6.0 EGR info

Dale_Lakin

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Borrowed this from Jim Warman on 6.0 Forum excellent description as to how the EGR system works...


I wont pretend to know everything about EGR strategy on the 6.0, but I have a bit of a handle on it.... Lord knows I've stared at WDS recordings until I'm cross-eyed.

Lets take a look at the EGR in it's most basic form. It's sole purpose is to reduce combustion chamber temps to prevent the formation of oxides of nitrogen (the component of tailpipe emissions that reacts with sunlight to for a brown haze... not to mention that it ain't good for us.).

Let's remember that the diesel EGR works when a gas EGR wouldn't and vice versa.... When the PCM sees power levels that it's programming thinks will result in combustion chamber temps (around 1400F, IIRC) in the NOx forming region, it will add inert gas in the form of spent exhaust gasses to the combustion chamber to reduce the temperature.

This dilution of the intake charge means that will be more space between oxygen molecules and somehow (I'm no engineer) reduces the CC temps.

Just the theory of operation indicates that it will reduce the power output of the motor but the trade off is reduced tailpipe emissions.

Coincidentally, EGR flow at idle serves to reduce the cackle effect of the compression/ignition engine giving a quieter idle. Changing injector pulse width wont work in this case because the engine depends on continued fuel flow for at least some time after combustion is initiated tomaintain idle speed and cylinder pressures. Pilot injection didn't work because the mechanical part of the injector couldn't keep up with the electronic part of the injector. Split shot injectors wont work because of other combustion issues (please don't ask... I have a pretty good picture in my mind but I don't think I can translate "redheadese" into anything intelligible without rambling).

Now comes the obligatory IMHO part... do I like what the EGR does for my planet??? Yes.... Do I like how it is working out??? No..... Is there programming I'd like to see changed?? Yes.... Would my ideas adversely affect other parameters??? More than likely.....Do I disconnect or defeat them??? No.... If we stop having warranty EGR claims, Ford will never actually fix the problem since it will quietly go away on it's own... all the while failing to address the concern it was designed for.

At this time, I don't know of any EGR equipped diesels that aren't having the same concerns as the 6.0.... even the Volkswagen diesel suffers badly - worse than any others during extreme cold temps...... remembering my idea of "extreme" cold is a lot different than 90% of this planets inhabitants...

HTH
 
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ISurvivedNMU

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In there I was hoping to find the performance woes with adding a more breathable system. And also from reading, it seems that the egr increases our EGT's, not decreases... Whew, to much info..
 

_CH_

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ISurvivedNMU said:
And also from reading, it seems that the egr increases our EGT's, not decreases...

just another reason that EGRs are evil
 

ktpauley

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Here is another one. At 11K miles had to have the EGR replaced. Now at 15K miles the throttle plate is being replaced. The early '03's didn't have the throttle plate, and I don't think the '05's don't have the throttle plate either. Just another reason to ****can this stuff. Keith
 

ktpauley

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To get around the EGR buy a second one (dummy EGR). Plug the connector into the dummy EGR and wire tie out of the way. To remove the throttle plate yopu need a magnetic tip. I think the 2 screws are torx, but can't remember the size. ISurvivedNMU, you might not even have the throttle plate. I'll have to do a search on the other site as somebody posted good directions on how to remove the throttle plate. Keith
 

ISurvivedNMU

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Thats what i am looking for KT.. If you find the info... link it up for everyone...

BTW, I will not be able to see it... so copy over here what you can.
 

ktpauley

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I found the directions on how to remove the throttle plate. It was hidden in the archives.

The intercooler hose just behind the top of the radiator (the hose that blows off) connects to an elbow. Three bolts hold this eblow down, from memory I believe two of the bolts are 6mm and one is 8 or vice versa. The throttle plate is spring loaded and is held captive in a slotted shaft by two small torx head screws, I forget the size.
Facing the front of the engine you loosen the left hose clamp and move it to the right and tighten it so it doesn't slip off or down. Next remove the three bolts holding the elbow down. Next lift the elbow slightly and pull it to the left to remove it from the hose you loosened the clamp on. Be careful not to loose the O-ring on the bottomof the elbow. Next look into the hole you opened up by removing the elbow, if you have a throttle plate you will see the edge of it. With your finger, push the throttle plate closed (spring loaded) and remove the two torx head screws being careful not to drop them into the that open hole and being careful not to strip the head, use good torx head tools, not the cheapees. Next, while still holding the throttle plate, carefully allow the throttle plate back up and slide it out of the slotted shaft. Replace the elbow into the hose and then seat it, replace the bolts, loosen the clamp and slide it back into position and retighten..... all done.

Hope this helps everyone.

Keith
 

Pile Buck

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Hi there guys, this is my first post on this site! Just yesterday I was told about this site! Starting lurking around this morning. Came across this thread, thought I would give my 2-cents, and ask a question, if I can figure out how to post a picture. All these sites seem to be just a little bit different! Anyway, A few months ago I bought a dummy EGR, built a housing for it and mounted it to the alternator. I can’t believe the difference in horsepower! Remember now my truck weighs 12,000 wet. Now for my question about the throttle plate, is it under this 90° elbow used for the cold side of the intercooler? Thanks in advance for your help! PB
 

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