Boat Problems

[02SilverStroke]

Bring
Out
Another
Thousand

The two happiest days of a boat owners life: The day he buys it and the day he sells it!

 

[powerboatr]

hoss
you mentioned you squrted teh weights with carb cleaner
uh my friend the carb cleaner is a NO NO on weights and springs
springs have alkmost zero corrosin resistance and carb cleaner wil eat off any protection you may have had, and they wil get pits in the areas where the weights pivot on the shfats and the springs will rust together.
whats the humidty where you are???


its called crevice corrosin and its a eater of metal

open em up for grins and clean em real good then apply some crc spray or light oil to teh mechanism see if it helps

i think jacobs has a set of electronic stuff for 100 or so

 

[95_stroker]

really??? How much coin? I was thinking around 100 to 150 bucks. Hope it isn't a whole lot more.

I was thinking around 2 bills, which isnt insane but compared to a set of points and a condensor.

 

[Hoss 350]

hoss
you mentioned you squrted teh weights with carb cleaner
uh my friend the carb cleaner is a NO NO on weights and springs
springs have alkmost zero corrosin resistance and carb cleaner wil eat off any protection you may have had, and they wil get pits in the areas where the weights pivot on the shfats and the springs will rust together.
whats the humidty where you are???

SEE??? I told you us young bucks don't know crap about all this mechanical, carbureted, points having mumbo-jumbo!!! Humidity is like highland arizona. Pretty dry. I have to humidify the house in the winter to keep our noses from bleeding... However, under the cover of the boat motor, at 200 degrees, with water dripping out of the manifolds (small cracks sealed up with JB weld... HAHA) the humdity is plenty high.

its called crevice corrosin and its a eater of metal

I HATE it when my crevice corrodes!!

open em up for grins and clean em real good then apply some crc spray or light oil to teh mechanism see if it helps

Or just tear them out!!! And.....

i think jacobs has a set of electronic stuff for 100 or so

SOLD!!!!!

I'll get this thing modernized yet! That's one thing about us young bucks, we don't see the need to learn about all the mechanical crap because we just tear it out and replace it with something better. Impatience of youth and all!!

 

[pdt1081]

I've been having troubles with my 1985 Bayliner, OMC Stringer outdrive, GM smallblock V8 engine. Seems like there is always someone on here that knows the answer, so here is my problem.

Oldsmobile or Chevy engine? If it's an Oldsmobile, check out www.realoldspower.com. I'm guessing Chevy motor if it's an 85 smallblock.

Have you refilled the gas tank or are you still running the tank with the Stabil in it?

Best way to check for manifold leaks is to take starter fluid and spray each runner where it meets the head. If the motor revs you know you got a leak.

How hot are the fuel lines going to the carb when this happens? How old is the fuel pump? You might have a weak fuel pump or be heat soaking the gas before it gets to the carb.

All things to check if your conversion to electronic ignition doesn't do the trick. We had a problem with one of our pulling motors that would only turn so many RPM's once loaded. Different cam and heads didn't fix the problem. Turned out to be a very weak fuel pump. Problem fixed now.

 

[Hoss 350]

Oldsmobile or Chevy engine? If it's an Oldsmobile, check out www.realoldspower.com. I'm guessing Chevy motor if it's an 85 smallblock.

Have you refilled the gas tank or are you still running the tank with the Stabil in it?

Best way to check for manifold leaks is to take starter fluid and spray each runner where it meets the head. If the motor revs you know you got a leak.

How hot are the fuel lines going to the carb when this happens? How old is the fuel pump? You might have a weak fuel pump or be heat soaking the gas before it gets to the carb.

All things to check if your conversion to electronic ignition doesn't do the trick. We had a problem with one of our pulling motors that would only turn so many RPM's once loaded. Different cam and heads didn't fix the problem. Turned out to be a very weak fuel pump. Problem fixed now.

Yeah, fuel pump is totally on my list of things to look into. It is the factory original, from 1985, as far as I know. The only problem is the nature of the problem, the way it flips on and off like a switch, almost, makes me think it has to be electronic.

I think what I'm going to do, is get a whole new distributor, instead of just doing an electronic conversion, since I have ideas that the mechanical advance may be playing a part. I was going to rob a distributor off of a donor truck from a junkyard. Maybe I'll grab a fuel pump while I'm there, just for kicks and giggles. To change out both of them won't take half an hour.

I know, all you get from a junkyard is junk, but I'm working on a hunch, not a sure thing. If I find out that is really the problem, I can always get a new pump from the parts store later.

 

[Hoss 350]

Now, wait a second, Hoss, let's think about this...

I see a points to electronic conversion kit, and also a mechanical advance replacement kit.

Now, I'm thinking maybe KEEP my distributor, replace the mechaincal advance weights and springs ($4.95 for the kit) and put in an electronic conversion ($59.99). So, for less than $70, I can eliminate both points and advance as a possibility.

The only question is...

How hard is it to change the mechanical advance parts? I know how to the electronic conversion, but is the mechanical advance stuff pretty difficult?

 

[acjjkamp]

just another thought for you to try...
my brothers boat did this when it got warmed up, he had vapor lock. took off the fuel cap and it ran great. also like PB said, check your fuel lines.
good luck

 

[JLDickmon]

first thing I'd do, is a pressure and volume check on the fuel pump.

that being said, an HEI-1 distributor (the one with the coil in the cap) is the set up... all you need is one switched 12v wire to run the whole system...

now... here's where it gets technical... if it's run-stutter-run-stutter-run it's probably electrical

run-bog (still smooth but just no guts) -run-bog-run, it's fuel

remember... stutter is runs inconsistently... bog is run with no power...

 

[W4RLR]

Go electronic ignition...you will not regret it.

"Diva" 4.3L 175 hp Mercruiser, Thunderbolt Electronic ignition.

Richard