mine was listed for 22k when i see it..talked them down to 18k before i went to look at it..couldnt get him lower...went and looked at it..drove it..put it on a lift..talked him down to 17k..wouldnt go any lower he said..took 15k in cash out of my pocket layed it on the hood..told him im going down to look at another one for 15k....if i dont like ill see what i can do...put the cash back in my pocket..got in my car ..when i start to drive off ...he runs up to me as i was pulling out...he ask..will 15k stop me...i shut my car off and bought my truck.....money talks loud and clear..this was posted by a friend of mine.. good luck to ya...
a few things to check out..
1. Visual: Body and rust are obvious items, nonspecific.
A. Engine
1) Check for any obvious fluid leaks, especially the engine valley, tranny weep hole area, and around the turbo and pedestal.
2) Check coolant with strips and find out the record of any changes or water pump replacement based on mileage.
3) If possible, do compression check, and Cylinder contribution test.
4) Inspect turbo inlet side vanes, should be straight and not dusted or jagged. Try to move the shaft in and out and up and down. Any real noticeable movement by hand is bad. Open and inspect air cleaner assembly for an idea of how it was maintained.
5) If possible, have fuel pressure tested at engine to check pump.
6) Check all intake /intercooler boots for residue or leaks and correct before trying to determine engine condition.
7) Look at oil pan for notorious rusting, make sure not beyond repaint type repair.
8) Know whether you're getting forged or PMRs. 99-mid 01 = forged, anything later is possible or for sure PMR. Not an issue until you exceed 400HP.
B. Transmission, driveline and 4x4 system.
1) Look for any obvious leaks.
2) With the system in 2wd, grasp and rotate both front drive axles and ensure they rotate freely. Go to the hubs, ESOF and manual should rotate from lock/auto to free with no problems.
3) Grab rear driveshaft and push up and down along it's length checking for worn u-joints or bearings.
4) Check front and rear differential levels. (An indicator of maintenance) Level should be at or w/in 1/2 inch of check plug.
2. Test drive. If you have never owned a 7.3 PSD, try to get a 7.3 owner to test drive it. I did this with a friend who bought his new. Invaluable evalation because you have no idea. A stock PSD may feel like a slug to the gasser uninitiated but it can pull a house off of it's foundation. So here we go.
A. Drive more than one PSD truck that you are considering. Whether Auto or Stick, it will give you an idea of the overall condition of the one you want to buy. Cost = 0. Learning curve = super high. Dealers have a ready supply.
B. Startup. Turn key and watch wait to start light. The colder it is the longer it will take but should take no longer than 15-20 seconds on even cold days. Start engine. Should crank readily and turn the tach while cranking (although mine does not). Should start within 2-5 seconds of cranking. The colder it is the longer it will take but if longer than 5 seconds there may be a problem. Even in colder weather. If it does not not start easily on the second try, suspect problems, possibly in the glow plugs or GP relays. If it does not crank readily, or seems to drag, suspect batteries first, starter next, then cables.
C. Driving. Check all operational items. Don't be rushed. This is a major investment and you want to get it right. Even small items like the cruise will set you back.
1) Auto tranny: will feel like it takes the throttle to get moving with a stocker. The higher the mileage, the worse this will be. The shift should be smooth but slippy with a stocker. Long to engage. Convertor lockup will be almost imperceptable, but there. Will lock up at about 45 to 60m depending on throttle in OD. Should drop out of OD with input to brake or reduction of speed.
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