Changing Clutch Checklist

[Hoss 350]

Getting started tomorrow

My plan of attack on the truck goes something like this...

1.) drop front and rear drive lines
2.) drain t-case and tranny fluid
3.) disconnect T-cooler lines and clutch/t-case linkage
4.) Remove shifter handle
5.) Support trans with jack.
6.) remove cross member
7.) Remove bell-housing bolts
8.) drop trans
9.) Remove shifter fork and T-out bearing
10.) Replace fork and T-out bearing
11.) remove pressure plate, disc and flywheel
12.) reinstall new flywheel, disc, pressure plate with alignment tool in place, torque bolts
13.) Jack tranny into place, bolt up bellhousing
14.) replace crossmember
15.) remove jack
16.) reconnect linkage, cooler lines, shifter
17.) put fluid in trans/t-case
18.) put drive lines back on.

Drive the truck. Can you see if I forgot anything? I think I already see something, probably have to drop the starter motor...

How do you break in a clutch? It has been years since I've done this, and I cannot remember. Slip it lots? Not slip it at all? Drive it like normal?

 

[DaveBen]

Drive it normal. Don't slip it or you can glaze it over and it will be needing a new one, again.

Dave

 

[roosterdiesel]

Well I raced at the first DHRA races of the year in Lubbock three days and about 150 miles after the install of my SBC. Around 2400 rpm and dumped the clutch.


From what I understand the SBC's don't like to be slipped! I'd drive it like you normally drive it.

 

[Hoss 350]

Do I need to put grease on the input shaft? I remember something about grease where the clutch disc and input shaft go together, but i can't remember if it was a "don't" or a "do". I would think grease would be bad in a clutch, so i wanted to make sure...

 

[roosterdiesel]

I've read where people recommend using a good high-temp grease there but I'm am not positive if it's a good idea. Sorry for not helping!

 

[DaveBen]

Hi temp grease is a good idea for the input shaft. Just a dab and not a lot.

Dave

 

[Hoss 350]

Well, got started Sunday Morning. 3 hours, had the tranny on the floor, and the new clutch/flywheel installed. Not too bad. Then, trying to put the tranny back on....

4 1/2 hours later, it still will not align. I was so frustrated I couldn't even speak. Put it back on the floor, and left it. It is still sitting there, waiting for me to come fight it tonight after work. I think the alignment tool isn't doing it's job, because just before I went in for the night, I eyeballed the clutch disc to pilot bearing alignment, and the hub looked too low for the pilot. Grr. I would have had the whole thing done in 6 hours if it weren't for my lack of experience in doing clutch jjobs (only done it once before about 10 years ago on a Ford Courier) and knowing not to trust the alignment tool. My Dad says that he has never had an alignment tool align for him without his having to eyeball it on top of using the tool. Wish I would have known that.

All in all, I like dropping automatic trannies much better than manuals (I've done that a BUNCH of times) because they have the access cover that allows you to see the shaft go into the hole. Anyway, I wish like hell I had one of you guys out there with me. Tough to do by yourself.

 

[roosterdiesel]

-popcorn Any luck with the tranny? I can see where this tranny wouldn't be fun. Aluminum T-10's in my F-bodies aren't too bad. Wish I could lend a hand!


Autos are nice to drop but I'd rather drive a stick shift!

 

[Hoss 350]

-popcorn Any luck with the tranny? I can see where this tranny wouldn't be fun. Aluminum T-10's in my F-bodies aren't too bad. Wish I could lend a hand!


Autos are nice to drop but I'd rather drive a stick shift!

Yeah, i got it to go in last night. Got the bellhousing and crossmember bolted back on, then I had to go in and go to bed. Should have it driving down the road this evening once i get out of the office.

Still have to figure out how to get the T-case up and in place, and start the bolt all at once by myself.

I did not work on it Monday night at all, I had a bid going out yesterday that I worked on late. It was an alignment issue. I think I am going to do a write-up on pulling the trans and changing the clutch to share some of the stuff I've learned in the process. It would be SOOO much easier to do it a second time. Probably wouldn't even take 6 hours, if that.

This trans is one HEAVY SOB. I would recommend anyone trying to do this do two things. First, get a tranny jack. If the trans were to roll off of your floor jack, you wouldn't be able to stop it, and it would most likely kill you. Second, split the trans and T-case. I tried to get the tranny up with the t-case on it, but that SUCKED. Took the T-case off (only six bolts, BFD...) and it was WAY easier.

I can't wait to be out driving my truck.

Did anybody else notice that the clutch pedal goes in WAY easier with the SB clutch? It almost feels like it doesn't want to come up off the floor. I ahve heard this is normal, what are your experiences?

 

[Frankenstien]

You'll find in most cases when changing a Hydraulic clutch the Peddal will be soft for the first handfull of endgagments.... It will firm up. Had I seen you post earlier I could swong over and help ya out as I was down in Lewiston/Clarkston A few days ago ....