hheynow
Señor Aceite de Soja
When I first started, I switch to my heated side, (coolant was still cold) and fuel temp got up to 160. So, I'm sure my Vegtherm is working.
I wait for my coolant to reach 180* minimum before I switch to vegoil tank. You can verify that the vegtherm is on when you come to a stop light and the alternator needle reads <12v. It rebounds to 14v once you start moving again. I noticed that vegoil temps rise when driving stop-n-go in traffic or city driving. I've not seen over 195*F on vegoil but since I re-insulated my hot out coolant loop and fuel lines I expect to see 200+ degrees this summer. If your FPHE is after your Pollak valve like mine is you run both tanks hot/warm. My rear tank gets to between 140*-160* by the FPHE alone. If your temps are still too hot you can remove the fuse on the vegtherm. Better yet, use the relay with an illuminated dash switch and make it optional. Mine's hooked up so when driving on the front tank it's always on. The relay gets the power from a terminal on the Pollak. Getting back to de-watering. From my experience you will go through vegoil filters faster with wet oil than with sediment laden oil. The filter media swells with water faster than it gets filled up with particles. And you know how expensive the filters are, right? Not to mention who wants water in their fuel anyway.
Glad your system is running so hot.
One final question. Are you running B100 in your vegoil tank right now? That could be why your vegoil temps are so high. BioD heats up faster and hotter than WPO.
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