JOAT
I Found Nemo!
shannoncaldwell said:Don, would you mind sharing your process for settling/filtering your WVO and also how you are heating your fuel system in your truck?
I've been planning to get some pics and do just that . I've been revising my filtration setup recently so still fine tuning. Will cover my filtration evolution in sort of a ramble/blog for now.
As far as the truck goes, a little more insulation and I could likely run partially hydrogenated to zero temps (tested to 30°F as is).
-I have a loop of aluminum tube in a bed mounted tank for coolant heat
-3' of HIH between the tank and filter (FS1000)
-Heater hose coiled around the filter
-5' of HIH between the pump and regulator (at engine)
-HOH everywhere else and pipe insulation on everything too
My pre filtering setup is a bit elaborate and I'm altering it as I go to see what may work for a mobile filtering setup. I use about 80% partially hydrogenated, and most of it is full of fine sediment that doesn't settle well but will clog canister and water filters fast. Also partially hydrogenated won't settle well unless it's kept warm (and without currents). Do-able stationary with insulated tanks but not practical mobile. On the plus side the sediment seems to help remove the suspended water, so extended settling for water removal hasn't been a big concern.
Currently there are extra pre-treating/settling stages at home, that I'm experimenting with mostly eliminating for mobile:
-first the raw stuff with water etc is poured through a strainer or course filter bag into a 55 gallon drum at ground level (this barrel mostly for my convenience).
-It is then heated to about 120°F (2kw 110V water heater element) then allowed to sit a couple hours
-next the oil above 6" is pumped up to a second drum and reheated to about 130°.
-After sitting awhile (1-2 hours), the oil above 6" gravity flows through a 100-150 micron filter-bag into a 3rd drum.
From this point is where alot of experimentation has been done.
For a long time I have been pumping the heated pre-settled oil into barrels in the attic and allowing gravity to take it thru various filter setups. Mostly I have been trying to get it to work consistently thru the big air filter like FN74 used, but there were issues. As long as the oil was fairly clean to begin with it worked well. Problem with hydrogenated is as it cools it gets thick, so as extra dirty oil slowed the filtration, the oil thickened and clogged the filter (and hoses) solid.
I then tried putting the filter in the heated drum and pumping thru it. Worked much better but it doesn't take alot of sediment to clog the filter, then vacuum goes up, distorting it and allowing more stuff thru, which clogs the more expensive final filters faster.
Bounty paper towels wrapped around the big air filter extend it's life. As filtration slows just peel a layer off. The big filter is not real ideal as a support tho as it is $16 and crushes rather easily. Let the bounty clog, the pump will pull down to under 25" vacuum, and the filter collapses like a crushed beer can. I decided to dump this filter and build a strong support for a Bounty only suction filter.
View attachment 1169
Basically, it uses a 10" wide roll of expanded metal mesh (near the roof flashing at home depot). It was unrolled enough to fit tightly in two 4" ABS caps, then glued in place with polyurethane sealant. The one in the pic is attached to 1/2" pipe (used an old cast iron skillet for a base). The pipe basically makes a u turn, and goes thru a pipe clamp bolted to the side of the barrel. This allows it to be raised easily for bounty peeling or replacement. Since it sticks up a bit I invert a can or pail over it to allow it to filter the barrel lower. It sits up enough to stay above the 6" or so I leave in the bottom for sediment and water. The towel overlaps the caps a bit, and suction pulls it tight, sealing it. The multiple layers of mesh underneath form a strong support that doesn't crush.
I have a vacuum gauge between the pump and filter to monitor restriction.
In practice I tape 3-4 layers bounty on first (blue masking tape surprisingly works very well in heated oil!). Then I put on several layers over that. I've used it in oil so dirty that I had to peel a layer every 1-2 inches of oil. Also held off peeling till the bounty was clogged enough that the pump was pulling over 25" vacuum, and no failures. I estimate the bounty achieves better than 15 micron filtration, based on the next filters life.
While the suction of the pump (currently a craftsman drill powered pump, $8) is connected to the Bounty filter, the output is connected to both final filters.
View attachment 1170
First is a ($16) water filter housing, with the white fiber 5-15 micron element from home depot. Next is a 10 micron Fleetguard FS1000 (was 20 micron FS1212 in pic). Before each filter is a pressure gauge so I can tell when to change filters. Haven't had to yet as the Bounty works so well.
Eventually I'm thinking of adapting the setup for truck or trailer mounted filtration. The biggest drawback is dirty oil makes the bounty peeling kind of time consuming. Using cleaner oil can get 20+ gallons thru before peeling tho, @ 1-4 gallons per minute.
Last edited: