Methanol Injection?

[CSIPSD]

Water-meth is great, as long as you keep it sane ! I run a 80-20 mix in the winter (so it doesn't freeze) and just straight water in the summer. When pulling I CAN NOT push the EGT's over 1200, so long as the boost is above 15# and the waters spraying!

It's not and should never be thought of as a HP increaser , that's were people get in trouble, it is an air cooler that as a side benifit gives a slight HP boost!

People start experamenting and bang !

 

[Shawnrans]

Mix it conservatively, like 65/35 H2o to Methanol, and you should
be okay. Provided your timing is correct. These additions all require
that the variables be in order!

If you are looking for safer gains you may want to explore some
different types of mods. Banks is a bit on the conservative side
to say the least, and very spendy to boot.

 

[96EDGEpsd]

what kinda of HP gains are we talkin here?? is any significantly noticable increases???....just wonderin..

 

[CSIPSD]

With 40% on the dyno, I saw about 40-50hp...

 

[PSD02]

Ok I need to be brought up to speed. What is a PMR? I am guessing that there is a difference in the 7.3 from 1994 to 2002?

What would you guys suggest for rods, block, heads, ect. This is my first diesel, and trust me I will never buy gasoline ( I even hate saying that word,) again. This turn key power is unreal and this is coming from a former drag racer.

My plan is to build a 7.3 for some serious H.P. and Torque, then add all the goodies like nitros, meth/h2o, propane, and anything else, but that being said I want to do this to build serious power with out going kaboom.

At this time I am running a 02 7.3 with an intake, 4" exhaust all the way out, and a bullydog tuner. It seems obvious to me that I need to talk to this obvious genius that almost everyone on this forum with a 7.3 to get a chip.

This web site and all its members rocks as well as the diesel world.
Thanks again for any help.

 

[Hoss 350]

Ok I need to be brought up to speed. What is a PMR?

Powedered Metal Rod. Conn rods in mid '01 (or so) and up PSD's are made out of this material. There is nothing wrong with a powdered metal rod when the rod is designed to be powedered metal, but the PMRs in the 7.3 were made to be exactly like the old forged rods that they replaced, in dimension and reinforcement. As an old drag racer, i'm sure you know that a forged rod and a powdered metal rod need to be made differently. Apparently, international didn't, so their PMRs had weak spots and were prone to failure at 375-400 horsepower or more. If you want big power out of your '02, you'll need to swap rods or risk a catastrophic failure...

I am guessing that there is a difference in the 7.3 from 1994 to 2002?

Yes, among other things, the '94 had stronger forged rods, instead of PMRs. There are a bunch of other things, fuel system, injectors, turbo, etc that are different, but I don't think that is what ou were asking, so....

What would you guys suggest for rods,

Depends on HP. There are nifty billet rods that are available that will hold as much horsepower as these engines can make. Or, you can swap in some stock forged rods that are good to 475 to 500 HP, from what I've been told.

block

The stock block is strong enough to hold as much horsepower as a 7.3 can make. Leave it alone.

heads

Stock is fine. Headgaskets are good to 45 psi or so before they pop.

ect.

Man, etc leaves a lot left to talk about. Start a new thread in teh performance sectionand ask this question. i don't want to hijack this thread too much.

This is my first diesel, and trust me I will never buy gasoline ( I even hate saying that word,) again.

My plan is to build a 7.3 for some serious H.P. and Torque, then add all the goodies like nitros, meth/h2o, propane, and anything else, but that being said I want to do this to build serious power with out going kaboom.

Like I said, copy this over to a new post in teh performance section, adn then sit back and soak up the advice...

 

[Mark Craig]

superduty250,

We have sold a lot of the Snow Water methanol systems and they are pretty much as safe as you can get, IF and I mean IF you use it as designed. Run 50/50 water/meth or any of the washer fluids up to 40 degree minus and you should be OK. You'll get and average of 70 HP and 300 degrees cooler EGT's out of it.

It's great for HEAVY towers and such as well.

Mark @ DPPI

 

[SnowTech.3]

Water-methanol injection is actually very, very safe. How else can you make more hp & Torque, increase mileage, and get significantly lower EGTs (200-250deg F)?

There can be problems, as mentioned. If you use more than 50% methanol (which we don't recommend), you can have diesel knock. We have dynoed with 70% meth 30% water for testing and had no problems, but we did have a customer with 3 stacked controllers who had some knock running 50/50. His timing was so advanced it isn't even funny. That moderation advice is very wise, and this guy wasn't about to listen to it.

If you run propane AND water-methanol together you are injecting a whole lot of easily combustible fuel, and you will run that diesel knock risk again. We have found if you keep the methanol down to 25% in the water-meth mix, you can use it with propane just fine.

Unlike propane, if you get the quantities totally wrong - meaning you way over inject fluid, you won't hurt a thing. You quench the flame and basically get an ignition miss, but it doesn't hurt a thing. With propane, if it goes wrong, your engine goes boom.

The water actually does lower the peak CP's, but extends them out longer (pushes on the piston for a longer physical time) so the mix of water & methanol work great together to keep CPs very safe while making more power and burning more of the diesel instead of sending it out the pipe.

My last comment is that if your PMR are only good to "XXX" hp and you go over that, it isn't the programmer or the exhaust or the turbo or the water-methanol that broke the rods - even though the water-methanol might get blamed because it was the last thing added. What broke the rods was simply too much power production for a given rod.

 

[CSIPSD]

superduty250,

We have sold a lot of the Snow Water methanol systems and they are pretty much as safe as you can get, IF and I mean IF you use it as designed. Run 50/50 water/meth or any of the washer fluids up to 40 degree minus and you should be OK. You'll get and average of 70 HP and 300 degrees cooler EGT's out of it.

It's great for HEAVY towers and such as well.

Mark @ DPPI

Mark and anyone else, I stopped running WWF after finding out what else is in it other then just meth, there are soaps and sudsing agents, dyes and other chemicals. I just didnt like the idea of sending all that into the motor... I have switched to pure meth and water. Meth is avalable at any fuel distrubuter or race shops for about $3-$4 a gal

 

[96EDGEpsd]

well now that we have all the facts, ive been lookin around everwhere and found one gas station that carries methanol, and they are all out..(it was a strange sunoco) but anyway does anyone know where i can get some?!!!!