96 F350 Died on highway

[KansasDiesel]

After all this cranking is it possible you starved out the hpop resevoir? Sounds like you need to check your hpop pressure. If you have laptop software it should give you an ICP reading you can convert to psi. If you can make 500 psi hpop it will start if you are getting fuel and voltage to your injectors. If they passed the buzz test that means the pcm can get voltage to them and you said you have fuel, so has to be hpop system as long as the cps is good so the pcm knows when to fire them. Don't overlook the wiring to your ipr valve, I've been there. Remeber KISS keep it simple stupid, had one eat my lunch at work the other day cause customer crossed up the 5 and 3 plug wires on a 4.3 chevy. Stupid thing is thats the first thing I checked, just lost the wires in the wire loom I guess

I will check that tomorrow, I have run out of time and daylight today. It makes sence though. I will connect the laptop and check those pressures.
Thanks

 

[Crumm]

I was moved off of the 911 truck down forum I guess the others are more important issues..

You are just as important as anyone else. If you look in the 911 forum there is a redirect to this thread. I am not the one who moved it but whoever did was trying to help by getting you double exposer. Many of the 94-97 guys don't visit the 911 forum. By having a redirect in the 911 and the thread here you get twice the help

Now back to the problem. Do you have a battery charger? I would recommend getting the battery's charged up a little more. I have heard of numerous rigs that crank just fine but just don't have quite the umph to fire although they sound fine. 10 volts while cranking is not enough..

 

[JOAT]

Batteries are important, but would not have caused the initial stall. The CPS rarely quits cold, without allowing a restart again.
Check all your fuses, and check the wiring and pull the chip first, then;

-Speculation/SWAG based on your description....

The Buzz test is an audible test. It won't really give you an error, other than helping differentiate which injectors sound weak. Which one was weak? First all buzz, then they go in numbered order 1-8

I wonder if one of your injector poppets stuck open.
-first check the HPOP level, confirm it's got oil.
-If you have a 5000 psi guage, hook it to one of the high pressure oil rail plugs and see if it goes ove 500 psi cranking. Less and the PCM wont fire the injectors. (You should also be able use ICP readings to check pressure, with a scantool or a frequency meter).
-without a gauge you can pull the valve cover for the weak injector and watch the oil deflectors while cranking. They should all be about the same amount of oil bleeding off. If the weak sounding one is spewing all the oil, you'll never build pressure.

 

[twildman]

Ok, I just noticed in your sig that you might be running on veggie oil? Are you?

 

[KansasDiesel]

Ok, I just noticed in your sig that you might be running on veggie oil? Are you?

Yes running veggie, But this has happened all on diesel. I am also not a newbie on veggie. Have been running for 2 1/2 years with no problems at all.

 

[KansasDiesel]

Batteries are important, but would not have caused the initial stall. The CPS rarely quits cold, without allowing a restart again.
Check all your fuses, and check the wiring and pull the chip first, then;

-Speculation/SWAG based on your description....

The Buzz test is an audible test. It won't really give you an error, other than helping differentiate which injectors sound weak. Which one was weak? First all buzz, then they go in numbered order 1-8

I wonder if one of your injector poppets stuck open.
-first check the HPOP level, confirm it's got oil.
-If you have a 5000 psi guage, hook it to one of the high pressure oil rail plugs and see if it goes ove 500 psi cranking. Less and the PCM wont fire the injectors. (You should also be able use ICP readings to check pressure, with a scantool or a frequency meter).
-without a gauge you can pull the valve cover for the weak injector and watch the oil deflectors while cranking. They should all be about the same amount of oil bleeding off. If the weak sounding one is spewing all the oil, you'll never build pressure.

*Chip removed
*I had 1 fuse blown #21 to the brake controler. Wiring diag shows that's the only place it goes.
*Last time I cranked yesterday it threw P1212 Injector pressure, Filled the HPOP with oil. This keeps being thrown after a long cranking.
* During cranking after the HPOP was filled the Injector pressure ( on the computer ) slowly increased t0 2500 psi.
*Buzz test did show I have one injector week, even though the computer said everything passed.

Looks like tomorrow I start under the valve cover

Thanks for your help, I hope the current information helps figure this out.

 

[twildman]

Is your fuel heater unplugged?

 

[JOAT]

Injector pressure code won't set immediately, but it may have been set from draining the HPOP res. However with the ICP showing pressure building I doubt it is the IPR or stuck injector poppet. Still, with the valve covers off you can see if they are squirting oil. Better yet, pull a valve cover plug, stick an AC voltmeter ground to either wire next to center, and see if it's electrically trying to fire them.

 

[KansasDiesel]

Is your fuel heater unplugged?

The fuel heater in the fuel filter housing?? I no longer have the stock fuel filter housing, Electric fuel system for diesel, and seperate fuel filter.

 

[twildman]

The reason I ask about the veggie oil, is it has been known to mess with the injectors after awhile. I don't suppose you have any other injectors laying around gathering dust do you?