Plant drive kit install

[7.3turbodiesel]

Okay thanx. I have a marine bulb pump and thats what i plan on using to purge the wvo lines. If that doesnt work i will stick a compressor air hose in the tank and force the wvo into the lines that way. But if i still have problems getting the air out i will add the bleeder valve like stated above. I plan on putting my vegtherm mega on a seperate toogle switch so i can turn it off when i want. I will just have the buzzer hooked to my tank switch so if i leave it on wvo and I turn off the truck it buzzes. well off to the shop to tinker, i will report my progess later.

 

[7.3turbodiesel]

went for a burn on diesel she works good and the cooliant loop works great. according to the cooliant temp gauge i installed in the starting of the loop it gets up to 180 and i can't even notice a difference in my heater output. well tomorrow i hope to get the rest of the air outta the veg lines and then switch it over to veg. what is the minimum cooliant temp do u guys wait for till u switch to veg? what temp do u guys usually see after the vegtherm ? at what temp should i turn off my vegtherm?

 

[bbressler]

Good job! sounds like everything is going your way...

I wait until the coolant gauge hits 180 before switching to WVO. I've never turned OFF my vegtherm, but if you're stuck in traffic, I'd probably shut it off a bit after 200 (maybe 210 or so). Like I say, as long as your driving and not just idling, you probably won't have any problem with it going too hot...the engine will consume enough to keep it cool.

 

[hheynow]

what is the minimum cooliant temp do u guys wait for till u switch to veg? what temp do u guys usually see after the vegtherm ? at what temp should i turn off my vegtherm?

180*F
170*F-180*F
Like Ben said, but mine is hard wired as well to be on when on vegoil. After two plus years having it hard wired I only thought of putting in a vegtherm switch after a long road trip through the desert this summer when the vegoil temp was climbing to 200*F. I pulled out the fuse and still saw 180*F vegoil temps right before the fuel pump. But this only happened during the hottest days on a very long trip.

 

[7.3turbodiesel]

Well everything is done except for getting air out of my vegoil side before the polluck valve. I wrecked my drill pump today trying to suck it out. Gonna replace it tomorrow and try again. Man that vegtherm gets hot fast, I tried it today and only after a few seconds of having it on i couldnt put my hand near it. I cant remember which one of u guys has a cooliant filter in your system, but i was wondering where in your system do u have it plumbed?

 

[hheynow]

I cant remember which one of u guys has a cooliant filter in your system, but i was wondering where in your system do u have it plumbed?

I guess it's OK to hijack your own thread. I do. The out port is near the t-stat. The filter is mounted on driver's side just above the IDM... ...but has a mini ball valve on either side so there is no drip when I change the filter. Its return is through a tee to the Degas bottle.

Back to your thread. I've been smelling vegoil in the cab recently so I opened the hood and yup my fuel pump is leaking... ...BIG TIME. Pools of vegoil in the valley of death, under the fuel pump and under the fuel bowl. So I'm planning on changing it out this week ALL BY MYSELF (a first ). I still say it's cheaper to stay with the mechanical fuel pump and change it when needed rather than going to an electric system. This pump lasted 13 months +/- 12K vegoil miles. I'm seeing 60-62 psi at idle and over 70 when I rev it.

 

[7.3turbodiesel]

problem solved, bad kink at the tank. well i have most of the air out of the veg lines to the polluck. just letting my truck warm up as we speak and then i plan and going for a drive. i will switch between tanks to get the last little bit of air out, i will do this about 15 times for about 10 seconds each and then crawl under and check the lines and then i will switch it over. well i will report back later tonite.

 

[7.3turbodiesel]

well i did the switching back and forth and then switched it over to svo. it ran okay for 5 minutes and then it started to shutter bad so i switched back to diesel. so today i will crawl back under and just disconnect the return and when i switch it over it will just let the air out that way and then reconnect it back up. hheynow how come u dont upgrade to a electric pump? fix it once and then u probably never have to touch it again.

 

[hheynow]

hheynow how come u dont upgrade to a electric pump? fix it once and then u probably never have to touch it again.

Because I'm over budget in my Mercedes VO conversion and am dumping bucks into it. Because even if I replace it every year for the next 5 years it still is cheaper than a FASS pump plus the FASS pressure regulator. Because I'm determined to prove to myself that I can change a fuel pump.

 

[rickh]

Because I'm over budget in my Mercedes VO conversion and am dumping bucks into it. Because even if I replace it every year for the next 5 years it still is cheaper than a FASS pump plus the FASS pressure regulator. Because I'm determined to prove to myself that I can change a fuel pump.

Changing OBS fuel pump ain't that bad....
You will need an 1 1/4" wench and a torch to heat the boxed end of the wrench to tweak the angle. Makes getting at the banjo nut a little easier.
Also, if you remove the Fuel pressure regulator to clean the screen or replace the O rings, DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN when you put it back together, very easy to crack the FPR housing. Also if you remove the pressure sensor, same there do not over tighten it.

Give the filter bowl a good cleaning while you got it out and check the fuel heater.

When you remove the hold down bolts from the fuel pump, take note if it rises up on its own, if it does not, use a socket and breaker bar and rotate the crank a little to make the pump come up off of seat. When pulling the pump out of the block, go easy and straight up, do not tip it or you may break off the plunger that rides on the cam.
Oh and remove the hold down bolt on the passenger side that holds the wiring harness first or you will be holding the filter bowl in one hand and reaching for a wrench with the other!

I have been watching this thread as I am about to embark on heating the 110 gal aux tank in the 97 so that we can do 100% BD year round. All my switching is already in place think I just need to add a Hot Fox and maybe a temp gauge.
A coolant by pass would be nice as well.
Rick H...