PICS: radar detector mounting

[bushpilot]

I thought CDL's (otr's) couldnt even RUN a detector ?

 

[BamaSixGun]

I thought CDL's (otr's) couldnt even RUN a detector ?

they are illegal in most states to have in a commercial vehicle. i was saying that for instance, crumm is cruising along in AK and gets pulled over and is givin a ticket for speeding, reckless driving, runs a red light, and so on.

that will show up on his MVR and could have an effect on his current employment, or his ability to get another job.

insurance underwriters frown on speeding tickets and accidents, no matter if it happened in a big rig, or a little chevette.

 

[bushpilot]

Heres some pics that gave me the IDEA for pulling apart the
remote DISPLAY.

I looked over the PCB and determined that i could cut off the
MUTE BUTTON & wire/solder in my own REMOTE mute button.

You DONT necessarily need a mute button (can use the remote
button on the MAIN/Valentine One itself).

the most diff. part is DE-SOLDERING and removing the rj11 style
power connection...and of course soldering back on a bare/flat wire
connection after youve removed the factory rj11

 

[platinum01]

Sweet looking install bush. Makes me want to get off the computer and put something on my truck.

 

[bushpilot]

Sweet looking install bush. Makes me want to get off the computer and put something on my truck.

hey youre local...if you want help just let me know.

 

[strokepower]

Sweet looking install bush. Makes me want to get off the computer and put something on my truck.

I second that...but im by no means local

 

[Bolt]

Nice install. I have been toying with the idea of doing the same thing, but mounting it in my dash, above the HVAC vent to the right of the steering wheel. ('05 F250) How did you mount it to the dash, epoxy, etc?

I currently have my V1 mounted right above my rearview mirror. Wired to an upfitter switch. I haven't gotten around to a remote mute button, I was wanting to do something on the back of the steering wheel. If you poke around a bit on the net, you can find a remote mute button wiring scheme that doesn't require resoldering the board of the display, but rather just an RJ-11 plug, a resistor, some wire, and a momentary contact, and it's all plugged into the AUX port of the hardwiring module. But in your case it's different because you hacked up the remote display pretty good. Do you run a remote audio box, or just set it and forget it on the main unit?

Do you think you loose any performance by having the detector in the light blue tint band? Can you still see it pretty good from the front of the vehicle? If I had a remote display, I thought about mounting it between the windshield and the rearview mirror, with only the rear anteanna sticking out past the passenger side of the mirror. But right there it's pretty darn obvious from outside the vehicle.

 

[bushpilot]

Nice install. I have been toying with the idea of doing the same thing, but mounting it in my dash, above the HVAC vent to the right of the steering wheel. ('05 F250) How did you mount it to the dash, epoxy, etc?

Youll have to CAREFULLY pull the dash "cover" and determine if theres
enough room...I wanted mine mounted between the vent & esof
switch, but theres really no room (because of the support that
holds the vent to the dash)

again i realize the 05 is a little different...so youll have to check it
for clearance & depth....and how theyve secured the vents in
the dash.

something to keep in mind while youre looking for a mounting
location is if youll be able to SEE the display while driving...
I found some locations (for me) were blocked by the steering
wheel AND i wanted a location were the remote display wasnt
necessarily visable from the drivers window (out of a THIEF view
and any cop that might walk up)

I currently have my V1 mounted right above my rearview mirror. Wired to an upfitter switch.

yeah thats basically how i have mine mounted & powered...i have
power switches below the steering wheel (out of sight) that control
the feed to the Valentine One (among other things)

I haven't gotten around to a remote mute button, I was wanting to do something on the back of the steering wheel. If you poke around a bit on the net, you can find a remote mute button wiring scheme that doesn't require resoldering the board of the display, but rather just an RJ-11 plug, a resistor, some wire, and a momentary contact, and it's all plugged into the AUX port of the hardwiring module.

right ive seen those (radardetector.net) BUT you have to realize
if you mount a mute button on the BACK of the steering wheel the
wires gonna get TWISTED when turning the wheel...

i dont think youll be able to mount a mute switch on the turn sig.
stalk (like the audi guys do) cause ours turn signal stalk
MOVES (flashes)...i dont think you wanna be flashing your lights
everytime you hit mute (in most states flashing your headlights
is considered AGRESSIVE DRIVING)

personally when i started this project i was more interested in
mounting a switch some place where i didnt have to REACH (i
didnt get this fat reaching for switches)

But in your case it's different because you hacked up the remote display pretty good. Do you run a remote audio box, or just set it and forget it on the main unit?

i had to REDUCE (hack) the size of the remote display to get it to
FIT in the dash....i could have gone w/ an rj11 style mute button
but i had the soldering iron out and i was right there (on the pcb)
soldering the new power leads anyway.

In the beginning of this project i was looking to reduce the
size of the remote display (1st by removing it from the OE box).
Even outta the box i had depth issues and i learned that i would
have to remove the power connection (to reduce the depth even
more)...and then the mute button had to go so i could fit it
in about the only good location i could find.

I dont run a remote audio box (i own 'em) but dont much see the
need for it...as you say i basically set it (3/4 volume) and forget it.

Do you think you loose any performance by having the detector in the light blue tint band?

i havent noticed a drop in performance..and honestly i prefer this location
since its outta sight.

I no longer have the OE/Factory windshield (i took a rock chip) and i was
kinda glad to get rid of the silkscreened "3rd visor" that said superduty
on it...the silkscreen prevented me from mounting the V1 via the suction
cup mount...so when it came time to replace it i saved myself a few
bucks and went for a more "conventional" windshield.

Can you still see it pretty good from the front of the vehicle?

the detector has a good view forward...you pretty much have to
KNOW what youre looking for in order to see the V1 from
the FRONT (outside)

I was recently broken into...(before i had the V1 remote display
mounted IN the dash)...the remote display was in the cubby...
the thieves got my radio but they apparently never saw the
V1 (on the windshield) or the remote display...

I now have an alarm...and i REMOVE the radio face/head unit
EVERYTIME i park (its a royal pain in the arse...but i do it)...i figure
between the blinking light/alarm and the lack of radio theyll probably
walk past me and get someone else.

If I had a remote display, I thought about mounting it between the windshield and the rearview mirror, with only the rear anteanna sticking out past the passenger side of the mirror. But right there it's pretty darn obvious from outside the vehicle.

Right...AND originally i lived in virginia (where detectors are FINANCIALLY
frowned upon I expect to continue to make runs back to virginia
and that has been a large "motivator" in where i mounted every thing.

the cubby hole is a pretty good location...although low in the dash...it
is outta view from cops (and thieves)...and I dont want anyone getting
a free ride (or following me) because they can see my detector...either
by the cord(s) or the display at night...so even in texas i have ALWAYS
used the remote display

 

[Bolt]

Thanks for the great post. The cubby hole for me isn't an option right now as I have my upfitters mounted there. But perhaps when I get some more of my electrical mods done, I might scrap the upfitters, and use the wiring harness from them to Carlings, and then I could put the display in the cubby hole.

Yeah, I know the wheel twists, but somehow, if you wrap the wire right, it might work. Using some telephone cord, but I'll have to experiment. How do the horn and cruise wires get to the wheel? Or maybe I need to mount a switch on the steering column surround, but that's not real easy to push.

How does/did the mute button on the remote display work? Did it act as momentary, or was pushed in muted and pushed out loud? Sometimes, I wish V1 just had an auto mute.

Have you seen the displays that people resolder colored LED's into? (For L, Ka, K, and X indications). Did you do this to yours too or do you not find that to be an issue?

 

[bushpilot]

How do the horn and cruise wires get to the wheel? Or maybe I need to mount a switch on the steering column surround, but that's not real easy to push.

contact ring or clock spring type connection i think.

you could do it w/ a wire but the SLACK required is gonna
be an issue i think...allowing ENOUGH slack for a wheel to wheel
LOCK is gonna mean youve got SLOP (wire) hanging when the
wheel is STRAIGHT.

even w/ a small COILED (stretch-able) wire i think its gonna be a
potential TANGLE issue.

How does/did the mute button on the remote display work? Did it act as momentary, or was pushed in muted and pushed out loud? Sometimes, I wish V1 just had an auto mute.

its a momentary on "button" too...they do have an auto mute
and they have programable mute levels...reduced or NO sound til
a certain level is reached.

too much danger in AUTO muting, if you ask me...hell ive been busted
cause i FORGET to turn it ON...

Have you seen the displays that people resolder colored LED's into? (For L, Ka, K, and X indications). Did you do this to yours too or do you not find that to be an issue?

yeah ive seen 'em (apparently were reading the same forums)
but too damm much time/work to do...i havent found that the LEDs
are an issue...the V1 has an auto dimmer & to me BRIGHTER LEDs
kinda defeats the purpose of auto dim...

if you cant see the LEDs as it is then TURN it up...once you kinda
confirm (or believe) the threat/bogey is real (via visual display)
you pretty much drive by the sound of the V1 anyway.