jestersv
7.3 addict
use a good quality gauge and stop at 65 psi
Tires causing steering wander?
- Thread starter 53mustangbob
- Start date
superdub01
SDD USMC/Wyotech
it doesnt necessarily always matter the mileage of the truck. theres some chance you have a faulty component, even if its new. i would jack the front end up and isolate every bearing/ joint/ pivot/ clamp in the whole steering system to troubleshoot a possible problem. better safe than sorry.
elkyss81
SDD Junior Member
Hmm. I have a similar issue. I have an '00 F250 ext cab shortbed, with 285/75r17 Federal Couragia M/T's. Load Range D max of 65psi also. When I got the truck the balljoint were shot, so I changed them this weekend, and had an alignment done, and checked all my other front end components. With the old worn out balljoints, I had no wander. Now that I have aligned it, put new balljoints, and aired the tires from 50 to 65, it wanders a bit and it seems like when I get into a corner the truck feels like it "rolls" a bit too much. I can push on the truck and watch the tires flex.....I'm thinking, it's just crappy tires. Definately going with load range E's when these wear out. It also seems like I have 0 steering returnability, when I go through a corner I can turn the wheel to make it, and just let go and when the corner straightens out the truck is still going the way I originally turned with my hands off the wheel. Kinda aggravating..
elkyss81
SDD Junior Member
Not sure how much newer it goes, but a buddy told me about a TSB for the ball joints causing a wander/ hard to return steering. First step is to set the truck on turn plates(like an alignment rack), remove tie rod ends from knuckle, install a bolt/nut in hole, grab a torque wrench & set to 100 ft-lbs, and try to turn the knuckle outboard, if the torque wrench DOES NOT click your balljoints are ok. If it DOES click before the wheel starts turning, they say to replace lower balljoints w/greasable joint and normal upper. Afterwards joint replacement, torque lower nut to 35 ft lbs, then torque upper to 70 ft lbs and move to next available slot to get cotter pin in, then re-torque lower to 150-160 ft lbs. Guess I'll be trying to do this sometime this weekend and grease the new joints. I'll report back later...
that brings up a good point...
people think I'm smoking bongs when I tell them that ball joints can also be too tight, and causes a wander..
they have torque specs for a reason..
dpantazis
#12
hey john, pass that thing this way! 
inflation- look for instructions for 'chalk test'. it will show you the contact patch for your inflation and your current weight.
inflation- look for instructions for 'chalk test'. it will show you the contact patch for your inflation and your current weight.
Steering Wander seems to come up Alot here.
I'm guna step up and say... 80% of it is: Tire Build, Quality and Most Important.. Tire Pressure. The other 20% could be worn parts, from age or miles.
The "Chalk Test" dp talks about is the way to go
Old News to some but.....
On tires with life still left in them:
Put a thin layer of chalk down, in a patch wider than the tires (Snap line chalk works well).
1. Drive slowly thru the chalk.
2. Note the chalk patch on the tire.
3. Wipe the chalk off.
Inflate/Deflate the tires and repeat the 3 steps until you see approx 1/2" of Clean tire.... on the OUTSIDE edges.
Note the pressure it took to get there.
Test Drive it for a few days, in different driving conditions.
If the Wander went away (?).. the noted pressure is what you need to maintain. If it didn't, is somewhat less or the psi is over the tire makers Max psi ? You may need a better built/quality/ply tire..... or MAYBE.. some front-end parts.
Joe
FWIW ? I've used this method for many, many years. IMO it's Specific PSI for the (your) specific truck and it's use. I run 70 in the fronts, 60 in the rears (DRW). I've also done it on my 5r & boat trailer too. When I go on an extended road trip... I add 2 psi to the PSD.... No Wander, No Sway.
Joe
I'm guna step up and say... 80% of it is: Tire Build, Quality and Most Important.. Tire Pressure. The other 20% could be worn parts, from age or miles.
The "Chalk Test" dp talks about is the way to go
Old News to some but.....
On tires with life still left in them:
Put a thin layer of chalk down, in a patch wider than the tires (Snap line chalk works well).
1. Drive slowly thru the chalk.
2. Note the chalk patch on the tire.
3. Wipe the chalk off.
Inflate/Deflate the tires and repeat the 3 steps until you see approx 1/2" of Clean tire.... on the OUTSIDE edges.
Note the pressure it took to get there.
Test Drive it for a few days, in different driving conditions.
If the Wander went away (?).. the noted pressure is what you need to maintain. If it didn't, is somewhat less or the psi is over the tire makers Max psi ? You may need a better built/quality/ply tire..... or MAYBE.. some front-end parts.
Joe
FWIW ? I've used this method for many, many years. IMO it's Specific PSI for the (your) specific truck and it's use. I run 70 in the fronts, 60 in the rears (DRW). I've also done it on my 5r & boat trailer too. When I go on an extended road trip... I add 2 psi to the PSD.... No Wander, No Sway.
Joe
Last edited:
wilson111
SDD Junior Member
i put 285/70r17 load range d's on my 06 f250 and it wondered until i worn them down.. which didn't take too long at all, i learned a lesson the expensive way. put e's on and you will see a big diff.
elkyss81
SDD Junior Member
Ok got around to fixing the truck today. Decided to lube everything on the front end(hadn't had a chance to do the balljoints yet, so I figured now would be a good time to get everything else as well.) Checked everything again for looseness etc, all tight. Lubed everything up good. Tried to turn the wheels by hand and it just seemed like they were too tight. Went on a test drive anyways after lubing....great, now I'll have to tear all this crap apart and torque ball joints. Then I got to thinking, I noticed my steering stabilizer was leaking.....what if I try taking that off? Did so, test drove and no more steering issues. Didn't figure my steering stabilizer would cause a wander, strange as it seems it did though.
DaveBen
SDD Senior Member
It is just a shock absorber with a 50/50 split. They can cause problems if they are not in good order. It is OK to run without it.
Dave
Dave
