This is ineffective soundproofing !

Macke7

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Sound deadeners work by increasing the mass of an already sound proof barrier. If the barrier isn't already sound proof (basically air tight) then it doesn't help to add mass to it.

For example, putting deadener on a door like this doesn't help one bit.
Inside door application. photo - Bart Denys photos at pbase.com

If you want to kill the sound in a door, use sound absorbing foam or line door skin itself.

Hope this helps someone.
 

bushpilot

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i would agree, installed like that is WORTHLESS...the HOLES
in the door should be covered as well.

HOW EVER it is effective in reducing the rattles and once
SEALED it is effective at blocking sound.

"FOAM" or matting is not always a viable option where water
is frequently present !

I would be interested in hearing what you are using & how
youve applied it and in what locations.

an installation like the photo below *IS* very effective in
reducing sound/road noise from infiltrating the cabin space.

once the Moisture barrier is applied youll notice that the installation
ALSO included sound absorbing pads...which (btw come from the factory
TOO)

86313914.ZiBzrtXM.a10.jpg

87120014.f8q3cjio.door.jpg

86080503.jJYFulJx.d9.jpg
 
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bushpilot

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i NEVER suggested filling any door w/
FOAM...in fact i said foam couldnt be used.
 

Dogman

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I'm just trying to figure out how to roll down my window now that i filled the door with foam like you said to do.

Ouch!!! Your going to have to make your self a hot wire knife to cut the foam. Hot wire knife is a thin wire that is in a U shape and you can wire it to a battery. The wire will get red hot and then it will cut right throw the foam.
 

bushpilot

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Ouch!!! Your going to have to make your self a hot wire knife to cut the foam. Hot wire knife is a thin wire that is in a U shape and you can wire it to a battery. The wire will get red hot and then it will cut right throw the foam.

just use the wifes electric turkey carving knife and return it when
youre done :lmao
 

BamaSixGun

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i would agree, installed like that is WORTHLESS...the HOLES
in the door should be covered as well.

HOW EVER it is effective in reducing the rattles and once
SEALED it is effective at blocking sound.

"FOAM" or matting is not always a viable option where water
is frequently present !

I would be interested in hearing what you are using & how
youve applied it and in what locations.

an installation like the photo below *IS* very effective in
reducing sound/road noise from infiltrating the cabin space.

once the Moisture barrier is applied youll notice that the installation
ALSO included sound absorbing pads...which (btw come from the factory
TOO)

86313914.ZiBzrtXM.a10.jpg

87120014.f8q3cjio.door.jpg

86080503.jJYFulJx.d9.jpg

Uh, aren't those holes in the door where the door panel connect?
 

bushpilot

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Uh, aren't those holes in the door where the door panel connect?

those SMALL holes are where the panel HANGS when its installed...
the LARGE HOLES (in the top photo/link, from the FIRST POST)
need to be covered to BLOCK the sound...the LARGE HOLES in the
door are for access to the window regulator.
 

jpringle83

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I hate to tell you guys this but the first picture has nothing to do with soundproofing but helping with soundwave redirection for the speaker in the door and you would be blown away how that little bit of sound deadener will help that speaker sound much louder and smoother. I was an installer for a long time and have seen many different methods and some of them are just plain wasteful and pointless in an automotive application.
 

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