Coolant filter and coolant questions.

[Crumm]

I have a Tymar coolant filter system. You can see a picture of the kit installed HERE. I think adding a coolant filter is a good addition to the system. I have had mine for about a year and a half but I just finally got it installed when I changed my water-pump the other day

 

[Patrick Feeley]

Just for another data point, I've got the "homebrew" coolant filter setup using the NAPA base, but with slightly different fittings and such from that described in Carpentractor's article (but basically the same otherwise). There's a picture in my signature. Cheers!

 

[Renegade]

I cant offer much on the Evans juice as its too spendy for my blood but the coolant filter should be a standard on em all I think.

After installing the IH pump with filter base & a bigtime coolant flush the truck was ran about 2 months & the filter replaced.(non precharged SCAfilter) It looked worse than the one in carpentractors page with all the fine grit & white looking scale in the bottom after tearing apart the filter Now I know why seals & hoses go bad over time pumping that abrasive around all the time.

Since then & a couple filters later the last one I tore apart was still pretty clean with little to no sediment in the can.

Cheers

 

[KansasDiesel]

I know there are kits out there, but I would like to watch my $$$. I see that Patrick Feeley has a home brew system.

Are the filters special for coolant? what type of filters does it need to be? any DIY p/n's for filters or the base?

 

[Patrick Feeley]

The filter base (and general design) I used is in this article: "Coolant Filter". I changed a few of the fittings and modified the base for a lower profile with fewer joints (not as many NPT nipples). The coolant filters are exactly that and can be had with various levels of SCA charge (to maintain the additive level), or none at all (if you prefer to add it yourself). Cheers!

 

[KansasDiesel]

The filter base (and general design) I used is in this article: "Coolant Filter". I changed a few of the fittings and modified the base for a lower profile with fewer joints (not as many NPT nipples). The coolant filters are exactly that and can be had with various levels of SCA charge (to maintain the additive level), or none at all (if you prefer to add it yourself). Cheers!

I will start hunting down the parts. How does one know what SCA charge you need? is too high of charge bad?

I am converting my truck to WVO soon and that will add probably 2 more gallons of coolant. will that matter on the SCA charge as well? When I do this I will be flushing the whole system. so what should I start out with as far as a SCA charge?

I have added the additive but am really unsure what is required.

I know a ton of questions, but It has never been explained to me why and how much for this additive.

Thanks for your help.

 

[BJS]

KD,

Your local parts store(napa) should be able to get you coolant test strips autozone & the like have no clue what you're talking about at least around here anyway. You will need to increase the volume of the cooling system for the calculations on how much SCA to add when you're low. If you have a level that is too high then you get precipitation of the particles and you have yet even more abrasives floating around your cooling system.

The additive is relatively cheap 5 or so per pint I think it's been a while since I bought some. the additive is to prevent cavitation pinholes in your cylinder from the coolant passages. Due to the high compression of a diesel there are microscopic bubbles that form on the coolant passage walls near the cylinders from the expansion contraction of the cylinder wall when these rupture it's a small explosion and results in a slight degredation of the wall over time you can get a hole through the entire wall. The additive forms a sacrificial layer so you don't have that problem.

 

[95_stroker]

KD,

Putting the stuff together yourself is a fine idea, and the site that Patrick linked has most of the PN#'s to do it with too. I researched those PN#'s at NAPAOnline and came up with about $60.00 for the filter base and filter combo, thats not including fittings, mounting bracket and any hose if you need to replace that. Bob Rileys kit is $79.00. So, sometimes going on your own might not save much in the end.

 

[KansasDiesel]

KD,

Your local parts store(napa) should be able to get you coolant test strips autozone & the like have no clue what you're talking about at least around here anyway. You will need to increase the volume of the cooling system for the calculations on how much SCA to add when you're low. If you have a level that is too high then you get precipitation of the particles and you have yet even more abrasives floating around your cooling system.

The additive is relatively cheap 5 or so per pint I think it's been a while since I bought some. the additive is to prevent cavitation pinholes in your cylinder from the coolant passages. Due to the high compression of a diesel there are microscopic bubbles that form on the coolant passage walls near the cylinders from the expansion contraction of the cylinder wall when these rupture it's a small explosion and results in a slight degredation of the wall over time you can get a hole through the entire wall. The additive forms a sacrificial layer so you don't have that problem.

Thanks for the education, is there anyway of knowing if you have degredation of the wall? or how much?

Is the additive avaliable at NAPA as well? and what am I looking for?

 

[KansasDiesel]

95 stroker,

I will research that thanks.