Question Stancor problems

[airdrew99]

I'm about to go check my Stancor GPR for voltage drop. My truck is slow to start again. I replaced both batteries within the last 6 months (they are both new Interstate batteries 1000CA). I had them load tested independently about 1-2 months ago and they tested good. Alternator tested fine. The engine seems to turn over fast enough, but it is taking a lot longer to fire off. Last winter (here in Mississippi) my truck didn't require any glow plug warm up to start. Now, with it 50* outside, I let my glow plugs light for about 10 seconds and it turns over for 4-5 seconds before starting (it used to take 1-2 seconds). I'm getting a little worried with winter approaching. I checked the resistance in my glow plugs again and they are all at 1.0 ohms. I did check my injectors back in April and one was out of limits (it was over 10 ohms and the rest were about 3.5 ohms). How do I test the HPOP to see if it is going bad? Anyone had a Stancor GPR go bad? What else should I look at? What kind of resistance should I have in my battery cables? Thanks for all the advice.

Drew

 

[airdrew99]

I'm also leaning toward HPOP o-rings. Where can I purchase those? How long does it take to change them out?

 

[DaveBen]

Battery cables should have next to ZERO resistance. Sorry I don't know about the 7.3 HPOP or the o-rings.

Dave

 

[iracemine]

did you individually test the glow plugs? one or two might have let go.

 

[dpantazis]

try guzzle's page, i think that he has links to or runs the diesel o-ring shopping site.

 

[airdrew99]

I did check each glow plug individually. They checked about 1.0 ohm each.

 

[airdrew99]

anzelliiu,
I was thinking the same thing. I couldn't have said it better myself.

 

[JLDickmon]

here... pick this up on page 6, post 58
http://www.superdutydiesel.com/forums/911-diesel-down/23955-missing-no-power-6.html

 

[airdrew99]

I checked voltage drop on both batteries yesterday.
Key off: 12.5V battery, 12.5V hot side of GPR
Key run position: 11.7V at battery, 11.2-11.3V hot side of GPR, 11.2V switch side of GPR (other heavy post)
Engine running: 14.1V at batteries, 14.1V hot side of GPR.
I cleaned both negative cables where they attach at the block. All battery posts are clean.
I charged both batteries last night. The engine turns over very fast. This morning at 58*F my truck took about 5 seconds of cranking to start (after letting the glow plugs light for 8-10 seconds). After 20 minutes of driving, I shut the truck off then restarted about 10 seconds later. It cranked up immediately. Then I shut it off and let is set for about 20 minutes. I then tried to crank it and it took 4-5 seconds to start. I still read mid-range on water temp gauge. It seems like my fuel pressure is dropping off. I did check out the link from JLDickmon. Is there a way to put a fuel pressure gauge inline (somewhere) to get a reading while starting/running? Will a standard OBD-II work on my truck? I can't afford the software (Autoinginuity?). Any ideas? I'm affraid of having starting problems when the temps get colder. Thanks everyone.

Drew

 

[airdrew99]

Well, my fuel pump on the frame rail is not working. I checked the voltage at the fuel pump plug (about 12" prior to the fuel pump and it is getting 12V with key on and 14V with engine running). Is it common to have fuel pumps quit? Where is the best/cheapest place to get a replacement pump?

Drew