What improvements have you made?

[bushpilot]

I mounted two bright lights on the backend with a dash-mounted switch. With my tinted windows and long bed it makes seeing behind me while backing up at night a lot easier.

agreed...its a necessary add-on.
even w/ the factory tint (non-up front) i was using
the mirrors....

the factory reverse lights are crap...i even installed 55w halogen
replacement bulbs (but thats a waste of beer money)...tinted
windows or not you need bckup lights under the bumper...

kc hi-lites makes a nice kit, wires & relay all included (or you can
just look at their wiring diagram on their web site & follow it)...and
save yourselves some mo-la

mine are wired to the factory reverse bulb (as the trigger)...BUT
i added the switch so i could turn 'em on when hooking up a trailer
or blinding some idiot whos riding behind me w/ his hi-beams on...

w/ the switch i dont have to have the truck in reverse to turn
the aux-reverse fog lights on.

heres the wire diagram from KC... their KIT (w/ lights & relay, but
w/out a switch) can be had for about 59 or 69 bucks from
stylin concepts or jcwhitney

 

[bushpilot]

could you elaborate about the sound deadening material you used on the back walls, i looked at some stuff for marine engine boxes with lead in it, but its awfully heavy, thanks

i could...adn will try to make it brief...
the material i used is like dyna-mat...only cheaper, sticky-er
and therefore easier to apply.

i used HUSH MAT and anyone that tells you itll take you only
100sq feet is a lier...i probably have that on the doors alone.

heres an example of someone else's application of a sim. material
*cheaper* still than even the hush mat stuff...

http://www.b-quiet.com/f350.html

you may want to consider adding some carpet padding or foam
(b-quiet) makes something appropriate.

the heavy "mat" stuff is for vibration deading although it does
create a sound BARRIER too...the foam based stuff (also w/
an easy to apply sticky backing) ABSORBS sound...

when i do the floor of my truck ill add some insulation (carpet type
or foam) after i apply the sound deading mat to the floor.

i saw what i would consider to be a huge reduction in noise
from the application to all four doors....and i was after heat
reduction by applying it to the roof...this is my 1st season in
houston w/ it on the roof but so far it seems to be doing well
& isnt MELTING off.

 

[bushpilot]

and while were on the the subject of backing up (or SEEING behind us)...
i have these too...i bought 'em thinking id remove 'em when i wasnt
towing...but ive NEVER removed 'em since having installed 'em...

theyre another necessary option on our 22ft long trucks...

http://www.qwks.com/C-Betr-Mirror-Set-p-3.html

 

[Maxtor]

Upfitter switches

I think I will wire the rear lights into one of the upfitter switches. Might as well use them sence they are there.
As for the 6spd manual trans, at first I found it a little difficult getting used to the shifting pattern, but now it is smooth as silk, and no problem finding first gear. I am very glad that I chose a manual transmission.
I do not use low gear, but I expect that when I am pulling the 5th wheel, starting up a grade from a stop, I will use low to get started and then shift to first. The gears are labeled low, 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and overdrive. 4th is direct drive. As I said before, the only time I would use low is when from a stop going up a steep hill while pulling a heavy load, or if I were in Los Angeles in stop and go traffic. (Not likely...). I consider anything south of Red Bluff to be another country.
Kleetus try puting 70 psi in the tires and see if you gain some mpg. It might be worth 1 mpg. One is better than none.

 

[powerboatr]

bushpilot
many thanks, that looks to be an inexspensive comfort mod that just got added to the list.

i never thought about not having any thermal barrier installed from the factory, between the interior headliner and the roof, i thought they put something up there.

 

[bushpilot]

bushpilot
many thanks, that looks to be an inexspensive comfort mod that just got added to the list.

i never thought about not having any thermal barrier installed from the factory, between the interior headliner and the roof, i thought they put something up there.

its a DIY mod, and expense is realitive i guess...if you plan ahead and
buy the b-quiet material <on-line> youll be doing it as cheap as
can be done....buy more than you think youll need (nooks/crannies &
odd shapes/curves use up more than you think)....you can apply the
left over stuff to the wifes car...

theres NOTHING on the roof other than the headliner...and the
headliner is made in part of fiberglass/backing that has the "cloth"
headliner applied to it...wear long sleeves & gloves !

the the metal re-inforcing "frame" of the roof isnt even welded or
tied to the roof (its gotta be a source of noice/vibration & harshness)...

im told by some that you can bend/fold the headliner to get it out
of the crew cab...it seemed too rigid to me...so i just shifted the
headliner back and forth, front to rear, rear to front & side to side
to get the material applied (wasnt too back 'cept it was about a
ba-zillion degrees out by the time i finished in the afternoon.

if you own an extra-cab w/ the suicide doors you shouldnt have
to fold the headliner to get it outta the truck after droping it down.

the headliner is held in place by the dome lights, visors, trip computer
& other trim bits.

nice thing too (since your diy-ing this) is you can do it as time
allows (i did the front doors 1st, then the rear doors & rear wall, then
the roof).

while i had the headliner down i used my time wisely and installed
the IR Emitter for the headphones...which connects to a 14" laptop
that plays dvd's (on the front/center fold down arm rest)...the kids
love it !

 

[nascar_fan28]

yeah at first its lil rough.. but now ok, i just hate how low 1st is,, i take off alot in 2nd, and 4th seems too low to.. if you get high rpms in 3rd its almost a downshift going to 4th... i like the 5spd in older dodge cummins.. the gearing, not the crapy transmission

 

[architect-builder]

Here is the official FS&SDD mod list, for whom ever is interested:

Wheels
Tires
Leveling Kit
Dual Exhaust
Guages
On Board Air
Air Horns
Clear Clearance Lights
Running Board LED's
Auxillary Reverse Lights
Warn 16.5ti Winch
Warn SS Transformer
Billet Badges
GPS
DVD w/ Headrest Screens
Edge Juice w//Attitude
Brown Bread
Pro Flaps
Working interior lights on the door trim front and rear
Lockable underbed 6" PVC storage cylinders
12V outlets under the hood and in the bed in waterproof housings
110v waterproof outlet in the bed
Speaker jacks in waterproof enclosures in the bed
Quick disconnect air fittings under the hood and in the bed in waterproof enclosure
12v rechargable magLight next to the drivers seat
Fire extinguishers mounted on either side of the rear seat
Floor lighting near the floor on the door pillars
Wilson 5K hard mounted roof CB antenna
Wilson hard mounted roof cell phone antenna
Dashmat
LED cup holder and ashtray lights
12v lid activated lights in the console
Upgraded stereo system w/new speakers
F&R Helwig anti sway bars
MagHytec differential cover with syn fluid added
24" Silicone Wipers
Rancho front end stabilizer
Chrome Tow Hooks
Wrangler NorthWest SubStation
Power tail gate lock
C-BET'R auxilary mirrors
Bilstein shocks
Velvet Ride shackles
AFE ProGuard 7
A/T Revo's
VentShades
SilverStars
SUV head light harnesses
Undercab security lights

I'm only part way there however.

Barrett

 

[Maxtor]

Wow...

If it is not on your list, it probably can't be done.