Fuel System Pieces...DIY

roosterdiesel

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CHPMustang said:
I'm sure you'll mention the do's and don't after all's said and done;)


I seem to usually find the don'ts!:roflmao Hopefully it will go without any hitches.-popcorn
 

powerboatr

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Now what do I connect to a temp gauge and what goes to ground?


the stud on the end of the temp sensor I beleive its a 3/8 nut(selflocking) that feed goes to the guage to indicate temps.
then you need to put a grounding clamp on the blue #6 t fitting so it gets a good ground. or the gauge will read irratic. like me...:D
if you dont have a cushion clamp without the cushion, a hose clamp will work,then attatch your ground wire to it. use a good ground up on the firewall
and a note if you use the IDM ground point on the driver side firewall just behind the battery. ensure you retighten it. mine for some unknow reason styed "untightened" and i kept getting truck cut offs like in traffic and around corners.
:roflmao
i wish i could run out and help with the install, :sweet :thumbs
 
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roosterdiesel

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Installed

Well I installed my fuel system today.:D Here's a pic just before leak testing.

View attachment 1177

I still have some tweaking to get it to fit the way I want and will post more later. So far truck runs smoother and a bit quieter. Set the regulator that I got from Powerboatr to 70psi and after running around the corner it was up to 72psi. Pressure bleeds of a little slower than with the stock type DI housing I was using. Takes longer to build pressure too. Holds 70-72 firm with intial throttle tests. I'm off to play more.:burnit
 

Tx_Atty

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man you should have saved this for this weekend when I could learn something! Glad its done. Please tell me it wont work on my engine so I dont start wanting to do the same. just got the gauges in the mail this week and the little woman wont let me do something new already.
 

roosterdiesel

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This weekend I've got the kids. I wanted to get it done, even though it was in the high twenties when I started at 11am.
 

powerboatr

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roosterdiesel said:
Well I installed my fuel system today.:D Here's a pic just before leak testing.

View attachment 1177

I still have some tweaking to get it to fit the way I want and will post more later. So far truck runs smoother and a bit quieter. Set the regulator that I got from Powerboatr to 70psi and after running around the corner it was up to 72psi. Pressure bleeds of a little slower than with the stock type DI housing I was using. Takes longer to build pressure too. Holds 70-72 firm with intial throttle tests. I'm off to play more.:burnit


Antonio
took longer to build pressure? weren't any spiders in any of the fittings were there? :D may need to excersise the regulator adjustment a few times. should build rather quick after the pump comes on, and bleed off by the time you shut off the key , open the door, walk over the hood and look , it should be down to 10 psi or less.
are you still running bio or straight #2
got any pics of it road ready.

anyway glad to see baby installed and doing her thing
 

whatabudro

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Looks good, you should put an 1/8NPT elbow on it for the gauge so you don't have to climb up to see the reading.-popcorn What did the hoses and all the fittings end up costing you?
 

roosterdiesel

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powerboatr said:
...should build rather quick after the pump comes on, and bleed off by the time you shut off the key , open the door, walk over the hood and look , it should be down to 10 psi or less.
are you still running bio or straight #2
got any pics of it road ready.

anyway glad to see baby installed and doing her thing

I'm reading pressure from the gauge on my cowl thats plumbed to the test port in the filter housing. It builds pressure key on just takes a little longer to get to 70...I think the 2 full circuits pressurizing now is the cause. Bleeding time is no problem.:sweet You may want to post what you did to the regulator to get it to do so Robert.

No pics of it really road ready. The way I'm running the return from the drivers front port is causing bracket probs. Got to drill new holes and shorten a couple hoses.

I have some problem area pics that I'll post later for some input on what's the best fix.

The hoses and fittings ran me $118. I had a disc plug turned out to go where the stock FPR goes. The machinist put an o-ring groove and drilled the holes. I gave him my old one to go off of since I was running the DI housing. Home Depot has a 3/8ths compression cap that would work with some shade tree engineering. I bought one but went the other way.

Trucks running smooth and no leaks.:sweet I think it could pass the Wendy's test. :D I hated having to kill it in drive thrus.
 

powerboatr

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i was to wondering about that return line hook up. nice to have a machinist around. the O-ring is a big plus, that was my only occasional source of leaks/seeps.

as for the bleed down....
i will have to dust off the gray matter and find hutchs directions, on filing the bleed ball groove.
I may have to ask him for the write up since the drama stop has nixed me.

great to hear she is quietened down and running good.
:sweet :sweet
 

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