Poor running when Cold

[KansasDiesel]

This problem has been occurring every winter for the past 3 years, that I remember. When cold and not plugged in, She will start and run but if I do not let her warm up and just start driving she will die and then takes several times to get started again. I also have a miss at idle that is intermittent.

I thought it could be the EBPV that was causing it, but that was gutted last summer.

Yesterday was the kicker, while letting it warm up she died and it took forever to get her running, once I got it on the road, I noteced the miss at idle worse and not only at idle.

When it warms up here I plan on doing a compression check and trying to figure this problem out, but until I get it fixed I can't trust not getting stranded.

Any ideas?? where should I begin??

NOTE: This problem was occuring before the WVO conversion so I am taking that out of the equation. Actually it runs at idle a little smoother on WVO but occasionally still has the miss.

 

[95_stroker]

Any ideas?? where should I begin??

See my Batteries thread. My truck has been displaying the same symptoms yours is for the last 6 months at a minimum, prolly longer if I really go back and think about it.

 

[KansasDiesel]

See my Batteries thread. My truck has been displaying the same symptoms yours is for the last 6 months at a minimum, prolly longer if I really go back and think about it.

I read that this morning and was giving it thought as well. My batteries are almost 3 years old. Do you know what your starting voltage was before you replaced the batteries and what it is now with fresh batteries?

It seams like my cranking voltage is 10.3 to 10.4 on the average which is min voltage for start, but it goes to 11.5 to 12.2 after start, then to 14.4 after the glowplugs turn off.

What batteries did you install, or did I miss that in your post? I do have cheep Costco batteries in there and it might be a starting place.

 

[95_stroker]

I went with Motorcraft batteries this time. I dont know what my voltage was while cranking though. Rough idle can also be IPR or ICP.

 

[action4478]

This problem has been occurring every winter for the past 3 years, that I remember. When cold and not plugged in, She will start and run but if I do not let her warm up and just start driving she will die and then takes several times to get started again. I also have a miss at idle that is intermittent.

I thought it could be the EBPV that was causing it, but that was gutted last summer.

Yesterday was the kicker, while letting it warm up she died and it took forever to get her running, once I got it on the road, I noteced the miss at idle worse and not only at idle.

When it warms up here I plan on doing a compression check and trying to figure this problem out, but until I get it fixed I can't trust not getting stranded.

Any ideas?? where should I begin??

NOTE: This problem was occuring before the WVO conversion so I am taking that out of the equation. Actually it runs at idle a little smoother on WVO but occasionally still has the miss.

Unplug the ICP & see if it smooths out.

This is from DM'S page...hope it helps

If the concern is a jerky, irratic idle when hot, unplug the ICP sensor (will set a code, causes the PCM to default to a pre-selected IPR duty cycle) to see if it the idle stabilizes. If it does, check the ICP voltage with a scan tool or breakout box at pins 87 to 91 with the sensor plugged in and the key on/engine off. It should be .20-.25 volts. If the base ICP voltage is within specs, replace the IPR; If not, replace the ICP and retest.

 

[johndeerebones]

If the concern is a jerky, irratic idle when hot, unplug the ICP sensor (will set a code, causes the PCM to default to a pre-selected IPR duty cycle) to see if it the idle stabilizes. If it does, check the ICP voltage with a scan tool or breakout box at pins 87 to 91 with the sensor plugged in and the key on/engine off. It should be .20-.25 volts. If the base ICP voltage is within specs, replace the IPR; If not, replace the ICP and retest.

If the concern is a jerky, irratic idle when hot, unplug the ICP sensor (will set a code, causes the PCM to default to a pre-selected IPR duty cycle) to see if it the idle stabilizes. If it does, check the ICP voltage with a scan tool or breakout box at pins 87 to 91 with the sensor plugged in and the key on/engine off. It should be .20-.25 volts. If the base ICP voltage is within specs, replace the IPR; If not, replace the ICP and retest.

So you have to test it twice?

 

[KansasDiesel]

Unplug the ICP & see if it smooths out.

This is from DM'S page...hope it helps

If the concern is a jerky, irratic idle when hot, unplug the ICP sensor (will set a code, causes the PCM to default to a pre-selected IPR duty cycle) to see if it the idle stabilizes. If it does, check the ICP voltage with a scan tool or breakout box at pins 87 to 91 with the sensor plugged in and the key on/engine off. It should be .20-.25 volts. If the base ICP voltage is within specs, replace the IPR; If not, replace the ICP and retest.

If the concern is a jerky, irratic idle when hot, unplug the ICP sensor (will set a code, causes the PCM to default to a pre-selected IPR duty cycle) to see if it the idle stabilizes. If it does, check the ICP voltage with a scan tool or breakout box at pins 87 to 91 with the sensor plugged in and the key on/engine off. It should be .20-.25 volts. If the base ICP voltage is within specs, replace the IPR; If not, replace the ICP and retest.

I shall try this first chance I get! But my problem isn't when it's hot but when it is cold, and only below 40* OAT

 

[KansasDiesel]

I had a chance today to connect my Auto Enginuity program up to her.

I ran the Cylinder Contribution test, the results were:

P0263 Cylinder 1 InjectorContribution/Balance Fault
P0266 Cylinder 2 InjectorContribution/Balance Fault
P0284 Cylinder 8 InjectorContribution/Balance Fault

Can anyone give me some insight on what this means? Do I have an injector problem there? The Buzz test was normal.

 

[action4478]

I had a chance today to connect my Auto Enginuity program up to her.

I ran the Cylinder Contribution test, the results were:

P0263 Cylinder 1 InjectorContribution/Balance Fault
P0266 Cylinder 2 InjectorContribution/Balance Fault
P0284 Cylinder 8 InjectorContribution/Balance Fault

Can anyone give me some insight on what this means? Do I have an injector problem there? The Buzz test was normal.

I'll try & say this only once . If this came on all of a sudden , I would look at the wiring to the injectors. Look for loose or burned connections. I re read the post & I answered to the wrong symptoms. Too much crap going on in my office... Like right now....

 

[strokin'_tatsch]

my truck runs poorly when it's cold as well, but when it warms up everything works great. could that be a problem or is that kinda normal?