Tail_Gunner
CRJ & ERJ A&P Mech.
Tbar said:I tried removing the studs.........they were tighter than dicks hat band.
Beat the crap out of a box end wrench trying to break them loose.
Tbar
Try heating the hub around the stud with a torch.
Lost A Front Wheel Bearing........!!!
- Thread starter Tbar
- Start date
Try heating the hub around the stud with a torch.
dpantazis
#12
Thawing frozen nuts and studs
Ok, before I start, those who are thinking naughty thoughts, STOP IT!
(This has gotten too long as I write, so forgive the longwinded-ness.)
The bestest, surest fire way I hve ever found about loosening nasty, rusty hardware is with a candle. It takes a bit of time, and usually works on the 2nd or 3rd try. I learned this form a grizzled, old timey mechanic who was a wiz on Model A's and T's. I was a kid and he was a wirey, leathery old guy.
I will use PB, Kroil, Liquid Wrench too, but after a good soaking, if it won;t budge, the candle does the job. Candles are usually around unlike the can of blaster and won't break the bank. when you use a lot of it. Especially on diesels, where we have lots of sooty type rust, the parrafin works well. Seems to work well on brake bolts too, the fine break dusts seem to work their way into the threads and rust matrix.
Heat the part hot enough to melt the wax, but not so hot that you make it glow. Somewhere around 200-250 degrees TOPS. This temp also won;t affect he temper of hardned parts either. (it will, but 250-300 degree range won;t anneal them) Slow even heat with a propane torch is safe. Remove the torch and the open flame. Heat gun is good too. The juice you already sprayed in there will smoke and stink.
While the part is nice and hot, take a regular wax candle and jam it at the stud part of the threads till it starts to melt and run. The molten parrafin will wick itself into the threads and under the bits of rust. Keep melting the wax until it looks like its full or it has cooled down. Its a judgement thing. Too hot, and you can flash fire the wax. You don;t want it that hot. Better not hot enough than too hot.
stolen from a candle making site-"Never have the wax in direct contact with the heat source. Wax is like grease, as it has a flash point. In general, wax has a flash point of 395 degrees. A flash point is the point where the wax is so hot that it burst into flames all by itself. So I say "IN GENERAL" the flash point of wax is 300 degrees. I tell everyone - if wax is smoking, it is too hot. The vapors produced are extremely flammable...
Try the wrench. If it won;t budge, heat again and rewax. Sometimes you have to wait for it to cool down a bit to handle the part. That's ok.
If you heat it up too hot, the wax will catch fire! The paraffin will smoke if its too hot! It will take time, so be patient. Patience is the key here. At some point you will get frustated and want to just blowtorch the while thing. Resit the remptation. Burning praffin is not an easy fire to put out. Drink a frosty one instead. Take a walk, pet the dog, etc...
Dining room candles that are mostly burnt and sitting in the drawer work well, as do half burnt birthday cake candles for small things. SWMBO won't mind you swiping half burnt candles cus then she can put up new 'pretty' ones.
The best way I can describe my observations on why this works is two fold- the cooling affect of the wax on the center threaded part of the assembly and the slow, low heating and cooling of the threads that loosens the rust on the threads. The wax as well is a solid lubricant, so once it cools things down, it will stay put and still act as a lube when the other oil types will run out. Second, as you heat and liquify the wax, some washing affect of the molten parrafin will remove some of the smaller rust.
The method has NEVER failed me. It WILL take time to work. Like I said, 2-3, even 4, 5, or 6 times to make work. Take your time and anjoy a frosty beverage.
I have tried it with PB blaster and Liquid Wrench and the like but the aerosol based solvents flash away, smoke too much and stink up the place. The wax stays put until you heat it up. The heating and cooling cylces help break up the rust. The capillary action puts the wax where it needs to be and has more surface tension to wick.
Ok, before I start, those who are thinking naughty thoughts, STOP IT!
(This has gotten too long as I write, so forgive the longwinded-ness.)
The bestest, surest fire way I hve ever found about loosening nasty, rusty hardware is with a candle. It takes a bit of time, and usually works on the 2nd or 3rd try. I learned this form a grizzled, old timey mechanic who was a wiz on Model A's and T's. I was a kid and he was a wirey, leathery old guy.
I will use PB, Kroil, Liquid Wrench too, but after a good soaking, if it won;t budge, the candle does the job. Candles are usually around unlike the can of blaster and won't break the bank. when you use a lot of it. Especially on diesels, where we have lots of sooty type rust, the parrafin works well. Seems to work well on brake bolts too, the fine break dusts seem to work their way into the threads and rust matrix.
Heat the part hot enough to melt the wax, but not so hot that you make it glow. Somewhere around 200-250 degrees TOPS. This temp also won;t affect he temper of hardned parts either. (it will, but 250-300 degree range won;t anneal them) Slow even heat with a propane torch is safe. Remove the torch and the open flame. Heat gun is good too. The juice you already sprayed in there will smoke and stink.
While the part is nice and hot, take a regular wax candle and jam it at the stud part of the threads till it starts to melt and run. The molten parrafin will wick itself into the threads and under the bits of rust. Keep melting the wax until it looks like its full or it has cooled down. Its a judgement thing. Too hot, and you can flash fire the wax. You don;t want it that hot. Better not hot enough than too hot.
stolen from a candle making site-"Never have the wax in direct contact with the heat source. Wax is like grease, as it has a flash point. In general, wax has a flash point of 395 degrees. A flash point is the point where the wax is so hot that it burst into flames all by itself. So I say "IN GENERAL" the flash point of wax is 300 degrees. I tell everyone - if wax is smoking, it is too hot. The vapors produced are extremely flammable...
Try the wrench. If it won;t budge, heat again and rewax. Sometimes you have to wait for it to cool down a bit to handle the part. That's ok.
If you heat it up too hot, the wax will catch fire! The paraffin will smoke if its too hot! It will take time, so be patient. Patience is the key here. At some point you will get frustated and want to just blowtorch the while thing. Resit the remptation. Burning praffin is not an easy fire to put out. Drink a frosty one instead. Take a walk, pet the dog, etc...
Dining room candles that are mostly burnt and sitting in the drawer work well, as do half burnt birthday cake candles for small things. SWMBO won't mind you swiping half burnt candles cus then she can put up new 'pretty' ones.
The best way I can describe my observations on why this works is two fold- the cooling affect of the wax on the center threaded part of the assembly and the slow, low heating and cooling of the threads that loosens the rust on the threads. The wax as well is a solid lubricant, so once it cools things down, it will stay put and still act as a lube when the other oil types will run out. Second, as you heat and liquify the wax, some washing affect of the molten parrafin will remove some of the smaller rust.
The method has NEVER failed me. It WILL take time to work. Like I said, 2-3, even 4, 5, or 6 times to make work. Take your time and anjoy a frosty beverage.
I have tried it with PB blaster and Liquid Wrench and the like but the aerosol based solvents flash away, smoke too much and stink up the place. The wax stays put until you heat it up. The heating and cooling cylces help break up the rust. The capillary action puts the wax where it needs to be and has more surface tension to wick.