HUBS...to lock or to unlock?

[no-red 6 0]

nope - one person job...

jack front end off the ground (both tires - use jack stands) rotate one/both tires while looking underneath to see if shaft is spinning.... may need to put truck into neutral - block rear wheels for safety..... that is how i checked mine....

did you look at the 'repair' procedure?

 

[rammertide07]

Ahhh...ok. I checked some of it out, not all of it. It's suppose to be a little bit nicer outsied tomorrow so I'll probablly open that can of worms then. Thanks man...

 

[dpantazis]

i am not sure i understand your question or confusion.

take a look at this page for pics and info on cleaning up and lubing the hubs. a little elbow grease goes a long way.

Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Autolock Hub Lubrication Maintenance Web Page

like JLD said in other posts, soaking the hubs in ATF helps. kroil worked for me.

the weak spot in the design seems to be the selector and the housing. its not removable and aluminum corrosion binds it up, while the innards work fine.

the channel locks are a bigger hammer. as stout as these trucks are, they don't like bigger hammers.

if your innards are greased up good, and the seals and vacuum lines are good, you can get by.

 

[rammertide07]

My question started out being how the hubs, esof, and vacume lines all worked together. Thanks to everyone for the maintenance info for my future hubs.

 

[Tbar]

My question started out being how the hubs, esof, and hubs all worked together. Thanks to everyone for the maintenance info for my future hubs.

I had an explanation all written out on my Iphone this afternoon but it locked up when I went to send.....typical. lol

You turn the knob on the dash....it activates the vacuum pump and the electric motor on the transfer case. The pump draws vacuum and engages the hubs while the little electric motor on transfer case moves a lever that engages the gears.

Should your vacuum pump fail or you develop a leak in the lines you can engage the hubs manually at the wheel.......the transfer case has to engage though for 4x4 to work.

The vacuum system consists of the vacuum pump, the hoses that run from it down to the hubs and the inboard and outboard orings in the hubs. The outer oring is easily accessible for inspection, cleaning and lubricating. The inboard oring is not accessible until you pull the hub(unit bearing assy).

Vacuum leaks are frequently caused by dry rotting lines going to the hubs. Replace them if you haven't already.


Tbar

 

[rammertide07]

I had an explanation all written out on my Iphone this afternoon but it locked up when I went to send.....typical. lol

You turn the knob on the dash....it activates the vacuum pump and the electric motor on the transfer case. The pump draws vacuum and engages the hubs while the little electric motor on transfer case moves a lever that engages the gears.

Should your vacuum pump fail or you develop a leak in the lines you can engage the hubs manually at the wheel.......the transfer case has to engage though for 4x4 to work.

The vacuum system consists of the vacuum pump, the hoses that run from it down to the hubs and the inboard and outboard orings in the hubs. The outer oring is easily accessible for inspection, cleaning and lubricating. The inboard oring is not accessible until you pull the hub(unit bearing assy).

Vacuum leaks are frequently caused by dry rotting lines going to the hubs. Replace them if you haven't already.


Tbar

Thanks Tbar. Just had the lines replaced 3 months ago. So if the hubs dont engage until the vacume system is turned on, then can I leave my hubs in the clock-wise position? Kinda the main question I've been trying to figure out lol. Thanks again

 

[Tbar]

Thanks Tbar. Just had the lines replaced 3 months ago. So if the hubs dont engage until the vacume system is turned on, then can I leave my hubs in the clock-wise position? Kinda the main question I've been trying to figure out lol. Thanks again

You can......it will engage the axles, increase friction and reduce your fuel mileage. It will also put more working time on the rotating parts.....reducing their life span slightly.


Tbar

On edit.......when you turn the selector switch on the hub you are manually engaging the hubs. This bypasses the vacuum system.


.

 

[rammertide07]

And now the circle is completed. Thank you sir

 

[Tbar]

To summarize........your front tires don't become a driven element in the drive train until two things happen.

1) You engage the hubs via the vacuum system or manually with the selector switch on the hubs(turned clockwise). This locks the axle to the hub.

2) The front drive shaft engages with the transfer case gears with the electric motor.

When the ESOF system is working property both 1 & 2 engage when you turn the 4X high/low switch on the dash.


Tbar

 

[dpantazis]

the locking hub and the unit bearing have the o-rings to create the 'sealed chamber' is that the innards of the locking hub.

inside there is a diaphragm that actuates the sliding locking gear inside the hub to lock the hub to the stub axle.

if you take apart the hubs to clean and grease them, you will see that the diaphragm and the nylon clicky thing that pushes on the gears.

it does not take much force at all to move the slide gear.

when you turn the hub selector manually, it looks like there is an eccentric that moves the diaphragm the same way.

engaging the 4x system or the hubs regularly keeps the grease moving in there.