Turbo Question?

f_250pstroke02

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2006
Messages
104
Reaction score
0
Location
Baton Rouge/New Orleans, LA
I am looking at installing the Wicked Wheel and as I read in a previous thread Ryan Bean suggested getting the whole 1.0 housing(I'm guessing on the exhaust side) and compressor wheel all together. Seems like a great package deal. Might as weel do it all at once while your under/back there.

I am wondering about the wastegate "issue". :confused:

What are the pros/cons of a non-wastegated turbo vs. a wastegated turbo?

Is there any benefit to a wastegate controller (Diesel Site) or will the stock wastegate be sufficient? -or- no wastegate at all?

Maybe I am just an idiot and am not seeing something. Any help is greatly appreciated. :thanks
 

roosterdiesel

Earl needs B100
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
1,763
Reaction score
0
Location
Amarillo,TX
I have the 1.0 ex. housing from bean's. I like the fact of no WG. You just control boost with your right foor instead of relying on the WG. With the wheel and ATS housing I'm seeing max boost of around 27psi.

I went with the 1.0 because I didn't want to suffer lag probs down low with my 6spd. It's a bit more laggy than stock but once it's lit it pulls quite a bit harder up top.:thumbs


I don't like internal WGs...the Banks is the only one I'd use becuase it still uses boost to control BP by opening the WG slightly at WOT. The Turbo master uses nothing but drive pressure to blow open the WG and has no boost reference, bascially like disconnecting the red tube from the stock actuator and tightening the rod. The stock PCM controls the boost going to the WG with the solenoid that has the red and green tubes going to it. The Banks just has a stronger spring for higher boost capabilities.
 

White Buffalo

TDP Pit crew
Joined
Sep 17, 2006
Messages
118
Reaction score
0
Location
Fort Sill, Oklahoma
If you have the $ why not get Beans van turbo package with the WW and exhaust housing. Since your leaning towards disconnecting the wast gate anyway. It's a great setup. Just a thought
 

f_250pstroke02

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2006
Messages
104
Reaction score
0
Location
Baton Rouge/New Orleans, LA
Ultimately I want to get a GTP38R :thumbs but right now $1600 :( is a little much for me. I have a lot of smaller things I want to take care of first. Who knows, maybe I will be happy with just the WW and housing. Thaks for the input though.
 

White Buffalo

TDP Pit crew
Joined
Sep 17, 2006
Messages
118
Reaction score
0
Location
Fort Sill, Oklahoma
I hear ya. I don't have $1600 laying around either right now. The WW & housing is a great upgrade, you'll like the way she sounds. As far as the wastegate is concerned, here is the purpose of the waste gate in the turbo:


The wastegate allows the exhaust to bypass the turbine blades. The wastegate senses the boost pressure. When the pressure gets to a certain point the wastegate bypasses some of the exhaust around the turbine blades, allowing the blades to slow down so not to overspin. I believe the wastegate in our stock turbos starts to open around 22 lbs or somewhere close to that and has a max boost of 27.

Why did they not use a bigger turbo so you don't have to worry about it?

A larger turbocharger can provide lots of boost at high engine speeds, but may have bad turbo lag at lower rpms because of how long it takes to accelerate its heavier turbine and compressor.

The wastegate allows the use of a smaller turbocharger to reduce lag at lower rpm's while preventing it from spinning too quickly at high engine speeds. It's kinda give & take. A larger turbo wouldn't need a wastegate but then it would lag at low rpm's.

The stock turbo on the 7.3L can handle up to @ 27 lbs. Above that can lead to trouble. But after adding a chip/programmer you have added more fuel and now you need more air. By getting rid of the wastegate you are not letting the boost leak out at higher power levels. It's safe - plenty of folks do it, you just need to watch the boost guage so you don't kill your turbo to early. With the combination of the WW and larger exhaust housing you won't have to worry.


Now the ball bearing turbo is a slightly different animal. It uses ball bearings instead of fluid bearings to support the turbine shaft. They allow the turbine shaft to spin with less friction than the fluid bearings used in most turbochargers. (I think the Garret BB is capable of 39 lbs of boost.) They also allow a slightly smaller or lighter shaft to be used. This helps the turbocharger accelerate more quickly, reducing turbo lag. Better design but cost more $

Hope I didn't confuse the subject.

Rich

P.S. be careful with that K&N filter. I have used them on my Harley's & other cars and they worked great. But for diesels many oil analysis' has shown (high silicone levels) they can tend not to seal properly and let larger dust particle through which will lead to damaging the fins on the turbo wheel. If your not sure, get an oil analysis done by blackstone-labs.com. For $20 they will show you how your engine is wearing on the inside.
 
Last edited:

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
30,545
Messages
266,136
Members
14,673
Latest member
Doms350
Top