oil in fuel... injectors... O-rings

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i have oil in my fuel filter. trucks been sluggish. pulled the injectors but all the external O-rings look ok. i dont see any obvious signs of deteriorating or damage. anyone have a faulty ring with no visible signs that was reminded with new o-rings?

injector nozzles have slight build up around holes. these holes are so tiny i cannot see if they are plugged. i would like to know if i am better off just replacing the injectors, if i can just install new nozzles.... or reuse my old ones. i dont want to dump a bunch of money into this if it wont solve the problem. how can i test my injectors? i'm over 200k miles.

 

[DaveBen]

You can't test your nozzles without a flow bench. You need a high pressure oil source and all of the junk to hook it up to the injector. Then you need a way to fire the injector to see the flow pattern. Take them to an injection shop.

Dave

 

[BJS]

there are internal o-rings that also provide the same seal as the external ones. Given the physical age and the number of miles you may simply need to rebuild/upgrade your injectors.

In my opinion spending the money to test them at this point is honestly a waste especially if your cost is more than around $20/injector. You are approaching if not past the "normal" life span of an injector and any poor maintenance in the past by previous owners will shorten the life of the injectors.

At this point if you do find one or two that are bad you really do not want to replace those with fresh injectors because it will impact how the truck runs because one/two injector(s) will be notably stronger than the rest and creating more power for those cylinders. Not to mention some other logical aspects here, let's assume for a minute that you did pay someone to bench test all of your injectors and it came back that you have 2 broken nozzles, and nothing else is broken, but do show signs of the mileage on the injectors. Do you simply replace the two nozzles for a wild guess of $50/injector. (running total of $260) or while you are in those injectors should you go ahead and rebuild them.

Or you bite the bullet now drop the 900ish + whatever parts are required (no extra labor)on rebuilt injectors that will be good for another 200k and leave the worries behind you.

Here's a quote from Rosewood diesel aka DIY injectors

In addition to the Armature and Poppet clearances, the Plunger & Barrels and Nozzles are the other hard parts that typically wear out. It is not possible for the average mechanic to visually inspect the Nozzles for wear, other than seeing of all 7 holes are cleaned out and flowing fuel. The Plunger & Barrels can become scored or damaged which is visible only upon injector disassembly. If your Power Stroke is approaching the 200,000 mile mark and beyond, you can at least count on several nozzles needing replaced, possibly a Plunger & Barrel or 2, along with some machining to restore some clearances. The Plunger & Barrels and Nozzle's condition is dependant upon the quality of fuel that was run through them. There is a point, however, when the purchase of brand new injectors is more cost effective than repairing your old injectors.

 

[arrowstrap]

alright, that's what i needed... a good shove in the right direction. i will look into rebuilt injectors... possibly stage 1's if i can.

 

[arrowstrap]

injector help!

i am overwhelmed by all the possibilities and costs.

i have 96 f350 208k miles. lacking power, mostly noticeable in low RPM's truck blows white smoke till warmed up. none after it's running temp. the exhaust stinks of fuel and burns eyes and nose. starts right up and idles great. oil on fuel filter. i assume its injectors.

i am pretty sure i want stage 1's to pep it up yet save my tranny. i have a superchip, k&n intake and upgraded exhaust and torque converter.

my injector nozzles have build up on them and that is the extent of what i know as i have not disassembled them.

i dont know if i should worry about the mileage i will get out of a reman injector vs a new injector. also remans are dependent upon condition of cores and i've no idea if i need nozzles, P&B's or anything.

i was hoping someone could share some education and help me to make a decision. the costs are so different. i want what is going to be good for my truck but i dont want to waste my money either.

rosewood offers new stage 1's for $1700.
rebuilds depend on core condition. Jim cant build me a set till mid june and my injectors are pulled now.

Swamps wants $1050 + rebuild core parts

if rebuilds end up costing me $1500, i'm better off buying new.

chime in here and set me straight guys!

 

[DaveBen]

Get rid of the K&N filter. It does not filter very well. You will tear up your turbo if you don't dump the K&N.

Dave

 

[BJS]

ditto on getting rid of the K&N look in to the DIY tymar type filter

Another option for you is Beans I'm running his stage 1 injectors and have had no problems in the 2 years or so that they've been in there. Excellent customer service and prompt availability.

I can say that when I did mine in a total of 16 injectors (extra set from a JY from a fleet truck) I had 3 poppet valves & 2 P&B assemblies and no nozzles that were broken.

If you try to go the reman route now and you ship them out and there is a significant cost in parts you can always have them shipped back to you with a set of new injectors. I seriously doubt that this will be a problem.

 

[dommertl]

I to am running Bean's Stage 1 injectors and love them. I pulled them and shipped to him and got them back in 4 days. I don't have the rebuild cost in front of me but can get the info to you tomorrow is so desired. I also changed the complete exhaust plus down pipe, new filter and intake system, his 6 position chip and a 3 gauge pillar cluster w/ gauges.. I have a total of app $2200.00 in it for all this and did the work myself.

Les

 

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Awaiting proper GP fitting to get more accurate compression reading before i build on. my home made fitting i could only thread a couple turns into the motor and i only got a compression reading of 360 - 370# on all 8. hope i'll get better reading with a better fitting adaptor.