Can anyone tell me where the best place to access a switched ( key "ON'' only) place to hook into power for an on-board 12v compressor on a 2008 F250 diesel without the upfitter switch option.I would like to install compressor for air springs. Thanks
Question Switched power if no upfitter switches
- Thread starter pizzaguy
- Start date
I found a bunch of wires under the drivers side dash (near the emergency brake pedal) that were just for this purpose. I believe the wire was purple, but they are clearly labled so it will be easy to find the correct one. THen just use one of the wires near there that go through the firewall and end up in the engine compartment just in front of the driver. You can hook this up to the air spring compressor controller and of course connect the compressor power to the battery like the instructions say. I did this a couple of months ago and it wasn't too hard. I think the wire locations may actually be in the owners' manual.
Best,
Robert
Best,
Robert
The only info listed on compressor is Max Draw 12 Amps.
The reply by rcork to hook up power to the battery won't work because I do not want power running to compressor when key is not on, but I do appreciate his help on the other wires. The Air Lift control has a low pressure sensor to keep a minimum of 5 psi in bags and will automatically kick in. If there would be an air leak when truck is not driven I would end up with a dead battery.Sometimes this truck is not driven for a week or two at a time,mainly just used for pulling camper. Thanks for your help!
The reply by rcork to hook up power to the battery won't work because I do not want power running to compressor when key is not on, but I do appreciate his help on the other wires. The Air Lift control has a low pressure sensor to keep a minimum of 5 psi in bags and will automatically kick in. If there would be an air leak when truck is not driven I would end up with a dead battery.Sometimes this truck is not driven for a week or two at a time,mainly just used for pulling camper. Thanks for your help!
What I did ?
Ran a 10 gauge wire from the Key On side of the starter solenoid, up and under the windshield cowling, under the hood (outa sight), over to the driver-side firewall, to the right of the Brake Booster. Installed a terminal block... I run ALL add-on's from there. The terminal block is only "Hot" when the key is on.
Joe
Ran a 10 gauge wire from the Key On side of the starter solenoid, up and under the windshield cowling, under the hood (outa sight), over to the driver-side firewall, to the right of the Brake Booster. Installed a terminal block... I run ALL add-on's from there. The terminal block is only "Hot" when the key is on.
Joe
architect-builder
Full Access Member
On my 03, under the stereo, under the dash, there was the customer access wires taped together. With those wires was one white wire with black tape over the end. That wire was a key-on hot. Yours being an 08, I have no idea if it would be the same or similiar, but you might check.
Barrett
Barrett
Pizza guy,
I used the "Smart Air" controller for my truck and even though I have the air compressor hooked up directly to the battery (fused of course), there is no way the compressor will turn on unless my key is on. The "Smart Air" controller is essentially the relay and brains that tell the comperssor to turn on. If the key is not on then the controller has no power and the compressor will not come on. So, depending on the controller you are using, if you connect the compressor to the battery and then power the controller from the ignition on wire you should be fine. I'm not sure how the controller would power on the compressor if the controller had no power even if the air system had a leak and fell to less than 5 psi.
Hope that helps,
Robert
I used the "Smart Air" controller for my truck and even though I have the air compressor hooked up directly to the battery (fused of course), there is no way the compressor will turn on unless my key is on. The "Smart Air" controller is essentially the relay and brains that tell the comperssor to turn on. If the key is not on then the controller has no power and the compressor will not come on. So, depending on the controller you are using, if you connect the compressor to the battery and then power the controller from the ignition on wire you should be fine. I'm not sure how the controller would power on the compressor if the controller had no power even if the air system had a leak and fell to less than 5 psi.
Hope that helps,
Robert
I am using the Air Lift Load Controller ll. It only has 1 wire that hooks to power and goes to manual switch and low pressure sensor, and then to compressor. I currently have it on my 2007 F150 and if pressure is low it will kick in compressor when key is first turned on.If it is not connected to an ignition wire and hooked directly to battery, compressor would run anytime pressure gets below 5 psi.I usually keep minimal pressure in air bags when not hauling and in our Iowa winters this can drop with temp change easily when truck is not driven.Keep the comments coming. Thanks for the help.
Okay, that changes things then. If I understand this correctly,I think you would want to either go with a relay between the single power wire and the battery. This relay could then be switched with the ignition hot wire from under the dash or just do it like Big Joe commented above. Or to further complicate matters you could add the upfitter switches and use circuit 1 or 2 they are both rated for that kind of load. But then again that is $200 bucks more to the project.
Robert
Robert
