Norcal250
Gimp member
Plastic (DM) vs. Brass (BCDP) theres why the prices are different
Oh boy.....I screwed myself!
- Thread starter SDPS
- Start date
thanks guys! I will probably just go to The Home Depot, or Ace and pick up some brass two piece's. I will not shop at Diesel Manor!! Long story short there cutomer service sucks the big one. Thanks for all the links, and pictures anyways guys! I will let you all know tonight how it went.
Thanks
Thanks
whatabudro
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You don't have to use the T if you don't wan't to. You could do the AIH delete while you are under the hood and tap the plug for 1/8NPT. The instructions for the AIH delete are in my signiture.
Most gauges do not come with all the wiring required. You will need to supply + and - wires to electrical gauges. You will also need to supply the sending unit wire for the trans temp gauge. Next you will also need to supply the lighting wire to the gauges. This should be tapped into the instrument cluster circuit so the the gauges will dim with the dash IMO.
Most gauges do not come with all the wiring required. You will need to supply + and - wires to electrical gauges. You will also need to supply the sending unit wire for the trans temp gauge. Next you will also need to supply the lighting wire to the gauges. This should be tapped into the instrument cluster circuit so the the gauges will dim with the dash IMO.
95_stroker
Jefe
whatabudro said:
Mine did, heck,mine came with every last piece needed down to butt connectors, splice connectors and all the wire needed to get from gauge pod tp fuse panel. Tranny sender had enough shims (had extra actually) in kit to situate it properly in test port. Boost came with TEE and way extra tubing. I had to go to the hardware store and buy a tap to thread the hole for the pyro thermo couple. I musta had a really really good vendor.
whatabudro
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Note** I have only installed Autometer gauges at this point.
The pyro comes with pyro leads and probe but there is no wire provided for other electrical connections
The trans temp comes with sending unit and reducing bushings but no wiring to connect to the vehicle
The Boost comes with 1/8" line and compression fittings but I can't remember if it comes with a "T" because every vehicle has different size lines so they let you provide that IIRC.
The same goes for all 7 autometer gauges in my Chevy II.
I'm installing Isspro or DiProcol (can't remember what he bought) gauges tomorrow so I will have experience with the soon.-popcorn
The pyro comes with pyro leads and probe but there is no wire provided for other electrical connections
The trans temp comes with sending unit and reducing bushings but no wiring to connect to the vehicle
The Boost comes with 1/8" line and compression fittings but I can't remember if it comes with a "T" because every vehicle has different size lines so they let you provide that IIRC.
The same goes for all 7 autometer gauges in my Chevy II.
I'm installing Isspro or DiProcol (can't remember what he bought) gauges tomorrow so I will have experience with the soon.-popcorn
whatabudro
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Install went OK. They were ISSPR gauges. They are a little different setup than autometer.
PYRO- Drilled and tapped exhaust manifold to 1/4NPT (autometer 1/8NPT) wiring and probe purchased separately. It uses some sort of box that controls everything unlike the autometer.
BOOST- had to purchase separate install kit that included brass fittings and tubing. Does not require + or - connection.
TRANNY- removed plug from side of transmission next to shift cable bracket. This gauge also uses a box to control things unlike the autometer? Power wires + and - were not included with this setup, provided by me. The sending unit connects to the box via two wires and a quick connector. It was not long enough to reach the transmission requiring splices.-mad
None of the gauges came with wiring to connect lighting. I used a black- and a brown+ to do this. I connected the black to the frame of the dash. Then after verifying voltage change with dimmer switch I connected the brown to the blue w/pink tracer at the headlight switch. This allows the gauges to dim when the dash lights dim.
I connected the - to of both gauge control boxes to the same dash frame point. Then I verified voltage with key to a customer access wire (white with blue tracer) and connected it to the + of both gauge control boxes.
The boost gauge was connected to the intake via a drilled and tapped AIH delete plug.
PYRO- Drilled and tapped exhaust manifold to 1/4NPT (autometer 1/8NPT) wiring and probe purchased separately. It uses some sort of box that controls everything unlike the autometer.
BOOST- had to purchase separate install kit that included brass fittings and tubing. Does not require + or - connection.
TRANNY- removed plug from side of transmission next to shift cable bracket. This gauge also uses a box to control things unlike the autometer? Power wires + and - were not included with this setup, provided by me. The sending unit connects to the box via two wires and a quick connector. It was not long enough to reach the transmission requiring splices.-mad
None of the gauges came with wiring to connect lighting. I used a black- and a brown+ to do this. I connected the black to the frame of the dash. Then after verifying voltage change with dimmer switch I connected the brown to the blue w/pink tracer at the headlight switch. This allows the gauges to dim when the dash lights dim.
I connected the - to of both gauge control boxes to the same dash frame point. Then I verified voltage with key to a customer access wire (white with blue tracer) and connected it to the + of both gauge control boxes.
The boost gauge was connected to the intake via a drilled and tapped AIH delete plug.
whatabudro
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SDPS said:
16-18 gauge will be fine
rgdillon
*
95_stroker said:
Mine did also - even came with extra parts on the boost gauge so I had a choice of install. Only thing I really needed was a little longer wire to the tranny temp sender.
Ron
