Tranny gave out

[trackspeeder]

If you like working on it yourself, drop the pan at least B4 you take it out. The amount of metal in the pan will tell how bad off you are. If you have little, the low cost local may work. It's very little $ for the amount of labor a through rebuild entails however.
If there is more metal than magnet fuzz, you will want a through rebuild and cleaning. The full transgo kit needs a billet cover converter or you risk ballooning. It's possibly a converter only failure, but a front lube failure has the same exact symptoms.
Hopefully a link will appear in my signature. I will add either photos of a lube failure to it tomorrow as a separate album. It will show you some of the parts lube failure takes out. Hopefully before you count on $300. If you google E4OD or e40d (letter O or the zero) You will find my work. Usually it's in the top 40 results. The $300 re-builders use it all the time but it won't tell them specifics. It shows the best techniques for dis-assembly and reassembly for the working man who must do it himself. But with 50+ revisions in these transmissions different upgrades apply to different model years. I left them out for that reason including brand names and summarized the changes at the end instead. For it takes a trained eye to spot mods and changes done by others, that will cause trouble when mixed with other mods by the unknowing. I wish I could link it direct here, but house rules say no.
-
-

Hey Mr. X.

You must be refering to the E4OD article at TDG.

 

[95_stroker]

The full transgo kit needs a billet cover converter or you risk ballooning.
-

Can you explain this a little deeper?

 

[95_stroker]

If you install the pump part of the kit, the converter clutch will apply harder. The stock steel converter covers can flex from the extra force. Sometimes it deforms the cover in time or the apply plate. One of the symptoms is shudder or vibration when the converter locks. A worn clutch will warp from slip also and shudder. A converter that has balloned makes noise from parts rubbing eventually.

OK, but that does not mean that you have to pop for the expense of the billet converter. I had the Tugger II kit in my E4OD with an after market (not Ford) steel converter, there were also injectors and a wildman chip in front of the tranny for 50,000 miles. No TC or tranny issues the whole time. The TC I put in was under $600.00 compared to billet converters at nearly triple that price.

 

[95_stroker]

Casper Wy--you might know Gregrob or Locomotion. He smoked a stock converter.
-
-

#1 we are not talking stock converters here and....


#2 I dont know either of those fellows nor do I need to, I managed my horsepower in my 95 PSD just fine with a non-billet TC. Yeah, I pulled heavy too and I saw more than one 05+ Dodge/Ford/Chevy in my mirrors while towing also.

Bottom line is you do not need the schiznitz TC to keep these things together. I rarely treated the 95 kindly with my right foot. It was built well, it was built right and I think it will roll for another 50K with no problems with the proper maintenance and operational care.... ie; keep the fluids changed and dont operate it over 240°F.

 

[95_stroker]

The UCC link, I didn't see in your sig earlier. Lenny doesn't mention billet in his diesel converters--True. It might well be there anyway. It's mass produced in OEM diameter, and I think he would know that. He's had some serious horsepower testing done on the UCC in the mid west.
-
-

And the results are??????????????

 

[95_stroker]

As an American your entitled to express your opinions. You need to speak with Lenny if you want to know about his product. Your entitled to set your own bottom line and whom you wish to know as well. Your quite welcome for the transgo information you requested.

Ford wouldn't have spent the $ on the many redesigns to the E4od/4R100's unless they needed to. That includes the converter and it's PCM control strategy in the 4R100. If you should put a transgo kit in one of them, you may notice there is 1 less change made to the pump. It affects TC clutch lockup apply force. I disagree with your opinions on 2 things based on experience. That's my right as an American.
_
-
-

So if I understand this right if a person chooses to do the Transgo Tugger HDII kit with the pump mod in YOUR opinion, no if's and's or but's about it you MUST put in a Billet TC?

Is that what I am understanding here?

Why dont you tell me about Lenny's product? Lenny doesnt visit this site nor are he and I buddies so let me know your OPINION of Lennys products.

I'm not looking for a pissing match here, I am seeking to understand whats going on and how I was so fortunate to beat my tranny like a rented mule for 50K miles and have no problems (well, I didnt beat it by any means but I didnt drive like gramma on Sunday either).

 

[hheynow]

OK I'll bite. I have had the TransGo standard shift kit and pump mod for over two years in my tranny. No billet cover. No problems. My tranny rebuilder has been rebuilding trannys for 15 years. He truly is a gear head. I mentioned to him about the need for a new billet cover and he laughed.

 

[addicted]

Wow!! I have not seen a heated debate like this in awhile Im glad I could start it. Tranny will be comming out tomorrow. Was suppossed to be tonight but my buddy's 99 ran out of fuel and I had to give him a hand an do some coaching.

 

[95_stroker]

So if I understand this right if a person chooses to do the Transgo Tugger HDII kit with the pump mod in YOUR opinion, no if's and's or but's about it you MUST put in a Billet TC?

Is that what I am understanding here?

Why dont you tell me about Lenny's product? Lenny doesnt visit this site nor are he and I buddies so let me know your OPINION of Lennys products.

I'm not looking for a pissing match here, I am seeking to understand whats going on and how I was so fortunate to beat my tranny like a rented mule for 50K miles and have no problems (well, I didnt beat it by any means but I didnt drive like gramma on Sunday either).

-popcorn

 

[addicted]

Hahaha yet another Dedede hopefully.

When I crawled under my truck the day it was leaking oil was pouring out everywhere from all places. After all this research and getting ready to drop the tranny this morning I finally located the problem. Yes and it is all my fault not the factory.

When I installed my exhaust there were no hangers where the cat was. Well there is but was not designed right on the exhaust I bought. So the transmission return line was extremely close to the exhaust. Over time the exhaust moved a bit and on bumps I'm sure it was rubbing against the line whee it takes a 90 and into the tranny. Over time it created a small crack or puncture in the line where the line is flaired and comes together with the fitting due to the pressure.

I'm going to call around but I think I may just buy a section of line, a flairing tool and a brake line bender and make my own. I'm sure that will be the same price as the dealer for a pre made one that won't be just right anyway. That way I can keep it away from the exhaust. Also I'm going to buy some ducting straps and wrap it around the exaust and frame and pull it over 1/4 inch to keep it away. That with another 1/4 inch from my custom bend and I should have a 1/2" clearance.

Well let me see what I can dig up. I would like to put a new pan on during this change but I think I will put it on during the next change as I really want my truck back.

At least I know now what I want to put in my transmission when I upgrade it and it really goes. I wonder if my pan has a reusable gasket? as I'm going to flush. Ohh I should just wait and buy a new pan so when I change out the oil in the future I don't have to screw around with droping the pan every time.