Help Needed Electrical Issues?
- Thread starter saint08
- Start date
Truck didn't crank again this morning. Didn't even have enough juice to turn over. jumped it off, cranked and ran fine. Got to work, let it sit for about 4 hours, went out, cranked it up with no problem and went lunch. Cranked with no problem again when leaving lunch to come back to the office. Can't really pinpoint what the issue is. Everything is as clean as possible. All connections look brand new. I'm going to take it to get the alternator and batteries checked after work. If they say, that the both batteries are good and the alternator is putting out the correct voltage/amps, then it has to be that there is corrosion in the cables that are drawing on the batteries while it’s sitting, right? or is there something else?
has anybody replace their electrical cables? if so, did you have to get them from the dealership?
has anybody replace their electrical cables? if so, did you have to get them from the dealership?
DaveBen
SDD Senior Member
Several people, here, have changed their Battery cables due to corrosion. When you get your batteries checked, have each one checked independently. If not, you can get an erroneous reading.
Dave
Dave
DaveBen
SDD Senior Member
I would not beleive that. The regulator is electronic which means it either works, or it doesn't. It can't be working some times...
Dave
Dave
batteries both tested low voltage, need charging, but good batteries.
Alternator teste: putting out 12.1 volts at idle.
I changed the alternator and charged up the batteries overnight.
Haven't had any issues since.
the guy at the napa store was telling me that if my cables are bad, they'll be "puffy" due to corrosion build up and tha I should be able to clearly see if they're corroded. does that make sense?
Thanks for all your feedback, Dave!
Alternator teste: putting out 12.1 volts at idle.
I changed the alternator and charged up the batteries overnight.
Haven't had any issues since.
the guy at the napa store was telling me that if my cables are bad, they'll be "puffy" due to corrosion build up and tha I should be able to clearly see if they're corroded. does that make sense?
Thanks for all your feedback, Dave!
The "Puffy" cable apperance is a good "sign" for corroded cables but not the only sign.
But in your issues.. I'm thinking it was your Alternator. The output, at Idle, should have been 14.5 volts minimum. It wasn't.
Replaced the Alternator.. Charged up the Batterys.. No problems since.
Problem solved. IMO
Joe
You might just keep an eye on things for awhile, before changing out the cables ??
But in your issues.. I'm thinking it was your Alternator. The output, at Idle, should have been 14.5 volts minimum. It wasn't.
Replaced the Alternator.. Charged up the Batterys.. No problems since.
Problem solved. IMO
Joe
You might just keep an eye on things for awhile, before changing out the cables ??
Last edited:
Tail_Gunner
CRJ & ERJ A&P Mech.
I just finished some intensive study of alternators in the aircraft maintenance school I'm in. We had to pull some alternators apart, inspect the components, test the diodes, and check stator windings and rotors windings for opens. While they are different from cars/trucks, they are very similar.
If you were putting out 12.1 volts, that is low. Charging voltage at idle should be closer to 14v. A fully charged 12v battery will be around 12.8v or higher.
I suspect your alternator crapped a diode which would prevent it from putting out full voltage.
Corroded cable connections will have the same end result as a dead battery. The voltage drop at a corroded connector can be great enough that it'll act just like a dead battery with either slow or no cranking. I've experienced that one first hand. It's amazing how well Coke will clean a battery terminal when you're in a pinch.
Last edited:
