The upper radiator hose is not "hot" after driving a distance, but the coolant filter is hotter than hell. So it seems there is more heat going thru the coolant filter than the t-stat. If I pinch/clamp that filter hose off, that'll force coolant flow thru the t-stat. Then I can look again at the temp gauge and see what it does.
I'm also thinking about what DMD said about just pinching the filter hose off. The upper radiator hose is not "hot" after driving a distance, but the coolant filter is hotter than hell. So it seems there is more heat going thru the coolant filter than the t-stat. If I pinch/clamp that filter hose off, that'll force coolant flow thru the t-stat. Then I can look again at the temp gauge and see what it does.
TG, FWIW ? I installed a temp sensor in the unused port on the Coolant Filter*, to get Real engine temp temps, at/from the Water Pump. You might try that'n see what you get ??
Joe
*Dont forget to ground it ? (don't ask me why I said that
)
Joe
*Dont forget to ground it ? (don't ask me why I said that
)
Tail_Gunner
CRJ & ERJ A&P Mech.
*Dont forget to ground it ? (don't ask me why I said that
Should be grounded thru the wire connector/wire harness. The shop manual wire schematic shows that one of the two wires is a ground. It also states to use teflon tape on the threads. I used thread dope to do the same thing.