GOLD Coolant vs. GREEN Coolant

[bendog]

Heres what my manual says: Add Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant VC-7-A (in Oregon VC-7-B) or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B51-A1 (yellow in color). Do not mix coolant types. Mine was purchased in Or. and has yellow in from the factory but contained no anticav additive.

 

[roosterdiesel]

Mine was purchased in Or. and has yellow in from the factory but contained no anticav additive.

In your other thread you said you have green. Which is it, green or gold?


If you do have the gold(yellow) coolant then added DCA4 to it you need a FULL flush. The spec you posted already has the additive in it and it's not the same additive that goes in the "green" coolant. Also I believe the "gold" needs to be changed every 50k miles.

 

[bendog]

Sorry mine appears green but from reading the manual it seems that depending on state it may be gold (yellow?) or green. I was guessing that green and yellow were the same just different eyeballs looking at them. Am I wrong? I thought the gold was easily identifiable by its orange color not yellow. This just went from simple to complicated.

 

[roosterdiesel]

Sorry mine appears green but from reading the manual it seems that depending on state it may be gold (yellow?) or green. I was guessing that green and yellow were the same just different eyeballs looking at them. Am I wrong? I thought the gold was easily identifiable by its orange color not yellow. This just went from simple to complicated.

Green and Gold are two different coolants and have different colors that are noticeable. From my understanding OEM used the Premium Gold ELC since 2002.

 

[Trapper77]

Yellow is yellow, it is not a shade of green. I bought my truck in Oregon as well and it had yellow coolant in it, I don't think they change the coolant based on delivery of vehicle.

Trapper

 

[bendog]

It seems like the manual says the specifications are VC7-B in oregon but VC7-A everywhere else. VC7-A is premium gold, VC7-B is yellow? So I guess the only thing that matters is; if you have yellow coolant check the anticav? Rooserdiesel, I dont know how to post quotes but what confused me was when you said [if you do have the gold(yellow) coolant then added DCA-4 to it you need a full flush.] in post #12

 

[roosterdiesel]

Gold doesn't need DCA4.....Green does. If you add coolant additive to a HOAT type ELC you will have problems.


If you have more than 45K miles you need to change your coolant anyway.

 

[Digital Oxygen]

Evans Coolant.

'nuff said.

 

[bendog]

Digital oxygen, did you have to change your pump or radiator or anything else? If so what was the cost? What was the total cost, if you dont mind me asking? Looks like a great way to go.

 

[Digital Oxygen]

No Sir...

Did not touch any of the cooling accessories. I did replace the thermostat though. I figured since I was in there, I might as well do some PM.

You just have to make sure you drain the ENTIRE cooling system. That includes pulling the Driver's side drain plug, the Block heater, and ofcourse, draining the radiator. An air compressor also helps when trying to blow the engine and heater core dry. Just make sure your Air pressure regulator is turned down. I used 25psi, and it seemed to work fine. Evans recommends no more than 2% water remain in the system. Ofcourse, the more water you can get out of the system before adding their stuff, the better.

As far as total cost... I bought 8 Gallons (I know, it doesnt take 8, I wanted a couple of gallons as a reserve) of coolant at $32 a gallon, plus shipping of around $50?? or so.