Agreed with the above..... I believe you are having issues with the FICM also. I am battling the same problem right now. Mine started out as taking a longer cranking time to start, and then no start when the ambient temp is cold (with the block heater plugged in). Now, it will not start at all. When I turn the key on I do not get the "buzz" (I have the inductive heating load). If it try to start it, it tries to hit on 1 or 2 cylinders every 3 or 4 seconds.... I just got a device I can pull codes with, and I am also going to troubleshoot the voltage levels from the FICM. There is a way to measure the voltage through the access cover on the FICM, check out:
FICM Troubleshooting Procedure this shows how to do the test..... (Keep in mind the FICM is buried on the top/back of the drivers side valve cover, under the Degas bottle, you can loosen the bottle and get room to work without having to drain any coolant and remove the bottle)
One other question, have you had battery or alternator issues? One of the things that kills an FICM is low voltage, because one of the jobs of the FICM is to step up the 12VDC to 48VDC to run the solenoid valves on the injectors. Mine is because of an combination of age/miles (115K) and I have killed 4 alternators and a set of batteries (no the alt issue was not related to batteries, it was the other way around).... so I am going to check mine, and if it is the culprit, it will be pulled and shipped out to be repaired. They can be repaired for the ~$150 area, and be dropped back in. Or bought new from Ferd for ~$700 + cost of programming.......
