Summary - Preventative Maint for Diesels !

[jwplunkett]

Please find a summary of Forum member inputs to my earlier Forum
-Subject: Best Strategies – Preventative Maint for Diesels ?

First and foremost many thanks to all forum members who provided input your suggestions / comments are most appreciated and valued --- Without your support the below listing would not have been possible

Hopefully many will benefit from this Summary / Subject
-Please feel free to ADD and or comment on list

Many thanks in advance --- John from Colfax NC

-Follow Owners manual recommendations
-Change Engine oil every 5K miles regardless of tow or no tow
-Change Engine Filter
-Change / Maintain Fuel Filters as required
-Conduct oil analysis on a regular basis
Engine & Transmission Fluids
Document same
Compare / analysis results long term
Blackstone.com
-Diesel Fuel Additive a MUST
-Add required / proper additive depending on the season of year
-Run a good quality Diesel Fuel
-Use Block Heater as required – Below Freezing
-Run Injector Lube additive as required
-Good warm up and then cool down period a good measure to take into account
-Check Spare Tire Pressure at least every 3 months or so
-Check all 4 tire pressure on regular basis
-Check battery at each Oil Change
-Check Transfer case Fluid level at each oil change
-Check Anti-Freeze level at each Oil Change
-Check Power Steering Fluid
-Check Air filter and clean at each Oil Change
-Check Serpentine Belt at each oil change & replace as required
-Check Radiator Hoses each oil change & replace as required
-Check and maintain all Brake calipers / slide pins / clean & Lubricate as required
-Check Brake disc rotors / maintain or replace as required
-Check / monitor brake lines after each OFF road trip for any damage prior to getting back onto highway
-Monitor entire vehicle for any rodent damage to wiring etc
-Wash off entire under carriage after driving on salted / sanded or chemically treated Roads as soon as possible
-Wash vehicle on a regular basis
-Wax once a year
-Try to avoid Long idle times
-If unable to avoid long idle interval than after same get vehicle out on highway and run for 10 miles or so to clean out system prior to shutdown
-Inspect complete under side of Vehicle at each Oil Change – Look for leaks / damage etc
-Consider upgrading Transfer Case fluid to Synthetic
-Consider upgrading Power Steering fluid to Synthetic
-Consider installing an External Coolant Filtration system
-Consider replacing existing Anti-Freeze Coolant with Evans NPG+
-Consider installing an External Engine oil By-Pass filtration system
-Consider installing an External Transmission filtration system
-Consider Turbo saver plug & play device that will auto cool turbo prior to auto Engine shut down
-Consider upgrading Rear Differential cover to Mag-Hytec
-Install Synthetic Gear Oil ( Per Owners manual ) in Rear Differential after upgrade to Mag-Hytec cover
-Consider upgrading Front Differential from Petroleum based Gear oil to Synthetic Gear Oil
-Consider replacing stock transmission pan with Mag-Hytec
-Consider upgrading from Factory Air Filtration to after market
-Consider an air restriction gauge on the airbox if not already equipped
-Consider Free Flow after market exhaust
-Consider purchase anti-corrosion Pads for Battery
-Consider adding a Transmission temperature gauge
-Consider adding a Pyrometer to monitor Exhaust Temperature
-Consider adding a Boost Gauge
-Consider Fluidampr
-Consider Electric Fans to reduce drag on engine / Improve Fuel economy
-Consider FumotoValve for Engine oil drain
-Consider grade of oil running for seasons of year and adjust as required ( Summer versus Winter )
-Proceed with caution / rethink major Performance Chip upgrades

 

[Kleetus]

I'll go along with 90% of what you have up there, but I do question your consideration of an after market air cleaner, then reconsidering the use of performance chips or programs. It would seem to me that if you're at stock levels, the factory air system is perfect. I'd even go as far to say that even at mild power additions, it's still a tough system to outperform cleanliness wise. Yeah, you might get more air, but you're probably going to get more dirt as well.

Also, electric fans? You're going to take the load from the fan and put it on the alternator, so I doubt you're going to gain much, you may even get the cooling system and the computer to fight with each other...

I don't know that it's really necessary to plug the truck in once it dips below 32f... that's a bit much.-32F, yeah that's a little chilly...

Fuel Additive a must? I've ran it in mine, and really didn't see any difference in performance or mileage, but my wallet did get lighter.

But as a whole, what you have up there is good stuff and often overlooked common sense maintenance items. A good reminder.

 

[Calvin04]

Wow, that's a lot of stuff to consider every 5k. I'm starting to think my truck is a bit of a pi$$y 'lil biat!

 

[WD40]

Wow, that's a lot of stuff to consider every 5k. I'm starting to think my truck is a bit of a pi$$y 'lil biat!

No kidding, I just paid $55.00 last night for the two fuel filters that this little darling wants ever 15,000 miles. But what the heck, it sure pulles the RV with ease.

 

[F350DRW1]

Can't say I've checked for Rodent damage. I would like to add something, though. Besides checking the spare for air, make sure you can get the tire down. I helped a guy recently with an inside flat on a GMC dually [hooked to a horse trailer, naturally] and its the same set-up we have on Fords. It was worse getting the tire down than changing it. So when I got home I started wrestling with mine. It was a real challenge getting it down in the driveway, much less on the side of the road hooked to a trailer. Lots of dirt, salt, rust, etc. The key didn't fit well and everything need to be cleaned up. I'm not sure if this has been discussed here so sorry for the long post.

 

[bern rattler]

F350DRW1 that is a GREAT point! One more thing that happend to me. I went to let my spare down in the garage but did NOT have the "KEY" to go on the end of my crank rod (bought my truck used)! Since Ford did not have the right key in their kit I pulled the wench off and removed the other end of the key. Now all I need is the crank rod to lower my tire. This would have stunk on the side of the road with my 5ER behind me!

 

[BamaSixGun]

Can't say I've checked for Rodent damage. I would like to add something, though. Besides checking the spare for air, make sure you can get the tire down. I helped a guy recently with an inside flat on a GMC dually [hooked to a horse trailer, naturally] and its the same set-up we have on Fords. It was worse getting the tire down than changing it. So when I got home I started wrestling with mine. It was a real challenge getting it down in the driveway, much less on the side of the road hooked to a trailer. Lots of dirt, salt, rust, etc. The key didn't fit well and everything need to be cleaned up. I'm not sure if this has been discussed here so sorry for the long post.

Once you get the spare tire down, just replace it with some train horns, and then you wont have to worry about it next time.





































OH yeah, Put the spare tire in the bed when your're done.

 

[HiVoltage]

Yeah,what Bama said! K5LA's fit with an inch to spare on each side.

 

[F350DRW1]

Oh, Its on my list of mod's. I'm thinking about mounting an actual Fog Horn from a barge in the bed.

 

[RoyBoy]

Oh, Its on my list of mod's. I'm thinking about mounting an actual Fog Horn from a barge in the bed.

that would be a blast