HUBS...to lock or to unlock?

rammertide07

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I've asked this on here before with do's and dont's replied to me.

I have the switch-on-the-fly 4x4 switch. Can I leave my hubs turned to the clockwise position while not using the 4x4...just for normal driving? I'm re-asking this question becaus eof some unclear answers. My owner's manual sounds like I can leave it in the "auto" (it does not say auto anywhere on the hubs) position and just use the switch to engage them. The owners maual poorly explains the operation and kinda confusing:dizzy. Also, what are the vacume lines for going down to each tire? I figure that these are to do the actual locking of the hubs. The owners manual also says I do not have to back up to engage or disengage the hubs. What's yalls thoughts?
 

dboyw

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The vacuum lines are for the hubs, and are the source of a lot of vacuum problems. It is suppose to work that when you turn the switch, the transfer case engages and a vacuum is sent to the hubs to engage them. When you switch it off, the vacuum stops and usually you have to drive in reverse a bit to disengage the hubs. Mine didn't work like that. They would stay locked.

Here is a picture I could find with auto and lock on the hubs. With the hubs in lock, they are and you can drive all you want. But it does put more parts in motion and hurts MPH some.

I went to Warn hubs and lock them when I need. I left them locked for a week, even after the snow was off of the roads, and still drove 70mph to work without problems.

If I am mistaken in my information, someone please correct me.
 

DaveBen

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The vacuum lines going to each hub are the way that the ESOF "Locks in" your four wheel drive when you flip the switch. To unlock you just flip the switch back to 2 wheel drive and back up about 25 feet to disengage the hubs. I don't care what the manual says about not backing up to disengage the front end. If you do not back up it may not disengage. If you"lock in" your hubs, you will be turning the 4 wheel drive parts but not applying the power to the front wheels.

I have NEVER had ESOF and I will NEVER buy ESOF. I like the Manual four wheel drive. It is my choice to run the front end engaged or not and my choice to lock in four wheel drive. This is the fourth truck that I have had with four wheel drive on it, and a Jeep or two.

Dave
 

no-red 6 0

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you DO want to drive around in 'auto' position and if you drive around in locked position you will have lots of issues as the front drive shaft engages and you are driving on pavement in 4 wheel drive....

as you can see in the picture, there is a small dot as to where you turn the dial....your words may be gone - look carefully

and yes the lines are the vaccum lines to engage the 4x from the switch.

i was told when i bought the truck that you can engage 4hi at any speed up to 55 mph.....i have always followed that rule

i was also told after my L hub locked up 2x that i must switch into "lock" position once a month or ~1K miles and roll up and down the driveway just to keep things lubed up.....followed that rule too...
 

rammertide07

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If I have my hubs in the counter-clockwise position and the ESOF in the 4x4 high/low, the front wheels do not pull. I have to turn the hubs clockwise for them to pull. Idk if I have auto or just manual hubs.....I dont even know I'm sure what I'm talking about. My hubs have no letters nor dots. "i was also told after my L hub locked up 2x that i must switch into "lock" position once a month or ~1K miles and roll up and down the driveway just to keep things lubed up" I guess thats why they are hard to engage and sound rough. So what would be the best way to run my truck as far as the hubs go? I'm looking at getting a set of Warn hubs.
 

JLDickmon

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you have one sticking or one that has flat failed..

you guys think these things are junk? Try one on an F150.. no manual override or anything..
and they are on the BACK side of the knuckle between the hub and the CV joint
 

rammertide07

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you have one sticking or one that has flat failed..

you guys think these things are junk? Try one on an F150.. no manual override or anything..
and they are on the BACK side of the knuckle between the hub and the CV joint

Passenger side is sticking. I have a pair of channle locks in the door to help lock and unlock them. When I had the breaks check out for a noise, the guy also checked my driver side hub. He took it out and spun it around his fingers and it rattled. Is it suppose to spin smoothly? What are you talking about being junk?
 

melmount

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the locking hub can stick. The pliers will allow you to turn it. Counter clockwise is disengaging.
Make sure you can spin the axel after its all unlocked. Reach under the truck grab the front u joint and spin it. If its locked it did not disengage. Re lock it and unlock it. I use a screwdriver sometimes in the axle. I stick it between the joint and use it for leverage back and forth. get them to spin. The hub being tight needing pliers does not meen the axel is stuck or its stuck in locked position. It just meants the switch is stuck. The axels must spin. Dont drive with them locked. The u joint when spinning wont give the same turning radius. Its tighter. Not fun. to me it steears terrible when in tight areas.
I could care less about the shift on the fly, as far as vacuume is conserned. I lock my hubs myself if i want the 4w to work. I removed the vacuume lines to the hubs. The switch on the dash soes operate the trandfer case. I lock the hubs
 

no-red 6 0

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rammer-
yep, counter-clockwise IS to disengage...
do you have any type of 'dot/mark/anything' to indicate the 'spot' to which you need to turn the dial too?

'junk' might be kind of a harsh word....i know you can pull them off and pull them apart to lube them up...seen a vid of it done....gotta look for it - if i find it i'll post it up!!

yes, once you have disengaged it by the dial, spin the wheel - look underneath while doing that and notice if the front shaft spins - if so then it did not disengage - and you will have to find out which one is holding up..

good luck and i will try and find that info....

2004 F250
try here, keep in mind it is a gasser, scroll down and look for the ESOF repair..........

i did have an issue w/ the vaccum sensor?? (on the 6L it is located on the passenger side fender wall, on top - iirc $20-30 from ford to repair - simple unplug/unbolt and install)....i don't know if it is the same for a 7.3L
 
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rammertide07

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rammer-
yep, counter-clockwise IS to disengage...
do you have any type of 'dot/mark/anything' to indicate the 'spot' to which you need to turn the dial too?

'junk' might be kind of a harsh word....i know you can pull them off and pull them apart to lube them up...seen a vid of it done....gotta look for it - if i find it i'll post it up!!

yes, once you have disengaged it by the dial, spin the wheel - look underneath while doing that and notice if the front shaft spins - if so then it did not disengage - and you will have to find out which one is holding up..

good luck and i will try and find that info....

2004 F250
try here, keep in mind it is a gasser, scroll down and look for the ESOF repair..........

i did have an issue w/ the vaccum sensor?? (on the 6L it is located on the passenger side fender wall, on top - iirc $20-30 from ford to repair - simple unplug/unbolt and install)....i don't know if it is the same for a 7.3L

Nope, no markings or dots. I just have to feel when it stops turning.
I think maybe I could stand on my head, put my foot on the steering wheel, I could see the shaft lol. Sounds like a two person job. I haven't had any problems with the 4x4 engaging. Just when it is engaged and I turn the wheels I hear like a metal grinding noise...makes my teeth cringe.

Thanks for the info!!
 
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