klinkzor
SDD Junior Member
over the past 5 years with 156k on the clock the motor has only needed oil once and that was do to a lose oil filter. i'm thinking more along the lines of the injectors might be leaking down.
hard starts and smoke
- Thread starter klinkzor
- Start date
GLOW PLUGS
and check the relay..
put a jumper cable from the positive battery terminal to the glow plug side of the relay, and let it sit there for about 20 seconds.
If the motor then fires normally, it's got a **** relay. If it still goes Puff The Magic Dragon, you needum glow plugs.
Last edited:
Tail_Gunner
CRJ & ERJ A&P Mech.
If it takes that long for the startup smoke to clear, you might want to make sure the EBPV is working. When the EBPV is closed you should hear a hissing sound from the tail pipe. When the EBPV closes, it causes the cylinder temps to rapidly rise. The faster you can get cylinder combustion temps up, the sooner that startup smoke will disapate.
My EBPV was removed and a BD exhaust brake was installed. But I can still use it like a manually operated EBPV. As soon as the engine starts, I hit the exhaust brake. The EGT gauge climbs, the engine immediately starts running more smoothly and the startup smoke disapears, all within 20-30 seconds or so.
Seems there's been alota Posts on Start-up, Smoke & Smell this Fall/Winter ?
SOoo.. For those of you that are new to a Diesel or "Wana know, but are hesitant to ask"(?) heres how it all works...... And for those that already know ?.. jus poke the [Back] button
If you Compress <Anything>, at a certain point.. HEAT will be generated. A given.
The principle operation theory of a Diesel engine is Compression & Heat..Compressing AIR to a point where HEAT is generated... spraying a combustible into the Heated air where Detonation/Combustion will occur, WITHOUT any other Ignition source ( like Spark-Plugs ?).
But.. when a Diesel engine is COLD, some of them (IH PSD's) need a little additional HEAT to PRE-HEAT the air in the cylinders @ initial start-up, to assist in achieving sufficient detonation Temps for # 2 Diesel fuel.... Whala (?) Glow Plugs and our.... Wait To Start light. (The Block heater comes in here too.)
However, even with the additional HEAT from the Glow Plugs.. SOME of the #2 Diesel fuel does not Detonate/Combust/Burn completely... Whala: Smoke of various colors.. and the Smell/Stink of un-burnt ULSC, #2 Diesel fuel.... until the Head & Block temperatures reach.. At or Near, Op temps (180/203 degrees) for 3-5 minutes... depending on outside air temps too.
To para-phrase JLD ? Some Smoke & Stink ?... It's concidered normal (incomplete combustion)
It's just The Nature of a Diesel engine to Smoke & Stink some... at start-up.
Joe
Last edited:
DaveBen
SDD Senior Member
Good one Joe. This always happens every winter. Many here don't believe their glow plugs can be bad...
Dave
Dave
platinum01
Full Access Member
Joe you are the man. Maybe we need to make a section for winter time. All things to look for what to do and what to do if certain things happen. Now I am not putting any of the new members down that are new to Diesels because I would much rather them ask us then take it to the dealership and get taken for.
And.. For the New to a PS Diesel guyz'n galz ?? Glow Plugs.
Our Glow Plugs (GPs on here), are simply "Industrial Strength" glow plugs just like the ones used on a RC Model Airplane or Car.. Hook a battery to it (we turn the key on.. the GP relay kicks in), wait a second or two (we have a "wait to start" time) while the glow plug heats up the RC models 1 cylinder & head area (we have 8*), flip the prop, or wheel (we use the Starter) and...... Whala... it Sputters, Shudders, Smokes'n Stinks.. 'til the Head and Cylinder heats up to Operational temps.. for the fuel used.. Disconnect the Battery (our GP relay kicks out)(we should wait a minute or so) then it clears'n smooooths out....... and you Launch it (we drive off) and hope you don't CRASH it.
Our PSD's Start and Launch the same way. Same principle.(we ALSO hope we don't Crash it ?)
Joe
*that means we have 8 GP's and 1 relay to look after, as time goes bye.
Last edited:
klinkzor
SDD Junior Member
i was just wondering if it was something to worry about and couldn't find anything about it.
all the replies have been very helpful and gives me things to look for to fix or check probably not in that order.
can someone tell me where the relay is supposed to be? since my trucks a old porta potti truck they moved stuff around in the engine bay to install a belt drive vacuum and water pump. i know i need to move the ac compressor back to the passanger side but other then that i'm not sure yet.
all the replies have been very helpful and gives me things to look for to fix or check probably not in that order.
can someone tell me where the relay is supposed to be? since my trucks a old porta potti truck they moved stuff around in the engine bay to install a belt drive vacuum and water pump. i know i need to move the ac compressor back to the passanger side but other then that i'm not sure yet.
got a little Off Topic there.The GP Relay is: Looking at the engine, from the front, to the left of Center, near the I/cooler intake tube area.
I always tell folks to Buy a new one, or get another one and Match it to the one thats on the truck. there are 2 solinoid/relays there. Where yous is, after the Porta Pot Mods..... I wouldn't have a clue.
After 156K ? I'd say get a new one and Match it.. where ever it is ??
Joe