progressively worse

BJS

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2005
Messages
1,530
Reaction score
0
Location
Jacksonville, FL
usually low fuel pressure is a result of a failing fuel pump. They aren't hard to replace you just need a 1 & 1/8" (I think) boxed end 12pt wrench, time and patients.

Quite frequently pressure will be acceptable at idle but fall off when you're demanding a large volume of fuel.


And yes there is a schrader valve on the side of the pressure regulator to check the fuel pressure.
 

MUDWHISTLE

Diesel Lover
Joined
Jan 18, 2006
Messages
438
Reaction score
0
Location
oregon
to check your fuel pressure you need a 100 psi gauge and a chuck to air up a tire that can be clamped on and will stay on the schrader vlave and a piece of hose that can be ran out from your engine to the cab so you can watch it while your cranking it or driving (worked for me) the schrader valve is on the rh side of the fuel filter housing if you standing in front of the engine. Looks like a valve for filling a tire. If the pressure is just low you can shim your FPR.


Shim the fuel regulator

Shimming the fitting with a 3/16 spacer behind the spring in the fuel regulator. This is located on the right hand side of the fuel filter. You will see a 3/4 brass nut there. The spring is inside there. Shimming will raise the fuel pressure and often give you a worthwhile increase in power and no one that I can recall has reported higher fuel consumption.
 
Last edited:

Patrick Feeley

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2005
Messages
353
Reaction score
0
Location
Tehachapi, CA
The Banjo bolt size will be 1-1/4" inch. Some of the early pedestals won't allow a 12-point box wrench in there (like mine :rolleyes: ). The "webbing" is slightly different. I have to use a socket with 1" extension (or until I eventually get the modified pedestal on). The 1-1/8" wrench size is normally for the IPR body. Cheers!
 

thewater47

SDD Junior Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2006
Messages
23
Reaction score
0
Location
upsate NY
Hey Clem,

Thanks for askin. My two under VC harness's came in. I thought I would pull it in the garage and unslip each connector, and use an ohmmeter between the pins, ( i assume top and bottom ) and if I get a big variance on any set i would start there, if that method would work. Someone mentioned earlier about dropping the tanks. They are both full and I would like to avoid that if I could. I have a call in to an old fishing buddy of mine that has a laptop with software capable of gettin to the bottom of this. Now I got to get him over here......
 

clem

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2005
Messages
152
Reaction score
0
Location
N.E.Ohio
Check your fuel pressure like mud said so you can rule out the fuel pump.If you got a check engine light there should be code if you can get it scanned at maybe auto zone.
 

BJS

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2005
Messages
1,530
Reaction score
0
Location
Jacksonville, FL
Thanks for correcting my size patrick I knew it was one or the other and since I did both at the same time I get the two confused. I figured since I had easy access to the IPR it would be a good time to replace those o-rings as well.
 

whatabudro

Launched
Joined
Jun 12, 2005
Messages
0
Reaction score
0
clem said:
Check your fuel pressure like mud said so you can rule out the fuel pump.If you got a check engine light there should be code if you can get it scanned at maybe auto zone.


Autozone scanners don't normally pull codes on powerstrokes. They normally say no codes even with CEL on.
 

DaveBen

SDD Senior Member
Joined
May 31, 2005
Messages
9,627
Reaction score
81
Location
Ukiah, California
Autozone scanners may not be able to read CAN codes. Ford started to use CAN for the communications link and many of the scanners don't read it. Auto Enginuity (sp?) and Auto Xray both do.

Dave
 

thewater47

SDD Junior Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2006
Messages
23
Reaction score
0
Location
upsate NY
increased pressure

Pulled it in the garage this morning and it was doing it's code and 1/2 power thing as usual. I realized i never pulled the VC harness's on the driver side to check. The back one that is is under the turbo tube had some caked on greasy looking crap on it which i sprayed with wd40 cleaned up and stuck back in, other looked ok. I then went on to put a shim on the IPR as you guys talked about. Clicked the key and fired up no code. Went up and down my road here, back in the driveway shut it off and started it about five times, no codes or 1/2 power. Seems ok. I was trying to get a pressure reading, but i will have to get to the hardware store for some fittings. Should I be looking to replace the pump soon? I guess next is to get it out on the road and 70mph which i am working up the nerve to do. Its about 2 degrees here with the chill figured in, not a nice day for a walk! UPDATE...About 3 hours later went out to start it....cold it's back engine light and 1/2 power. my buddy is supposed to show up with the scanner tomorrow.
 
Last edited:

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
30,540
Messages
266,126
Members
14,667
Latest member
TacoCat
Top