Question Turbo popping off-Loosing boost

thesheenster

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Here you go DaveBen:

6.0L Power Stroke is torque of the town - Engine Technology - diesel engine from Ford | Automotive Industries | Find Articles at BNET

A little selected info:

Heads and block are of cast iron. The crankshaft is forged steel and induction hardened. For increased stiffness, it mounts to the block via a bedplate with five main bearings. The forged camshaft drives 32 valves with hydraulic rollers. The cam mounts low in the block just above the crankshaft and is driven through a relatively short gearset. Gears are straight and not helical.

Connecting rods from Metaldyne are of forged powder metal with a teepee-type split end, providing more bearing surface. Forged powder metal con rods, while normal practice for gasoline engines, are novel in diesel applications.

Pistons from Karl Schmidt Unisia have a three-ring pack and are cast aluminum with a Ni-resist insert for the compression ring. The top ring has a keystone shape and is chrome plated. The oil control ring is a spring expander type. Pistons are jet cooled on the underside and piston skirts have a special coating to assure a smooth break-in period.

I'm shooting you straight, this is what I see on my display. I also spoke with my nieghbor and his 03 is set up to backdown at 1300 degrees.

Guess I'm not the only one -- Maximum safe EGT and Trans temp towing - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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snicklas

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I do not have an EGT yet... and I am 100% stock. I plan on getting guages when $$$ allows. I am curious as to what I will see. I do know that even in 100% stock trim... and I mean everything...... stock air intake, no programming of any kind, stock exhaust (cat and muffler) if is see anything over 1200 I will be pulling my foot off the go-pedal..... Just to be safe... call me paranoid, but I do not have several thousand $$$$ laying around to rebuild the engine if I burn somethin up..... they may be of some alloy that makes them more heat tollerant.... but I don't think I want to chance it.....

Is this a stock setting on a programmer, or stock PCM Program and just monitoring what is going on?
 

snicklas

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I have read both articles you linked to. I do agree that the block and heads are Cast Iron, but the pistons are still aluminum... an alloy, but still contain alot of alluminum none the less.

One thing that I did see constantly on the second link was the consensus that for sustained reliability and to be safe "all the time" do not exceede 1250 on the EGT's. Can you... yes... sould you... probally not.

Yes the pistons have coolers that squirt oil on the BOTTOM side of the piston.... the damage from high EGT's is on TOP of the piston in the combustion chamber, the cooler will help, but do not eliminate the problem.

So, going above the 1200-1250 for a short burst (2-5 seconds) will you be ok.... probally..... driving at 1350 to 1400 constantly and not causing damage.... probally not.

I am not trying to start an argument but.... what it really comes down it is your truck and you can drive/treat it however you want. If you feel comfortable running it at those temps... than drive it that way. I do not feel comfortable at those temps an I would run my truck at 1200 or below, as I think Dave would agree.... I also would like to get as many miles from my truck as I can before I have to do a rebuild.

Many time on here and next door at OB..... the people that say the 6.0 is junk are either people who have never has a 6.0 or have chiped/tuned/raced to make as much horsepower as they can an blow the engine up. THe 6.0 has gotten a horrible reputation and this is why....... If you run a machine outside its designed limits, do not be surprised or mad when it breaks........
 

DaveBen

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It is YOUR truck and as Scott says, above, "I do not have several thousand $$$$ laying around to rebuild the engine if I burn somethin up....." This is what I have been saying. If you want to go for 1400 degrees, by all means go for it. I just warned you and ALL others here...

Dave
 

thesheenster

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Scott and Dave:

No arguing here either. I get what you are saying and understand your concerns with temps. I purchased my truck new and installed the programmer after 2 weeks. My wife laughs because I mod everything. The programmer has a true stock setting yet still shows what info you select on the display. This is how I'm able to see the factory settings in the computer back down on the power when getting close to 1400. I have seen these 1350 deg temps since the installation of the programmer running on the stock setting with no mods at all. The truck now has 30K on it and approx 90% of that is towing something. If something does ever happen I will be sure to share my experience with everyone. In the meantime I will continue to put the hammer down while towing (in the stock mode) and see what the 6.0 can take. So far so good it will out pull my old 2000 7.3 all day long stock or not.
 

Zookie400

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scan it for codes. i would be interested in knowing where this goes.....it almost sounds like an egr valve is opening the way your boost drops to 0.

one more thing to check......under high boost you are sucking in a TON of air. if your pre turbo intake is not up to the task it will create a vacuum, suck down and CHOKE the engine, dropping boost to 0 and creating a mess of black smoke. its hard to diagnose, but its definitely a possibility and worth looking into.
 

ckamp52

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i still dont get how you are showing 1350 in stock just doesnt add up to me cuz i've never heard of themrunning that hot. i pull a good laod everyday and have the stacked chips and never see over 1100 or so . yes i have intake and exhaust but still i dunno something just doesnt sound right
 

fordoor

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It is YOUR truck and as Scott says, above, "I do not have several thousand $$$$ laying around to rebuild the engine if I burn somethin up....." This is what I have been saying. If you want to go for 1400 degrees, by all means go for it. I just warned you and ALL others here...

Dave
What some of us are asking is that you quit scarring people into thinking their pistons will melt at 1220* for over 3-5 seconds like you posted Dave. This is just not true. We are beating the heck out of this topic, and we all know that being careful with the E.G.T.'s is important for longevity. But most all of us are running around with melted pistons if what you say or read is true. Your chart of melting points does not accurately pertain to our pistons. The proof is that probably thousands of us have exceeded this temp., and some for extended times. Can we all quit being so righteous about this? I will if you will.
 

BIG JOE

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i still dont get how you are showing 1350 in stock just doesnt add up to me cuz i've never heard of themrunning that hot. i pull a good laod everyday and have the stacked chips and never see over 1100 or so . yes i have intake and exhaust but still i dunno something just doesnt sound right

Could it be something as simple as:

A Stock engine with marginal intake air capacity.. and a somewhat restricted exhaust system.. with a Chip/Programmer added to an unknown PCM flash ?

Not being a Smart Azz here but..:confused:
 

DaveBen

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What some of us are asking is that you quit scarring people into thinking their pistons will melt at 1220* for over 3-5 seconds like you posted Dave. This is just not true. We are beating the heck out of this topic, and we all know that being careful with the E.G.T.'s is important for longevity. But most all of us are running around with melted pistons if what you say or read is true. Your chart of melting points does not accurately pertain to our pistons. The proof is that probably thousands of us have exceeded this temp., and some for extended times. Can we all quit being so righteous about this? I will if you will.

You are the one getting hot under the collar about MY posts. OK, no fighting. I will stop, if you will. :)

Dave
 

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